SUMMON THE JOYOUS GENIE: COLLECTION N°5 FROM CHANEL

YOU CANNOT KEEP LOCKED IN A BOTTLE THE BUBBLING JOY AND BEAUTY: EARRINGS FROM THE NEW CHANEL COLLECTION ARE PROOF.

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As I fiddle with the perfectly shaped bottle of Chanel N°5, touching its smooth glass filled with delicious scent, I am thinking: what if, by rubbing this vessel of fragrant charm, I could summon a genie?

What would I wish each and every one of you for 2022?

The Golden Stopper Earrings from Chanel’s new high jewelry Collection N°5 – the recognizable cork and bubbly burst of magnetism – are a concoction of enthusiasm, refinement and delight.

One earring, to open the bottle, is geometric and straightforward, a chiseled stopper reflecting the architecture and proportions of Place Vendôme, admired by Coco Chanel from the balcony of her room at the Ritz. The other – a vivacious splash of precious stones, a rapid movement – like droplets from a bottle of New Year champagne.

A hundred and twenty-three pieces within Chanel’s new Collection N°5 have been designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary perfume. Since 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman”, created by Gabrielle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, has been a staple of sophistication and confidence, a potent elixir of sensuality and femininity, and, without doubt, the most famous perfume in the world.

Coco Chanel is believed to have said: “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.”

Watching bubbles of champagne escape from the bottle on New Year’s night, I wish each and every one of you good health, warm evenings with your loved ones, cheerful mornings sparkling with ambition for discoveries and creation, and all the beauty that the world can give.

Thank you for another year with the Jewelry Icon!

Illustration by INCYCUBANS

A KNOT THAT WILL NOT UNTIE: ABSOLUTELY KNOT BY ENGELBERT

RINGS, NECKLACES AND BANGLES IN A VARIETY OF PRECIOUS COMBINATIONS – FOR ANY MOOD, OUTFIT AND OCCASION.

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Tie your precious memories together into a tight and elegant knot with Engelbert’s rings, necklaces and bangles.

Available in a variety of combinations – white gold and white diamonds, yellow gold and black diamonds, rose gold and white diamonds, and in many shapes – fat knots, slim knots, tight knots, loose knots – they all come from one of the Engelbert’s most significant collections.

Created within one of the most prominent jewelry houses of Scandinavia, the Absolutely Knot collection blends together the laconic charm and inmost recesses of the creative and stoic Nordic soul: beauty that is bound to last for ages and rise above any transient fashion crazes.

Look at the playful ease with which the intricate diamond pavé follows the curves of a tricky, twisted silhouette! These knots will work with everything and for everyone: any day and time of the year, a t-shirt or a dress, an extravagant fashionista or a stylish purist, a fancy soirée or a sentimental evening in an old bistro.

In aviation and in maritime affairs knots are still used when navigating an aircraft or ship, even though they do not fit within the modern metric system, because the length of a nautical mile (a base for the knot) is closely related to the longitude and latitude of the geographic coordinate system. Knots, as we all know, are also symbols of strong bond and affection.

How many times have you tied a knot just to watch it untie itself in a matter of hours or even minutes? The knots by Engelbert will stay tied forever, reflecting the strength and the length that people will go to find, connect with and never let go of their loved ones.

EngelbertStocholm

IN BLOOM AND IN FADING: BEAUTY IS EVERYWHERE BY LUZ CAMINO

PIECES FOR A PERSONALITY THAT SHINE AND COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER

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Illustration  by Chris Gambrell

Als men waarachtig van de natuur houdt dan vindt men ’t overal mooi.   

If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere.  

Vincent van Gogh in a letter to his brother Theo  

An artist’s creation is the child of that artist. This is true for the cult Spanish jewelry designer Luz Camino – an indisputable authority on botanical representations in jewelry and on rendering mundane, common and unexpected objects with a new, sublime perspective.  

In Spanish, “luz” means “light”. Even last year, in the epicenter of the pandemic, Luz Camino – an amazing artist and a radiant, warm and sophisticated person – managed to find peace and beauty amidst the uncertainty, and to continue with her creative ventures.  

Today, Luz continues to shine that light onto everything she picks up, turning each item into a miniature, dreamy piece of art.  

From exquisite, expensive stones and precious metals to tin cans, Luz competently uses any materials and artefacts that she sees fit for her purposes. Through innovative techniques, experiments and a powerful imagination, she takes her jeweler’s skills to extremes and elevates ordinary objects far above the monotony of humdrum days.  

To see charm in a wilting flower requires a unique type of personality, but to be able to capture its evanescent beauty in a piece of wearable art is an entirely different level of finesse. Luz Camino is capable of it all: the subdued palette of the Wilted Hydrangea Earrings, in plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds, silver and gold, is a perfect match for every skin tone, accentuating the peculiar beauty of a human ear and serving as its refined and natural extension.  

In the large, statement Freesia Brooch, enamel, agate, silver and gold meet snow-white, delicate porcelain. Feminine, fragile and bold, this sweetly fragrant flower can act as the dramatic and quirky centerpiece for a severe business suit or as the effortless and essential companion to a feather-light silk scarf.  

Like little children in a kindergarten, every single piece within the new collection is unique: with a strong and delicate, enchanting and challenging personality as well as a deep, yet-to-be-discovered world behind shiny eyes, each waiting to blossom in the cherishing light of the right wearer.  

Most creations come in a limited edition; some, like the Dragonfly, Falcon Hunting Hood, Alpine Soldanella and Blackberry brooches, are one-of-a-kind. So, don’t wait too long!   For more information on the new Luz Camino’s collection and the trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman, visit www.luzcamino.com/bergdorf and enjoy the wonderful views.  

GREEN IS FOR HEALTH. GREEN IS FOR BEAUTY. GREEN BY NAK ARMSTRONG

VIVACIOUS, FRESH AND ENERGIZING: ELECTRIC GREEN EARRINGS TO ELEVATE SPIRITS AND MAKE A GOOD MOOD EVEN BETTER

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Want to enjoy art, design and nature – all the beautiful things – for the long-long years of your life? Then you need more green!

Amazing scenery, objects of art and jewelry, all desire to be seen with your eyes. But have you heard the great news? Higher intake of green, leafy vegetables is associated with a lower risk of glaucoma, which is a leading cause of blindness?!

Some researchers in neurology, psychology and ophthalmology believe that the color green possesses a sedative effect: sensitivity to green objects might affect our hormonal production, which, in turn, influences our mood and calms us down.

Hail to the green!

Green is the universal color of nature, leaves, meadows, oxygen-producing algae and life, recognizable to any person from any country and any cultural background. Nak Armstrong offers fans of his jewelry many variations of this luscious, upbeat, electric green: Anemone Earrings in emerald, Ethiopian opal and diamonds; Parrot Earrings featuring acid-green tourmaline half-moons, emerald pavé, tourmaline triangles, tanzanite trillions and large Ethiopian opal drops; and Mini Pendulum Earrings, from the jewelry house’s Florapiega collection.

Nak finds inspiration in nature which he reinterprets, deconstructs and reconstructs in pieces of modern jewelry art. He also explores, invents and perfects his own metalworking and stone-setting techniques to challenge and change the way the gems and metals interact, modify and redefine each other.

In his creations, Nak delivers a perfect balance between jewelry impressionism and cubism: small, delicate brush strokes, alongside abstracted and fragmented depictions of flowers, birds and leaves.

The ideal perfume to go with this lush greenery of precious stones and elaborate designs is a new, unisex fragrance from Frederic Malle: Synthetic Jungle by Anne Flipo, a modern, bright, delicious and provocative take on nature, with top notes of basil, galbanum and black currant, middle notes of lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang and almond, and base notes of patchouli and oak moss.

Eat more greens, take care of both your eyes and mind, and enjoy the invigorating view of bright green jewelry by Nak Armstrong!

REDEFINING JEWELRY WITH NOMIS

A HIGH JEWELRY BRAND PUSHES BOUNDARIES AND INVITES US ALL TO EXPERIMENT

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Contemporary jewelry has no rules and no limits: it stands for the freedom of adornment and facilitates the metamorphosis of beauty into a powerful statement.

The Nomis brand, created by Alena Kiperman, aims to provide the most luxurious of tools to capture your emotions and transform them into elegant, sincere, offbeat and avant-garde manifests.

Rings which can be turned into earcuffs, distinctive earovals (yes, it is a thing!) and earclips, tribal and punkish earpins which in the blink of an eye become pendants, unisex necklaces can be worn separately as statement pieces, or mixed together in phantasmagoric, luxurious and provocative combinations.

Nomis jewelry is made in 18ct gold and lab-grown stones. Due to their unique qualities, man-made diamonds, emeralds and sapphires have long been used outside the jewelry industry, including high tech, bringing the future closer to us.

The jewelry of the future must keep up with the times.

Nomis has been created for people with a heightened sense of freedom. Cool and edgy, emphatic and elegant, this mind-blowing, experimental and multifunctional jewelry is easy to wear, fits any style and and any time of the day.

Experiment and express yourself, create your own fantasy and reality with the Nomis jewelry!

STORIES OF THE NIGHT SKY IN THE NEW ZODIAQUE COLLECTION BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

THE CLASSIC LUXURY JEWELRY HOUSE RETURNS TO ITS CLASSIC MOTIFS: SO, WHAT’S NEW?

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Art by Lolita Pelegrime

Fallen stars return to us in solid, strong, bold shapes and refined designs, merging into intricately sculptured golden bas-reliefs.

This new interpretation of the Zodiac by Van Cleef & Arpels evolved from the Zodiaque medals created in the 1970s, in the tradition of Poetic Astronomy, their signature theme.

Scattered across the vast expanse of space, from the surface of our planet stars appear as two-dimensional constellations, connecting them as if they were stories, shared by cultures across centuries and continents.

Wearing a Zodiac sign no longer requires unconditional commitment to its meaning. With such an old and elaborate system, Zodiacs have become more than the brief horoscopes that appear on the back page of a popular tabloid. They carry as much meaning as you choose to ascribe to them: the moment of your birth, the time you spend on earth, how you see yourself and other people, and how you deal with your differences and relationships.

In this new collection, the celestial signs, born in Western astrology, are represented in two versions: two sets of spectacular golden pendant necklaces, with and without symbolic stones. The medals, hanging on long, golden chains, depict the respective Zodiac signs on the front side, with dates on the reverse.

In one version, the stylized Zodiac animals are shaped against ornamental stones. Blue quartz, earthly brown pietersite, stripped tiger iron, bluish green amazonite, dark obsidian, bright green aventurine, dark green malachite, bright blue turquoise and deep blue lapis lazuli: the jewelers and designers of Van Cleef & Arpels did a great job researching the qualities of these curious gems, the way they interplay with the golden symbols and their meanings.

Тhe energy of the four elements of the Zodiac – fire, air, earth, and water – shows through the selection of unconventional stones: blue for water signs (Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces), green(ish) for earth (Taurus, Virgo, and Capricorn), the deep hues of the night sky for Air (Gemini, Libra, and Aquarius), and dramatic ochre and bronze, evoking flames and lava, for fire (Aries, Leo, and Sagittarius).

A more conservative, forever classic version of the Zodiac comes in twelve massive medals in polished yellow gold: to be passed from generation to generation whether as a talisman, a lucky charm or an inspiring piece of family heritage, whispering to the heirs a poetic story about the style, character and life of its original wearer.

FOR BOHEMIANS, DREAMERS, MODERATE SCEPTICS AND PASSIONATE BELIEVERS: ASHEVILLE BY DAVID WEBB

November09Jewelry in Art

NEW FLORAL COLLECTION IN GOLD, ENAMEL AND MOUTH-WATERING, COLORFUL GEMS

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In a small city on the scenic American East Coast – spiced up by fun murals, hipster coffee shops, the vibrant River Arts District where former factory buildings became home to artists’ studios and the Downtown Art District, populated with galleries and museums – a legend was born.

Asheville, nicknamed the “Paris of the South”, is a charming oasis of chill bohemian vibe and artistic coziness. Back in the 1980s, residents fought hard to keep its atmosphere as an artisan city, with unique style and architecture, small local stores and restaurants, in opposition to building a large shopping mall which would have required demolishing an authentic area of 11-blocks.

This eclectic city also happens to be the hometown of David Webb – a prominent American jeweler and founder of an eponymous luxury jewelry house – where he started his education in jewelry-making and grew fond of lavish, blooming gardens.

New fine jewelry collection named after Asheville: eight exceptional floral pieces (pendant necklace, drop earrings, cuff bracelets, choker, and an open-band ring), designed in two distinctive palettes – fresh, pink opals with rubies, emerald beads, turquoise and diamonds, and serene, blue chalcedony with sapphires, turquoise and diamonds. The distinctive 18-karat gold chains and white enamel, present in both colorways, make it easy to combine the jewels and weld them together.

It is tempting to search Asheville’s gardens and Blue Ridge Mountains for the wildflowers which have inspired David Webb’s designers. There, you can find rhododendrons, flame azaleas, mountain laurels, and Turk’s cap lilies. Curiously, the house says that the new collection’s floral motif has no direct analog in nature but, rather, is an archetypical, stylized flower, easily recognized across continents, epochs and cultures.

The jewelry house’s co-owner and creative director Mark Emanuel acknowledges that now is the right time to come back to “flower power”, with its intrinsic ideas of invigorating beauty, peace and optimism.

A gulp of fresh air, spring in the midst of winter’s approach, the delicate, light pink and pale blue flowers are supported by unique, weighty and supple chains – a combination of strength, dreaminess and femininity, marked with characteristic design elements: bold colors, lively enamel and carved hardstones.

So, here it is: the new Ashville collection by David Webb, a quintessence of light, charm and hope.

A MODERN TAKE ON OLD TRADITION: ANCIENT EGYPT BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

THE LATEST HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION ‘EGYPT’ BY AN INIMITABLE BRAZILIAN DESIGNER IS AT THE ABSOLUTE INTERSECTION OF OLD AND NEW

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To take something as ancient and profound as the history and artefacts of the millennia-old civilization and to present it in new light, suitable and wearable for our modern times, is not a task for the faint of heart.

This time, Silvia Furmanovich – a São Paulo designer who travels the world over in search of inspiration and unique places, diving into local cultures and meeting local craftspeople – drew her creative power from the very cradle of civilization.

In January, Silvia and her son Andrey spent a month exploring Egypt, its history, architecture, ancient monuments and relics, lush landscape, archaeological sites and remote villages, such as the Siwa Oasis – one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements, whose inhabitants have developed an unique desert culture and whose distinctive houses are built from karsheef (blocks of clay and salt).

In the markets of Cairo, she asked stone carvers to sculpt jewels from locally sourced gemstones: lapis lazuli, turquoise and jasper, envisaging their mesmerizing splendor in her future collection. In Luxor, which is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, she commissioned artisans to paint miniatures on stones, which were later set in the earrings.

Egypt has been an inspiration for jewelry artists for eons, and it remains their muse today.  “The meaning of jewelry was so important to ancient Egyptians; it was powerful, it was protection, and it was buried with them.”, said Silvia to Town & Country magazine. And she felt compelled to tell its story.

Up to the present day, Silvia Furmanovich, born in Brazil to a line of Italian goldsmiths, has been mastering, developing and searching for techniques and materials new and old, and this jewelry collection is the culmination of many years’ work and research.

Silvia creates her one-of-a-kind pieces through the alchemic combinations of daring designs, a passion for ancient, traditional and innovative craftsmanship, styles and materials, and her original interpretations of cultures. This year, she took the time and creative energy she needed to find, deconstruct and reconstruct the rich and mysterious ancient art, symbols, materials and meanings – and present them in a fresh light in her new Egyptian collection, a rich range of pieces: each uniquely different, all unparalleled, but, through Silvia’s creative genius, still part of one amazing artistic family.

A series of earrings within the collection have been inspired by the capitals of Egyptian columns, such as these Lotus Earrings in gold, diamonds and marquetry, which resemble the sacred lotus flower that blooms on many parts of Egyptian architecture. These pieces will appeal especially to strong, artistic personalities with an eye for timeless beauty.

TAKE IT SLOW AND SAVOR THE MOMENT WITH THE LEAVES COLLECTION BY CHARLOTTE LYNGGAARD

NATURE IS PERFECT, AS ARE CHARLOTTE’S METICULOUSLY CRAFTED CREATIONS

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Tiny crystals of the first October frost spread over rustling golden leaves and glimmer in the bright morning sun.  

Fresh, cool and zingy, the diamond-encrusted statement Leaves Earrings, Bracelet and Ring by Danish jewelry house Ole Lynggaard reveal the sculptural and naturalistic beauty of autumn’s elegant foliage.  

Ole Lynggaard is run by a creative and loving family who make sure that the brand’s values are always reflected in their designs. Solid branding, a delicate approach to detail, the highest standards of craftsmanship, appreciation of quality and the deeper meaning of both art and jewelry are passed from generation to generation: the people of this jewelry house stand by their brand and by their creations.  

Twelve years ago, Charlotte Lynggaard, Lead Designer and Creative Director of the house, created a tiara adorned with leaves and berries, reimagined in oxidized silver, white gold and diamonds. It was the beginning of the Leaves Collection with diamonds, set individually in the gold and silver leaves, ascending from small to big, and then back to small again, all the way around the rings, bangles and earrings: like dainty, ethereal crystals of frost or the trace of an ultralight raindrop.  

The satinized golden surface is processed by hand using an intricate engraving technique, producing an uncanny resemblance to the surface of a natural leaf. A trained goldsmith, Charlotte Lynggaard knows how precious metals respond to processing. More importantly, she knows that perfection takes time: this meticulous engraving takes a lot of work, but it yields fantastic results, responding to her sophisticated ideas and meeting her creative ambitions.  

Nature does not like to hurry: it takes many weeks for a leaf to grow from a tree bud and then mature. In tune with nature, Charlotte Lynggaard confesses that one cannot rush exquisite craftsmanship. 

Her patience and perfectionism are reflected in the meditative curves, texture and nuances of the Leaves Collection in which jewelry, design and nature become one.

ARCHITECTURE, LACE AND JEWELRY IN A DAZZLING EBLOUISSANTE SET BY CHANEL

IT’S ALL THERE: SLENDER, GOTHIC LINES, DELICATE, AIRY LACING AND EXCEPTIONAL PRECIOUS STONES

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Architectural and delicate, modern and ethnic, the Eblouissante set of high jewelry from the Escale à Venise collection by Chanel is everything you would have expected from the legendary luxury fashion house – and plenty more.

The combination of pink gold and platinum in tandem with flawless diamonds brings to mind intricate, hand-made embroidery and the gothic architecture of Venice: nuanced lace-like tiles, atmospheric windows and an aura of remarkable lightness, all obtained through the uncontestable artistry of medieval architects, engineers and builders.

The geometrically-set diamond cubes and rectangles are arranged like multiple openings and spaces in the mosaic of Venetian architecture. Frames of rose gold and platinum support refreshing ice-cubes of crystal-clear diamonds as a metaphor for dainty windows, letting fresh air into the twilight of cool, historical buildings. The gemstones are set in a precise, well-measured manner, creating an impression of lightness, lucidity, balanced elegance and refined poshness – qualities characteristic of Chanel from the very beginnings of the house.

The nature of lace has inspired architects to finesse detail, romanticism and mystery, playing with filigree light and energizing shadows in their creations from time immemorial, and continues to do so to this day. Lace-like town halls, churches and cathedrals possess qualities of airiness and tactility, making them more familiar to townies, almost like a second skin.

In the 1930s, Coco Chanel herself underwent a so-called “romantic” period, during which she widely employed lace, tulle and chiffon, accentuating the natural curves of a woman’s body, often using classic black to counterbalance the romantic quality of those materials and turn them into seductive gowns.

In the Escale à Venise collection and especially in the Eblouissante set, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, offers her own contemporary interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of Venice – always one of her favorite destinations.

Translated from the French as ‘dazzling’, the light and sculptural, ethnic and modern Eblouissante set lives up to its name – and way beyond it.

TOURMALINE RING BY TAFFIN: WHERE ART MEETS INTELLECT

September29Jewelry Now

TOURMALINE RING BY TAFFIN: WHERE ART MEETS INTELLECT BRIGHT COLORS AND SMOOTH SHAPES WORKING IN UNISON IN A SMART DESIGN

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The Taffin ring with a green tourmaline surrounded by smooth circles of green chartreuse (the yellow-green hue resembling the color of French chartreuse liqueurs), pale blue, emerald green and bright purple, possesses the seductive appeal of a bizarre candy which you have just unwrapped. Silky and tempting, it hasn’t yet started melting, and invites you to discover the delicious sweetness of its mysterious taste.

Few jewelers know how to look at stones and understand them, and then find just the right frame to make the gems look special or cool, magical or whimsical, mysterious or ultramodern, but Taffin is one of those jewelers.

Their playful and intellectual approach to stones and high jewelry makes these pieces highly artistic and, at the same time, easily wearable. Neither too solid nor too extravagant – exactly the right amount of flirtatious colorfulness with eye-catching shapes that generate designs that are immediately recognizable, avant-garde and unexpected.

Each stone has a character which can be lost when surrounded by the wrong architecture. Employing artistry, logic and intellect, the House of Taffin finds the sweet spot for every gem, making it shine and speak to the eyes and emotions of its beholders.

FEMININE FUTURISM BY FABIO SALINI

LUSCIOUS TITANIUM GRAPES FOR THE EARS OF A BOLD, MODERN GODDESS

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"Creating is an emotional process, so inspiration
can come from whatever touches your soul or
particularly catches your eyes: a color, a texture,
an architectural detail, a painting, a picture, a sunset."

"Fashion and jewelry might seem superficial
in these times, but our job is made of creativity
and passion which are an expression of love,
and love is what all of us want."

Fabio Salini

The blue and purple earrings by Fabio Salini are a contemporary poem to extraordinary women, inspirational art and mighty technology. Their massive size is counterbalanced by their component material: light and sturdy titanium, used widely in space and marine engineering because of its resistance to corrosion, fatigue and cracking, and tolerance for high temperatures.

Titanium is not the only unconventional material employed by the modernist Roman jeweler and designer. Other-worldly and futuristic, many of his creations feature unusual ingredients: natural objects like horns and eggs, bamboo and straw, non-precious components like rope and leather, industrial elements like copper thread, even carbon fiber – a high-tech, space-age, immensely strong, deep black material that adds a touch of a mystic, deep-space void and impenetrability to his intelligently engineered, ultra-modern and architectural, geometrical and delicate, voluminous and elaborate creations.

Trained in geology and gemology, Fabio Salini worked at the jewelry and watchmaking moguls Cartier and Bulgari where he developed his unique, eclectic, modern and imaginative style which earned him international fame and awards. Starting with his own collection which Salini presented to the world in 1999, he has been using new forms and unusual combinations of materials, looking for inspiration in contemporary art and artistic collaborations, innovating and experimenting to modernize and galvanize the spirit of high jewelry and make it what he believes it is: an expression of art. “If you don’t change the rules, if you don’t dare, you don’t bring anything new into the world,” Fabio Salini explained his philosophy to Vogue

Disagreeing with the idea that a jewel is inherently a symbol of the wearer’s status, Fabio provides a new outlook on the relation between the monetary value of the jewel’s ingredients and its artistic, personal and emotional worth. In his interview with Vivienne Becker, he stresses that the true preciousness of a jewel has to be discovered, revealed slowly, understood profoundly and most of all cherished by the wearer. 

Massive, vivid and dramatic, the titanium semispheres of the blue and purple earrings catch the light and give back extraordinary breams of energy. Like powerful magnets, whose wild temper has been mitigated by their feminine, soft volumes, these deific mini-shields are meant to attract all the glances in the space around them.

Are you the modern goddess – avant-garde, bold and adventurous – ready for a mighty dose of attention? Then these bunches of futuristic grapes are for you! Enjoy their irresistible attraction.

AN ERA OF DISCOVERIES: A NEW GEM IN THE LATEST INTERPRETATION OF SERPENT BOHÈME BY BOUCHERON

BOUCHERON’S CLASSICS IN NEW COLOR, FEATURING FRESH AND ENIGMATIC AQUAPRASE

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Beside the idle summer sea, 
And in the vacant summer days, 
Light Love came fluting down the way 
Where you were loitering with me. 

Beside the Idle Summer Sea 
by William Ernest Henley

When you think that you have seen it all, our beautiful and unpredictable planet will surprise you once again.

For centuries, the realm of fine jewelry has been dominated by diamonds and rubies, pearls and sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, topazes, aquamarines and tourmalines. Avant-garde jewelers and designers have also experimented with unconventional materials, from bamboo to cola cans. But the Earth had more to offer.

Hidden deep in the mysteries of Africa, an ancient, precious stone, the color of the Greek Aegean Sea, has been patiently waiting to be discovered. People have stumbled upon it time and time again, thinking it was some kind of chrysoprase or opal, but never cared to look deeper to find its true nature and worth.

That is until around the year 2013, when it fell into the curious hands of a Greek gemstone specialist, explorer and advocate for human rights Yianni Melas. Not satisfied with the response from a Swiss gem lab claiming that it was a chrysoprase, Yianni sought a second opinion from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which proved his hypothesis: it was not a chrysoprase, but a new variety of chalcedony, one that the world has never seen before. 

Thus, aquaprase became the first new gemstone discovered in the 21st century, or so the legend goes: ‘aqua’ for the blue water of the Aegean Sea, ‘prase’ – meaning ‘leek’ in ancient Greek – for the green shades of the freshly discovered stone.

This summer, Maison Boucheron introduced aquaprase in their rings, necklaces, earrings and bangles. The new Serpent Bohème collection is a modern take on the iconic Boucheron’s jewelry line, first launched in 1968.

The absolute classic of the Maison, it has glided through decades, changing its ingredients, from diamonds to amethysts, citrines, onyx, mother-of-pearl, turquoise and lapis lazuli, but never changing its free, bohemian spirit. Moving freely through times, tastes and styles, the refined, artistic, light and classy Serpent Bohème collection offers the kind of jewels that can easily be passed through generations, from mother to daughter, and further, and which can be worn by women from any era and of any age.

A serpent – one of the oldest mythological symbols of eternity – has been present in the Maison for more than 130 years. Around 1888, Monsieur Frédéric Boucheron made a snake-shaped necklace for his wife as a gift for their wedding anniversary, a symbol of his love and a talisman to protect her while he traveled.

Today, elegant and contemporary, pure and refined, the new Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème Aquaprase collection arrived in time for the jolly and sunny summer months, when you throw off the shackles of heavy winter clothes and face the lightness and seduction of thin silk, linen, satin and lace.

Aquaprase is an alluring stone. With its beautiful, translucent blue-green and baby blue colors, its cloud-like inclusions, attributed to the presence of chromium, zinc and nickel silicates, its hardness and lustrosity, make it a perfect material for jewelry. Just as important, the team mining aquaprаse try to make the process as sustainable and socially fair as possible, giving up to forty percent of the mine’s profits to the government of the country in which the mine is located, and purchasing all raw materials (not the usual top five percent of the ‘best’ stones). Aquaprase is fully natural and not treated chemically to achieve its wonderful blue color, which is an attractive – almost romantic – point for jewelry aficionados concerned about the ethical and environmental side of the business.

A classic, fresh and joyful summery stone, aquaprase in the new Serpent Bohème collection by Boucheron evokes sea and clouds, a feeling of drowsy tranquility and the peace of warm, careless summer days and long, refreshing evenings.

Wear Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème rings, earrings, necklaces and bangles alone or in a combination on a pinky and the ring finger, coupled with each other or with other favorite pieces of jewelry. The free, bohemian spirit, the smell of the sea, the warm sensation of tickly, clean sand will pave your way towards blissful delight.

WHITE IRIS DREAM BY ILGIZ

NATURE AND ART REUNITED IN A DELICATE AND EXPRESSIVE RING

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White Iris by Bliss Carman
 
 White Iris was a princess 
In a kingdom long ago, 
Mysterious as moonlight 
And silent as the snow. 

A subtle, sensual, powdery scent. Delicate, curly petals, twisting and curving lines. The rich verdure of pointy leaves. Rainbow-colored and white irises – the harbingers of early summer – shimmer on the horizon of high jewelry, brought to life by the infinite imagination and unrivalled mastery of Ilgiz.

In his trademark, colorful style, staying true to genuine artistry, aesthetics and creativity, weaving together the art and science of painting and sculpture, perspective and architecture, Ilgiz reproduces the delicacy and sophistication of the iris flower in a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind ring.

For Ancient Greeks, Iris was a messenger of the gods and goddess of the rainbow, carrying messages from the heavens down to earth on its iridescent arc. The iris also inspired the fleur-de-lis – a decorative symbol of French royalty, appearing on their coat of arms, shields and coins. To this day, purple iris remains a symbol of royalty and wisdom, blue iris is a symbol of hope, while white iris is a symbol of purity.

Whatever symbolism you attach to it, the iris remains the eponym of femininity, exotic grace and mysterious beauty. The fruit of a deep immersion into the secrets of the natural world, the White Iris Ring by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov captures every gradation of color, every nuance of mood, elicited by this dreamy and extravagant flower.

Van Gogh’s irises, painted in oil, light and soft and blue, and Ilgiz’s white irises, petals rendered in intricate enamel surrouning a shimmering opal. Both artists capture the emotion and beauty of this regal flower, immortalizing it for generations to come.

How kind that earth should treasure 
So beautiful a thing — 
All mystical enchantment, 
To stir our hearts in spring!

HEMMERLE’S SUNNY GERBERAS IN FULL BLOOM

ONE MORE MASTERPIECE BY THE AVANT-GARDE GERMAN JEWELER TO MAKE YOUR SUMMER EVEN BRIGHTER

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They are autographs of angels, penned 
In Nature’s green-leaved book, in blended tints, 
Borrowed from rainbows and the sunset skies, 
And written everywhere - on plain and hill   

Thank God for flowers! 
They gladden human hearts; Seraphic breathings 
part their fragrant lips With whisperings of Heaven.
From the poem Flowers by Albert Laighton

Bright, cheerful gerberas have long been a symbol of purity, while their simplicity, their myriads of radiant colors and gentle caramel aroma lift the spirits and fill the atmosphere with the sunny energy of life.  

Legend has it that a beautiful nymph was never left alone by admirers so she transformed herself into a humble yet wonderful wildflower to shake off their unwanted attention.  

The floral earrings by fourth-generation German jewelry house Hemmerle resemble orange gerbera daisies, featuring two spessartite garnets, resting in between the petals of anodized aluminum and bronze.  

These rich, luscious, orange stones form a perfect duet with the design and mood of the earrings: a symphony to sun, warmth and beauty.   Interestingly, the name of gerbera is also associated with Germany: it was named after a German medic and botanist Traugott Gerber.  

Look closer at this beautiful flower: you will be surprised to see that its big head is actually composed of hundreds of little flowers. The jewelers of Hemmerle managed to capture this vibrant vivacity and spicy zest, its resemblance to the solar disc, surrounded by petals of light.  

Floral earrings by Hemmerle: juicy colors for the lazy summer siesta and a display of warmth for an elegant winter soirée.  

SENSUAL JEWELRY BORN OUT OF A BEAUTIFUL COLLABORATION: MESSIKA BY KATE MOSS

VOLUMINOUS, ECLECTIC AND FLUID – JEWELS TO BE WORN AND ADMIRED EVERY DAY

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Timeless, lightweight and bohemian, this new high jewelry collection is as impressive and exquisite as the two women behind it.  

Messika by Kate Moss is the fruit of close collaboration between a marvelous jewelry designer and a world-famous supermodel, fashion icon and muse – two powerful women with unique and catchy tastes and ideas.  

They met on the set of a Messika campaign shot by Australian photographer Chris Colls, when Kate Moss became the face of Messika Paris for the second year in a row.  

During the shoot, Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of Messika Jewelry, spotted Kate’s love for diamonds. They shared a common vision of diamond jewelry not as the representation of power and wealth but as a sign of individuality and a staple of distinctive personal style, which could be worn and enjoyed at any time, not just on big occasions: easily and contemporarily, spontaneously and organically.  

The heart of the collection is in Kate Moss’s own jewelry box which, at first sight, might seem poles apart from Messika’s designs. Art Deco, hippy 70s, bohemian pieces, an antique Indian snake, a diamond and emerald ring. Different eras, styles and cultures, You might think that Kate’s eclectic and sometimes surprising taste might have daunted Valérie. Not a bit! On the contrary, it ignited the passionate designer, renowned for her disruptive vision of jewelry and for breaking conventions, and prompted her to find a synergetic way of combining Kate’s unique style and love for vintage pieces with Messika’s modern spirit and diamond expertise.  

Through constant collaboration and discussion, visits between London and Paris, incessant reviewing of CAD drawings and messaging about what the pieces would look and feel like, the two artists reached perfect harmony – and an astonishing result: the Messika by Kate Moss high jewelry collection.  

The lace-shaped Exotic Charm cuff and earrings and the Diamond Wave ring from this new collection are refined and bold, delicate and strong, extraordinary examples of the impeccable craftsmanship and uncompromising quality of Valérie Messika and the free, bohemian spirit of her muse Kate Moss.

IRIS PETAL EARRINGS BY LUZ CAMINO: A GRACEFUL REMINDER THAT BEAUTY IS EVERYWHERE

THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE

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Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.

Audrey Hepburn

The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.

Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist

 

The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.

The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.

Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.

In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.

The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.

The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.

 

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