The Jewel in the Crown

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The most important jewelry exhibition since Elizabeth Taylor’s is going under the hammer…

On 19 June the Maharajas and Mughal Magnificence sale at Christie’s will auction almost 400 pieces of spectacular Indian jewellery and bejewelled objects in what the auction house describes as “the most important jewelry sale since Elizabeth Taylor’s collection was auctioned in 2011.”
Spanning five centuries the Al Thani collection showcases the history of Indian jewelled art, much of with royal provenance having been passed down through generations of Maharjas. Its sheer scale, charts new territory for Christie’s and pieces such the 1907 Diamond Turban Ornament and gemstones yet to be turned into jewels, including a 52.58-carat D-colour, Internally Flawless diamond known as the ‘Mirror of Paradise’, are so valuable that museums, the natural home for these world-important pieces, cannot afford to acquire them at such short notice.
Which means, in turn, that the New York auction, to feature pieces by prestigious houses including Cartier, Bulgari and Mauboussin and revered contemporary jewellers JAR and Viren Bhagat, will be a melee of the world’s super wealthy to see who can bag first them for their personal collection.

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Dauphin: Cultivated, Contemporary, Cool

Dauphin creates jewelry for today’s woman…

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I love the clean, structural lines of Dauphin’s work. It exemplifies what I am looking for in jewelry, and what I personally like to wear. So I was delighted to hear this cool house is working with Modus Operandi, the platform that enables women to pre-order designer pieces straight off the runway.
In her latest collection, the French designer who spent more than a decade at ballet school, injects her diamond wave earrings and pendants with a kinetic energy: this is passionate jewelry that moves with the body.
She has said elsewhere that her work is more than decoration and ornamentation. And I couldn’t agree more. This is jewelry for the contemporary woman who is feminine yet strong, free not fashionable.

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ALIGHIERI [ Perfect Imperfection ]

Italian literature and Swiss sculpture inspire London jewelry…

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When I first came across London designer Rosh Mahtani’s perfectly imperfect jewelry my thoughts turned immediately to the extremely tall and slender figurines of Alberto Giacomo, one of the most important sculptors of the 20th century.
The Swiss artist once said of his trademark eroded surfaces that he was not sculpting the human figure but the “shadow that is cast”. I see that same sensibility in the gold-plated pieces of Alighieri, a collection Mahtani says was inspired by the Divine Comedy.
(All the slides are shoppable, beautiful Alighieri jewelry is available for you online)

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Chanel High Jewelry collection : Coromandel [ Something to screen about]

“I’m like a snail. I carry my house with me. Two Chinese screens, books everywhere. I’ve never been able to live in an open house. The first thing I look for is screens,” Coco Chanel

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Her precious 17th and 18th century Coromandel screens, discovered in the 1910s, were everything to Coco Chanel. They followed her from residence to residence, and were also constantly on the move in her various homes, detaching, reducing, masking and magnifying doorways, fireplaces and mirrors according to her needs and desires. For Coco, décor was a poetic landscape in which she liked to lose herself across the oceans and the centuries.

The imaginary world of Coromandel is the inspiration for this poetic collection of 59 pieces that is designed around the floral, animal and mineral themes depicted on the Chinese screens. Coco’s signature flower, the Camellia, birds just about to take flight and the French fashion designer’s love of crystal and gemstones – as they appear in the screens, they feature in the jewelry. It is ingenious and hypnotic!

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Pearls and roses are always appropriate [Jackie Kennedy]

March22MK Style

Both fragile, both feminine and both eternally beautiful, roses and pearls are a natural pairing.

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In my world Pearls and Roses symbolise love and loyalty. Just ask Oscar Wilde. The other day I was reading The Nightingale and the Rose to my daughter, his heartbreaking children’s story in which a nightingale observes an emotionally distraught college student lament the absence of a red rose among the myriad of plants before him. The red rose, he wails, is needed to win over the hand of his true love.
“Mummy, what if there really were no more roses in the world!” exclaimed my daughter. “What would we do?”
“That’ll never happen,” I replied, but in truth she got me thinking. How would we cope with a world without roses and pearls?

So many perfumes and beauty products are created from this beautiful flower. I decided to dedicate a short post to them and to my favourite pearls.
Cruelty-free, vegan Chantecaille’s superb, concentrated Rose de Mai rose face oil and cream, is one outstanding example. And Chantecaille’s rose water is on the list too. It’s the best, purest rose water I have ever tried.

And I certainly don’t want to contemplate a world without my favourite Mizuki pearls! In the skilled designer hands, these orbs are transformed in highly modern and sculptural ways, perfectly reinvented for the contemporary woman. And of course, nothing flatters the complexion like pearls.

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Butterflies in Flight

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American artist J.Louis’ dreamy interpretation of the female form evokes Van Cleef’s billowing of a butterfly’s wings beautifully.

It can take a lifetime to find your style, but at the tender age of 26 I think J. Louis has already got it.
The expressive faces of his peaceful feminine figures are married beautifully with abstract blocks of raw colour, and when I first came across his work my thoughts turned immediately to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Between the Finger ring and earrings.

I love that the emblem of the butterfly in flight continues to provide design inspiration for the maison’s stunning additions to its spring 2019 collection. And I also love how the deep blue of lapis lazuli contrasts with the warmth of yellow gold and the glitter of diamonds in these pieces: iconic Van Cleef & Arpels asymmetry inspired by nature.

@thejlouis @vancleefarpels

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Screenlife [CHANEL COROMANDEL HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION]

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I’ve selected my favorite pieces from Chanel’s Coromandel collection.

Coco Chanel said that when she looked at her Coromandel screens in the evening she saw doors opening and knights setting off on horseback. When I look at this jewelry in the morning I see Spring in the Loire Valley, or even Provence.

The motifs so dear to Coco Chanel are reworked beautifully in these gems. I’ve selected a few very special pieces from Chanel’s Coromandel collection for this post. They are a mesmerizing blend of the architectural, art deco, contemporary and they also say Spring has sprung!
The Fleur de Nacre and Horizon Lointain earrings are, and I use this word carefully, unique. The mineral theme of Horizon Lointain ring has the same well balanced design and the Vibration Minerale pieces are so playful and, well, alive. They hum with life. A beautiful blend of timeless savoir-faire of the Chanel Fine Jewelry workshop with the vigour of youth.

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Silvia Furmanovich’s Marquetry

Silvia Furmanovich is a powerhouse of Brazilian jewelry. Her work is famously rich and sumptuous, incorporating organic material while exploring global culture and staying evocative of her native Brazil. Her collection, Marquetry, is a conscious celebration of the country’s most precious resource: the Amazon rainforest.

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The collection was inspired by Furmanovich’s encounters with artisans of the Amazon, where she was introduced to their innovative and environmentally conscious approaches to the decorative arts. Marquetry, the classical furniture inlay decoration technique, is brought to an entirely new level with this collection, which leverages all-nautral dyeing techniques and renewable woods to create individual jewelry pieces that are light, wearable, and detailed beyond belief.

These native woods are reclaimed from the forest floor, not cut from living specimens. The incredible colors and textures can be traced back to artisans’ deep knowledge of the environment, a knowledge that can be obtained only from generations of time spent living in what most of us would consider an “untamed” environment, observing the effect of natural phenomena on wood. For example, some colors in the collection naturally occur when wood is submerged in water for a prolonged period.

“Pairing the tones and textures of indigenous salvaged wood with rare and precious gems, gold and diamonds creates a beautiful effect,” she says. “I love the mixture of materials. I don’t have a prejudice against using common materials like seashells or pieces of wood with gold and diamonds. I want to make something that matches what I’m looking for; it doesn’t have to be ‘precious’. Mixing precious with common is beautiful.”

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More than Picasso’s muse

March11Shop

Tate Modern is rightly celebrating the work of the incredible but often forgotten Dora Maar.

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Picasso immortalised her in his 1937 painting Weeping Woman, but Dora Maar was always more than her tears. So here at The Jewelry Icon we are delighted that the Tate Modern has a new exhibition showcasing the work of this talented and progressive artist. In the 1930s, her provocative photomontages became celebrated icons of surrealism, and that has been too easily forgotten.
To be with a person as remarkable as Picasso, you probably need to be a big character yourself and there’s no doubt that the gorgeous and strong Maar stood up to him. But after he left her for a younger mistress, heartbroken Maar went into tailspin and lived the rest of her life alone until her death in Paris in 1997. It’s fair to say, as many have, that the decision to dedicate her life and love to Picasso, marked the end of her artistic career. Was it the wrong step?

TATE MODERN: Dora Maar Exhibition 

 

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BEST APHORISM FROM KARL

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KARL LAGERFELD QUOTES:

WOMEN:

“The woman is the most perfect doll that i have dressed with delight and admiration.”

“The only love that I really believe in is a mother’s love for her children.”

FASHION:

“Never use the word “cheap”. Today everybody can look chic in inexpensive clothes (the rich buy them too). There is good clothing design on every level today. You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans — it’s up to you.”

“One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a Little Black Dress.”

“Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants.”

“Fashion is a language that creates itself in clothes to interpret reality.”

“I am a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes — it’s about all kinds of change”

“I want everyone to wear what they want and mix it in their own way. That, to me, is what is modern.”

“A respectable appearance is sufficient to make people more interested in your soul”

WORK:

“Don’t sacrifice yourself too much, because if you sacrifice too much there’s nothing else you can give and nobody will care for you “

“People who do a job that claims to be creative have to be alone to recharge their batteries. You can’t live 24 hours a day in the spotlight and remain creative. For people like me, solitude is a victory.”

“Clear thinking at the wrong moment can stifle creativity.”

WORLD/ PEOPLE:

“We live in a dark and romantic and quite tragic world.”

“Dieting is the only game where you win when you lose!”

“Don’t look to the approval of others for your mental stability”

“What i like about photographs is that they capture a moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce.”

“People who say that yesterday was better than today are ultimately devaluing their own existence.”

“When people talk about the good old days, I say to people, ‘It’s not the days that are old, it’s you that’s old.’ I hate the good old days. What is important is that today is good.”

“Music gives color to the air of the moment.”

ABOUT KARL:

“I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.”

“Books are a hard-bound drug with no danger of an overdose. I am the happy victim of books.”

“I love classic beauty. It’s an idea of beauty with no standard.”

“I like to reinvent myself — it’s part of my job.”

“Normally, I don’t recommend me for wedding dresses – they all get a divorce.”

“I will not talk about that. I like to read biographies, history, philosophical things like this. But it’s for my private use, and not for making people say, Oh, how clever this stupid man is. I don’t make intellectual conversation. I’m very superficial. I’m just a fashion designer. Fashion designers look at fashion magazines, right?”

“Why should I stop working? If I do, I’ll die and it’ll all be finished. ‘m lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored.”

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Everyday Luxury: Vhernier

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What better way is there to show how much you love a jewelry house than to wear their pieces every day? I’ll admit, I’m ready to wear Vhernier every single day. Their pieces are simple, but bold and eye-catching statements of strength and elegance.

As much as jewelry is a way of channeling our creativity and aesthetic, it’s can also direct and symbolize our mood and feelings. Vernier’s strong, structural, architectural jewelry gives me a sense of determination and technology that vibes perfectly with the modern world we live in. They’re little architectural masterpieces.

Here we present a couple of Vhernier classics and a new piece that channel this sensibility. The Vhernier Abbraccio is on the left and Tourbillion on the right. They’re both designed to be worn on the right hand (per Vernier’s attention to design and detail), but the Abbraccio can be worn on the left as well.

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Writing That Sparkles

Maison Chaumet Presents ‘Brillantes Ecritures’ Exhibition,22nd February – 1st April 2019, Paris

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Chaumet shows that jewelry and literature are a natural pairing.

The maison’s fans will know that throughout its history Chaumet has been a source of inspiration to men and women of letters. From Balzac to Dumas, Wharton to Rostand, Collette, Olga Picasso and Alfred de Musset, the list is long and distinguished. Now Chaumet is telling the story of its fascinating links with writer clients and literary figures in Brillantes Ecritures, an exhibition that brings together romantic novels, society columns, historic jewels and archive documents.

From February 22 to April 1, at 165 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris

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Reflections on St. Valentine’s Day 2019

Love is complex, and while St. Valentine’s Day simplifies it into gifts, chocolate and flowers. The Jewelry Icon brings another lens to the endeavor.

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We have to admit, the ranks of The Jewelry Icon are filled with skeptics. One might think that because we cover the most incredible jewelry, and so often the creation and history of such pieces is associated with love and passion and grand families, that we would be taken with the idea of St. Valentine’s Day. But that’s not quite the case. It’s not about love – we live for love, whether with lovers or children or family. It makes the world go round. But it’s the total commercialization of the holiday that we object to, the idea that someone needs to bring something expensive home for the holiday or they “don’t love me.” That’s just not true and it’s an unhealthy way to look at relationships. So, we have some ambivalence. But we do still love jewelry, so check out a few of our favorites for this year and remember that love isn’t like the movies and is about more than romantic love: it’s the glue that binds people together.

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ALHAMBRA TRAVELS …

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A NEW YORK TIMES ARTICLE ABOUT THE EMOTION BEHIND PERSONAL ORNAMENTS TRIGGERED FEELINGS ABOUT MY JEWELRY ATTACHMENTS.

 

With the creeping years I get increasingly attached to my jewelry. Treasured rings, bracelets and necklaces  almost become  my companions. I remember special occasions when I wore them, what I was thinking and feeling at the time, the jewelry tells stories.

When it comes to my absolute favorite pieces, like my vintage Alhambra, I’m so attached I live in fear of losing them. This is jewelry that I want to pass on to my children. All of which means I find this article in the New York times fascinating: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/30/fashion/jewelry-personal-stories.htmlIn Jewelry, Their jewely has become part of these people, and I understand that.

Spirited and quirky, Van Cleef’s spirited Lucky Charm is another piece that might well find its way into my family’s jewelry box.

 

Eternal Beauty: Boucheron’s Nature Triomphante

Blending art and technology to evoke the perfect beauty of nature.

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So often when I was a little girl (and even not so little!) I would take little flowers and examine every petal and color, tying them around my finger or placing them in my hair. Of course, the flower would always fade, but Boucheron has made the dream of such floral jewelry perfection come true with their collection “Nature Triomphante” – capturing the beauty of flowers’ utmost realism.

The technique used to render these pieces leverages some of our most advanced technology – it’s a wonder, really, how much hard science these soft, beautiful pieces depend on. Each piece is modeled after a real flower, with the bloom cycle of each studied closely to determine them at their most luxurious and opulent. From there, each petal and pistil was scanned four times by an MRI scanner before being placed on an exact, 3D-printed titanium mold of each piece and covered with a velvety lacquer.

The result is both stunning and titanium-strong. Each piece has been extensively tested and the flowers are fully stable, captured at their high point of beauty and bloom. It’s the culmination of two years of work on the part of Claire Chosen [Creative Director of Boucheron] and her team & time spent developing flower stabilization techniques and executing the overall concept.

The collection of rings is absolutely timeless, both a show-stopper and subtle in its remarkable natural beauty!

Special thanks to artist Hakan for his incredible illustration we commissioned for this article – it captures the elegance of the collection perfectly. Hake Arblom @inkycubans

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Inspired By Lucrezia Buccellati

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January10Shop

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