HOLDING YOUR AWE IN THEIR CLAWS : A CROW BROOCH BY ILGIZ

THE ART OF JEWELRY BEYOND DESIGN AND PERFECTION
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Illustration by Inkycubans

What makes art Art?

Resistance to mass production? An emotional trigger? Originality? The artist’s identity?

Sometimes I catch myself thinking: if some of the talented artists had not become jewelry designers, what would they be doing instead? They would still be talented, successful and probably happy. The only ones to lose would be us—their admirers, followers and collectors who would miss out on exquisite pieces of this extraordinary, ancient and ever modern art.

With its laconic outline, absence of redundant, decorative details, classic, contrasting colors, elaborate composition of simple geometric shapes, and a strong, architectural silhouette that is both clean and clear, this enameled brooch—the dramatic and dynamic portrayal of a black and a white crow, holding a ruby-red stone in its talons—is not exactly typical for Ilgiz. Yet, it is a splendid reflection of all that he stands for: an artistic predilection for Art Nouveau, immaculate mastery of enameling, and the global idea behind art, plus the delicate conglomerate of a creator’s idea and the beholder’s profound emotional response.

The pieces by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, a miracle worker from Tatarstan, a two-time winner—Champion of the Champions—of the International Jewellery Design Excellence Awards, are admired by art aficionados and craved by both private collectors and gallerists in Russia and around the globe.

No wonder.

The chance of finding such an ingenious expert in enameling is remote, and yet, the artist did not study jewelry professionally: his knowledge and mastery were earned independently, through passion and ambition, perfectionism and perseverance, by trial and error.

Aiming to surpass himself with every new piece, he studied many different enameling techniques—Japanese, French, English, Russian—and developed his own signature, unique methods, including, but not limited to, the firing of enamel at 950℃, rather than the ‘classic’ 700–800℃, which allows him to achieve a total fusion of glass with the golden surface, as well as a one-millimeter-thick plique-à-jour enamel.

Ilgiz believes that the art of jewelry stands at the confluence of all art forms and technologies. A jeweler must know the basics of drawing, painting, sculpture, perspective, architecture, chemistry, physics and mathematics. He must not be afraid to dirty his hands. He needs to make the metal submit to his rules—and be able to put it all together - to create the ultimate masterpiece.

Aiming at perfection, he can redo a piece of jewelry again and again until he gets the desired effect: color gradations and nuances in the enameled petals of a flower or the feathers of a crow’s wings, which correspond both to the reality and to his creative idea.

Ilgiz’s pieces are so immaculate that they do not have a flip side: the back of every pair of earrings, necklace, brooch or ring is on a par with the front side.

Besides, Ilgiz rarely works ‘around the stone’; rather, he builds the stones, whether precious or not, around the idea to achieve the maximum embodiment of his brainchild.

The crows from the brooch are facing opposite directions, each holding a symbolic stone in their talons. What does the white crow see in our past? Why is the black crow looking at our future?

Despite the menacing juxtaposition of colors, both crows look contemplative and calm. They mean no threat.

These pieces by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov are for genuine art connoisseurs, valuing not just the name of the brand and value of materials, but also the artistry, aesthetics and creativity.

A timeless and priceless investment, if you’re considering one.

#POMELLATOFORWOMEN : A LUXURY JEWELRY BRAND RAISING AWARENESS OF VIOLENCE AGAINST WOMEN

AT A TIME OF GLOBAL LOCKDOWNS, POMELLATO SPEAKS OUT ON BEHALF OF WOMEN AND GIRLS WHO HAVE OR WHO MAY BECOME VICTIMS OF DOMESTIC ABUSE
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Hidden from public view, home is where we feel safe to be ourselves. But not for everyone. Under the cover of Covid-19, there has been a huge surge in domestic abuse. Terrible things have been happening behind closed doors, sealed even more tightly during these past few months because of mass lockdowns and quarantines.

Despite widespread and powerfully promoted gender equality, in many spheres of modern life women remain precariously vulnerable and unprotected.

For this reason, on November 25 – International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women – luxury jewelry brand Pomellato launched a social media and video campaign to raise awareness on domestic abuse.

Pomellato’s initiative is a tremendous breakthrough for luxury brands. Conceptually distant from the real world, submerged deep into the divine microcosm of art, design and unsoiled, supermundane beauty, they often appear to be dramatically detached from the facts of life.

And yet, who to support women and raise awareness of the hot-button gender issues better than a brand that stands for women, their freedom and independence.

With that in mind, in 2017 Pomellato founded the platform #PomellatoForWomen to promote gender equality and inclusivity.

And it shows no sign of letting up. Not until abuse and violence against women has stopped.

On MK Nuvola (Italian for ‘cloud’) rings, timeless beauty by Pomellato. Let us hope that the beautiful clouds stay in artistic realm – and we soon see the bright sun above our heads in real life…

LIKE A PHOENIX THEY RISE: FREDERIC MALLE PERFUME AND NAK ARMSTRONG’S EARRINGS

A SEDUCTIVE RETRO-VIBE SMELL THAT PLAYS IN TUNE WITH GEOMETRIC PINK OPAL EARPIECES
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It’s funny how memory sometimes plays games with our senses. A tone of voice, a smell, the perception of colors come together and build a multifaceted image in our heads. Sometimes we don’t even understand the reasons behind this, or remember why.

I was nudged to smell the Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose perfume by my seven-year old daughter, who was genuinely in love with it. To be honest, I was reluctant even to try it: the name, the notes, the very concept did not speak to me. But once I gave it a go, in a flash I knew: That’s my A.! This smell is all about her!   Lipstick Rose—a love-it-or-leave-it aromatic concoction of grapefruit and violet, sweet rose, iris and raspberry, sensuous and fluffy vanilla and white musk—was developed by one of Frederic Malle’s legendary perfumers, Ralf Schwieger, famous for his ability to create intellectual and intuitive perfumes with surprising personalities.

It’s a perfume that makes everyone sense something different. A time travel machine, for some, taking you back to your childhood home, secretly poking around the taboo contents of your mother’s dressing table, trying on her crimson red lipstick, playing at being a grown-up woman for the first time. The dressing room of a 50’s pin-up girl, with, luxuriant, shiny, dark hair, ruby-red lips, smouldering gaze and a killer smile. A go-to office perfume: indulgently sweet, dressy and sexy, but with a demure hint of ‘stay away’ attitude. The delicious allure of the divine Marilyn Monroe. The smell of semi-dark theatres. The ‘big girl’ perfume of real Divas, with a sense of humor and touch of modern irony. The gourmand, bottled essence of the X chromosome.

To balance its sweet, seductive force, I picked up a geometric, sophisticated creation by the extremely talented award-winning designer Nak Armstrong – his Nakard Phoenix sterling silver and opal earrings.   At the core of their modern mobile-like silhouette are the mosaic, repetitive, smooth pale pink cells, cascading down your earlobes and gently swaying with your every step—the pure manifestation of beauty and intellect, stripped of pomposity and cliché.

The modern retro Lipstick Rose smell makes its glorious return and complements with elegance the Phoenix earrings and the femininity of the present-day, ultimate woman.

THE JEWELRY ICON

A PEEK INTO THE SILKY SECRETS OF A LADY’S BOUDOIR IN LYDIA COURTEILLE’S COLLECTION LA VIE EN ROSE

GENTLE HUES OF POWDERY PINK, ENVELOPED IN LACES, RIBBONS AND REFINED MYSTERY
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Illustration by Ellie Rahim

Et dès que je l’aperçois
Alors je sens en moi
Mon cœur qui bat

Edith Piaf, La Vie En Rose

The meaning of those words by the legendary singer Edit Piaf—‘And when I see him, inside I feel my heart pounding’—applies to every piece by the avant-garde Parisian jeweler Lydia Courteille.

Each of Lydia’s masterpieces is looking for that one and only person, the perfect fit for her surreal creations, someone who will not need to look and think twice before making up their mind and choosing them.

It has to be love at first sight…

This seductive collection, La Vie en Rose, is a tribute to the glamour, tantalizing charm and romanticism of Paris.

The powdery pink of morganites is complemented by delicate lacing and bows, adding a subtle touch like exquisite lingerie, evoking the delightful and fresh smell of a rose flower, inviting you to draw closer, open up to your senses and enjoy the sight of both the jewels and the wearer.

Chandelier earrings in pink gold and titanium, encrusted with fancy sapphires and morganites, conjure up images of spicy samba headdresses from the Rio Carnival, the spectacular headpieces of cabaret dancers, fronds of palm trees against the dark skies, and the dancing fountains of a big city on a sultry summer night, illuminated by colorful lights.

To complement the earrings, or to be marveled at on its own, is the statement ring in yellow gold, morganite, pink sapphires and rubies, as well as black and white diamonds.

Extraordinary and entrancing, they reveal the world behind them.

This could be your world: full of mystery, seduction and strong character.

The full sensual force and sophistication of the jewels reveal their true colors against the clean and feminine lines of illustrations by Ellie Rahim.

ANCIENT WORLDS AND TALISMANIC SYMBOLS: DAVID WEBB’S NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE ZODIAC

LEO’S CLAW AND SCORPIO’S STING IN STRONG, STATEMENT HAMMERED-GOLD PIECES BY THE ICONIC JEWELER
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Illustration by INCYCUBANS
David Webb—the quintessential American luxury jewelry house—presents a new capsule collection.

Zodiac.

Whether a believer in astrology and the stories of our lives as told by the stars, or a science-minded sceptic and astronomer, everyone will find something in these small, rough-hewn golden plaques, each depicting a reimagined astrological sign on one side and a classic astrological symbol on the other.

The twelve pendant necklaces, both antique- and modern-looking and archeological in spirit, were inspired by unconventional designs from the 60s discovered in David
Webb’s archives, and his fascination with the ancient world.

The rectangular pendants in yellow gold, or in yellow gold encrusted with diamonds, are carved with the history of the iconic jewelry house and constellations of ancient meaning.

These unique, versatile and precious objects can become your one-and-only talisman and faithful companion to your casual, everyday style, or complement and enrich an extravagant jewelry ensemble for an elegant soirée.

THE JEWELRY ICON

A HUMBLE YET CHARISMATIC GARDEN FLOWER BECOMES A SEDUCTIVE EARPIECE IN THE HANDS OF CHOPARD’S JEWELERS

THE FRENCH HIGH JEWELRY HOUSE ETERNALIZES THE BEAUTY OF A PANSY IN A SET OF CAPTIVATING EARRINGS
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Illustration by Inkycubans

The sapphire, garnet and amethyst petals, tsavorite dewdrops and yellow-brown diamond centers of Chopard’s Pansy earrings are held together by an ultra-lightweight, delicate, yet stupendously strong titanium framework—a brilliant solution by the Maison’s jewelers, who have considered not only the aesthetic appeal of the earrings but also the comfort of the lucky wearer.
They are part of Chopard’s Red Carpet 2020 collection, inspired by the beauty of Nature. Conceptualized by the Maison’s Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele, it celebrates both strong and fragile species of flora and fauna as a symbolic tribute and statement of the brand’s journey towards sustainable and ethical jewelry, It’s a mark of respect towards both natural resources and human labor.
Once I heard a wistful old Russian tale about a girl named Anyuta who is turned into a flower after many years of waiting for her boy to return from war. Since then, pansies are called in Russian “Anyuta’s eyes” and this gentle flower grows by the roadside, looking into the distance, in the hope that the sweetheart will come back, safe and sound.
The portrait of a woman by contemporary artist Lolita Pelegrime—slightly edgy, capturing with bold, chaotic strokes the expression and colors —yearns to wear this stellar creation by Chopard, radiating delicate and powerful energy, intense and gentle hues, as well as its life-affirming balance of art, beauty and extraordinary finesse.

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