FEMININE FUTURISM BY FABIO SALINI

LUSCIOUS TITANIUM GRAPES FOR THE EARS OF A BOLD, MODERN GODDESS

FavoriteLoading
"Creating is an emotional process, so inspiration
can come from whatever touches your soul or
particularly catches your eyes: a color, a texture,
an architectural detail, a painting, a picture, a sunset."

"Fashion and jewelry might seem superficial
in these times, but our job is made of creativity
and passion which are an expression of love,
and love is what all of us want."

Fabio Salini

The blue and purple earrings by Fabio Salini are a contemporary poem to extraordinary women, inspirational art and mighty technology. Their massive size is counterbalanced by their component material: light and sturdy titanium, used widely in space and marine engineering because of its resistance to corrosion, fatigue and cracking, and tolerance for high temperatures.

Titanium is not the only unconventional material employed by the modernist Roman jeweler and designer. Other-worldly and futuristic, many of his creations feature unusual ingredients: natural objects like horns and eggs, bamboo and straw, non-precious components like rope and leather, industrial elements like copper thread, even carbon fiber – a high-tech, space-age, immensely strong, deep black material that adds a touch of a mystic, deep-space void and impenetrability to his intelligently engineered, ultra-modern and architectural, geometrical and delicate, voluminous and elaborate creations.

Trained in geology and gemology, Fabio Salini worked at the jewelry and watchmaking moguls Cartier and Bulgari where he developed his unique, eclectic, modern and imaginative style which earned him international fame and awards. Starting with his own collection which Salini presented to the world in 1999, he has been using new forms and unusual combinations of materials, looking for inspiration in contemporary art and artistic collaborations, innovating and experimenting to modernize and galvanize the spirit of high jewelry and make it what he believes it is: an expression of art. “If you don’t change the rules, if you don’t dare, you don’t bring anything new into the world,” Fabio Salini explained his philosophy to Vogue

Disagreeing with the idea that a jewel is inherently a symbol of the wearer’s status, Fabio provides a new outlook on the relation between the monetary value of the jewel’s ingredients and its artistic, personal and emotional worth. In his interview with Vivienne Becker, he stresses that the true preciousness of a jewel has to be discovered, revealed slowly, understood profoundly and most of all cherished by the wearer. 

Massive, vivid and dramatic, the titanium semispheres of the blue and purple earrings catch the light and give back extraordinary breams of energy. Like powerful magnets, whose wild temper has been mitigated by their feminine, soft volumes, these deific mini-shields are meant to attract all the glances in the space around them.

Are you the modern goddess – avant-garde, bold and adventurous – ready for a mighty dose of attention? Then these bunches of futuristic grapes are for you! Enjoy their irresistible attraction.

AN ERA OF DISCOVERIES: A NEW GEM IN THE LATEST INTERPRETATION OF SERPENT BOHÈME BY BOUCHERON

BOUCHERON’S CLASSICS IN NEW COLOR, FEATURING FRESH AND ENIGMATIC AQUAPRASE

FavoriteLoading
Beside the idle summer sea, 
And in the vacant summer days, 
Light Love came fluting down the way 
Where you were loitering with me. 

Beside the Idle Summer Sea 
by William Ernest Henley

When you think that you have seen it all, our beautiful and unpredictable planet will surprise you once again.

For centuries, the realm of fine jewelry has been dominated by diamonds and rubies, pearls and sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, topazes, aquamarines and tourmalines. Avant-garde jewelers and designers have also experimented with unconventional materials, from bamboo to cola cans. But the Earth had more to offer.

Hidden deep in the mysteries of Africa, an ancient, precious stone, the color of the Greek Aegean Sea, has been patiently waiting to be discovered. People have stumbled upon it time and time again, thinking it was some kind of chrysoprase or opal, but never cared to look deeper to find its true nature and worth.

That is until around the year 2013, when it fell into the curious hands of a Greek gemstone specialist, explorer and advocate for human rights Yianni Melas. Not satisfied with the response from a Swiss gem lab claiming that it was a chrysoprase, Yianni sought a second opinion from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which proved his hypothesis: it was not a chrysoprase, but a new variety of chalcedony, one that the world has never seen before. 

Thus, aquaprase became the first new gemstone discovered in the 21st century, or so the legend goes: ‘aqua’ for the blue water of the Aegean Sea, ‘prase’ – meaning ‘leek’ in ancient Greek – for the green shades of the freshly discovered stone.

This summer, Maison Boucheron introduced aquaprase in their rings, necklaces, earrings and bangles. The new Serpent Bohème collection is a modern take on the iconic Boucheron’s jewelry line, first launched in 1968.

The absolute classic of the Maison, it has glided through decades, changing its ingredients, from diamonds to amethysts, citrines, onyx, mother-of-pearl, turquoise and lapis lazuli, but never changing its free, bohemian spirit. Moving freely through times, tastes and styles, the refined, artistic, light and classy Serpent Bohème collection offers the kind of jewels that can easily be passed through generations, from mother to daughter, and further, and which can be worn by women from any era and of any age.

A serpent – one of the oldest mythological symbols of eternity – has been present in the Maison for more than 130 years. Around 1888, Monsieur Frédéric Boucheron made a snake-shaped necklace for his wife as a gift for their wedding anniversary, a symbol of his love and a talisman to protect her while he traveled.

Today, elegant and contemporary, pure and refined, the new Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème Aquaprase collection arrived in time for the jolly and sunny summer months, when you throw off the shackles of heavy winter clothes and face the lightness and seduction of thin silk, linen, satin and lace.

Aquaprase is an alluring stone. With its beautiful, translucent blue-green and baby blue colors, its cloud-like inclusions, attributed to the presence of chromium, zinc and nickel silicates, its hardness and lustrosity, make it a perfect material for jewelry. Just as important, the team mining aquaprаse try to make the process as sustainable and socially fair as possible, giving up to forty percent of the mine’s profits to the government of the country in which the mine is located, and purchasing all raw materials (not the usual top five percent of the ‘best’ stones). Aquaprase is fully natural and not treated chemically to achieve its wonderful blue color, which is an attractive – almost romantic – point for jewelry aficionados concerned about the ethical and environmental side of the business.

A classic, fresh and joyful summery stone, aquaprase in the new Serpent Bohème collection by Boucheron evokes sea and clouds, a feeling of drowsy tranquility and the peace of warm, careless summer days and long, refreshing evenings.

Wear Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème rings, earrings, necklaces and bangles alone or in a combination on a pinky and the ring finger, coupled with each other or with other favorite pieces of jewelry. The free, bohemian spirit, the smell of the sea, the warm sensation of tickly, clean sand will pave your way towards blissful delight.

WHITE IRIS DREAM BY ILGIZ

NATURE AND ART REUNITED IN A DELICATE AND EXPRESSIVE RING

FavoriteLoading
White Iris by Bliss Carman
 
 White Iris was a princess 
In a kingdom long ago, 
Mysterious as moonlight 
And silent as the snow. 

A subtle, sensual, powdery scent. Delicate, curly petals, twisting and curving lines. The rich verdure of pointy leaves. Rainbow-colored and white irises – the harbingers of early summer – shimmer on the horizon of high jewelry, brought to life by the infinite imagination and unrivalled mastery of Ilgiz.

In his trademark, colorful style, staying true to genuine artistry, aesthetics and creativity, weaving together the art and science of painting and sculpture, perspective and architecture, Ilgiz reproduces the delicacy and sophistication of the iris flower in a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind ring.

For Ancient Greeks, Iris was a messenger of the gods and goddess of the rainbow, carrying messages from the heavens down to earth on its iridescent arc. The iris also inspired the fleur-de-lis – a decorative symbol of French royalty, appearing on their coat of arms, shields and coins. To this day, purple iris remains a symbol of royalty and wisdom, blue iris is a symbol of hope, while white iris is a symbol of purity.

Whatever symbolism you attach to it, the iris remains the eponym of femininity, exotic grace and mysterious beauty. The fruit of a deep immersion into the secrets of the natural world, the White Iris Ring by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov captures every gradation of color, every nuance of mood, elicited by this dreamy and extravagant flower.

Van Gogh’s irises, painted in oil, light and soft and blue, and Ilgiz’s white irises, petals rendered in intricate enamel surrouning a shimmering opal. Both artists capture the emotion and beauty of this regal flower, immortalizing it for generations to come.

How kind that earth should treasure 
So beautiful a thing — 
All mystical enchantment, 
To stir our hearts in spring!

HEMMERLE’S SUNNY GERBERAS IN FULL BLOOM

ONE MORE MASTERPIECE BY THE AVANT-GARDE GERMAN JEWELER TO MAKE YOUR SUMMER EVEN BRIGHTER

FavoriteLoading
They are autographs of angels, penned 
In Nature’s green-leaved book, in blended tints, 
Borrowed from rainbows and the sunset skies, 
And written everywhere - on plain and hill   

Thank God for flowers! 
They gladden human hearts; Seraphic breathings 
part their fragrant lips With whisperings of Heaven.
From the poem Flowers by Albert Laighton

Bright, cheerful gerberas have long been a symbol of purity, while their simplicity, their myriads of radiant colors and gentle caramel aroma lift the spirits and fill the atmosphere with the sunny energy of life.  

Legend has it that a beautiful nymph was never left alone by admirers so she transformed herself into a humble yet wonderful wildflower to shake off their unwanted attention.  

The floral earrings by fourth-generation German jewelry house Hemmerle resemble orange gerbera daisies, featuring two spessartite garnets, resting in between the petals of anodized aluminum and bronze.  

These rich, luscious, orange stones form a perfect duet with the design and mood of the earrings: a symphony to sun, warmth and beauty.   Interestingly, the name of gerbera is also associated with Germany: it was named after a German medic and botanist Traugott Gerber.  

Look closer at this beautiful flower: you will be surprised to see that its big head is actually composed of hundreds of little flowers. The jewelers of Hemmerle managed to capture this vibrant vivacity and spicy zest, its resemblance to the solar disc, surrounded by petals of light.  

Floral earrings by Hemmerle: juicy colors for the lazy summer siesta and a display of warmth for an elegant winter soirée.  

SENSUAL JEWELRY BORN OUT OF A BEAUTIFUL COLLABORATION: MESSIKA BY KATE MOSS

VOLUMINOUS, ECLECTIC AND FLUID – JEWELS TO BE WORN AND ADMIRED EVERY DAY

FavoriteLoading

Timeless, lightweight and bohemian, this new high jewelry collection is as impressive and exquisite as the two women behind it.  

Messika by Kate Moss is the fruit of close collaboration between a marvelous jewelry designer and a world-famous supermodel, fashion icon and muse – two powerful women with unique and catchy tastes and ideas.  

They met on the set of a Messika campaign shot by Australian photographer Chris Colls, when Kate Moss became the face of Messika Paris for the second year in a row.  

During the shoot, Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of Messika Jewelry, spotted Kate’s love for diamonds. They shared a common vision of diamond jewelry not as the representation of power and wealth but as a sign of individuality and a staple of distinctive personal style, which could be worn and enjoyed at any time, not just on big occasions: easily and contemporarily, spontaneously and organically.  

The heart of the collection is in Kate Moss’s own jewelry box which, at first sight, might seem poles apart from Messika’s designs. Art Deco, hippy 70s, bohemian pieces, an antique Indian snake, a diamond and emerald ring. Different eras, styles and cultures, You might think that Kate’s eclectic and sometimes surprising taste might have daunted Valérie. Not a bit! On the contrary, it ignited the passionate designer, renowned for her disruptive vision of jewelry and for breaking conventions, and prompted her to find a synergetic way of combining Kate’s unique style and love for vintage pieces with Messika’s modern spirit and diamond expertise.  

Through constant collaboration and discussion, visits between London and Paris, incessant reviewing of CAD drawings and messaging about what the pieces would look and feel like, the two artists reached perfect harmony – and an astonishing result: the Messika by Kate Moss high jewelry collection.  

The lace-shaped Exotic Charm cuff and earrings and the Diamond Wave ring from this new collection are refined and bold, delicate and strong, extraordinary examples of the impeccable craftsmanship and uncompromising quality of Valérie Messika and the free, bohemian spirit of her muse Kate Moss.

IRIS PETAL EARRINGS BY LUZ CAMINO: A GRACEFUL REMINDER THAT BEAUTY IS EVERYWHERE

THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE

FavoriteLoading

Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.

Audrey Hepburn

The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.

Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist

 

The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.

The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.

Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.

In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.

The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.

The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.

 

SUNBEAMS AND SPIKES IN YELLOW SAPPHIRE EARRINGS BY HEMMERLE

THERE IS NO END TO EXUBERANT SURPRISES CREATED BY THE 128 YEAR-OLD JEWELRY HOUSE  

FavoriteLoading

Hemmerle’s earrings in spectacular yellow sapphires, zircons, diamonds and bronze bring sunshine back to a world which occasionally lacks certainty, warmth and stability.  

The solid shapes, the substantial weight of precious stones, the strong and magnetic yellow hues surrounded by tiny spikes, act as a metaphor for the magnificent celestial body, breathing out its rays of burning-hot energy, or an exotic, temperamental plant, threatening to prick you if you are not sufficiently cautious: look but do not touch!  

With this unique creation, Hemmerle, a fourth-generation jewelry house founded in 1893, once again demonstrates dedication to exceptional craftsmanship, unrivalled quality and combinations of innovative materials.  

A burst of vivacious and expressive energy for cloudy and sunny days alike. Look, touch, experience and enjoy!

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER: A LUXURIOUS BEAST OF PREY TO ADORN YOUR WRIST

CARTIER REKINDLES THE MAISON’S ALL-TIME FAVORITE, GRACEFUL PREDATOR

FavoriteLoading

In smooth yellow or pink gold with onyx and tsavorite garnets, or with white diamond pavé, onyx and emerald as the magnificent beast’s nose and eyes, these new panther bracelets by Cartier draw on the history of the renowned French jewelry and watch house’s legendary emblem.

Debuting back in 1914 in the form of a wristwatch, the panther became an enduring symbol in the bestiary of the Maison, and has not stopped evolving ever since.

“La Panthère” was the nickname of Parisian style icon Jeanne Toussaint, lover and muse to Louis Cartier and Artistic Director of High Jewelry at the Maison from 1933 to 1970. At that time, a woman holding such a high position was mind-blowing. Known for her ferocious and opinionated temperament, intelligence, extreme femininity and elegance, Jeanne Toussaint was the human embodiment of the strong-willed, svelte animal.

The Cartier panther of today acquires the shape of a curved, flexible gold bangle, remarkable for its clean and supple design, where pure, flowing shapes find perfect balance with modern luxury.

A playful and dangerous animal to elegantly purr on your wrist.

BRIGHT, FEMININE AND DELICATELY MACABRE: A DEBUT BY SAMUEL FRANÇOIS

TEARY EYES, SCULLS, BONES AND FLOWERS IN A COLLECTION OF MODERN AND ECLECTIC JEWELRY

FavoriteLoading

Bocca Della Verità Necklace, Sad Sagittarius Earrings, Blue Sorrow Bracelet – the names of these pieces by Samuel François, a Paris-based fashion director of the international fashion magazine Numéro, who has recently presented his very own jewelry collection – speak for themselves.

They sound ominous, melancholic, even sinister. But don’t let them deceive you into thinking that this collection is dark and sad. It is anything but!

Stylistically somewhat reminiscent of Codognato – one the most influential Venetian artists in the history of modern jewelry – it strikes the eye as fresh and individual, with a feminine, light and surrealist twist. Most of these bold pieces are implemented in gold-plated brass and enamel. Each piece is handmade, hence absolutely unique and one-of-a-kind.

 

A self-taught jewelry designer, Samuel sculpts from wax the models for his pieces, and then works closely with the jewelers who cast them in metal and then enamel them.   Today, when skulls, skeletons and other macabre images on t-shirts, shoes and dresses are no longer considered taboo, these visual metaphors for the fragility and transience of life find new meaning in his extravagant and lavish, esoteric and surrealistic creations, spiced up with a dose of zesty humor.

The collection was inspired by Naples, renown for the cult of devotion to skulls which were believed to grant people’s wishes, and – as Samuel points out – by a very particular spot in the city: a bohemian, chic, little hotel, the Albergo del Purgatorio, which looks and feels like a boutique art gallery.   I

n Samuel’s vision, eerie motives are rendered in bright, cheerful colors, balancing jolly eclecticism with refined kitschiness and a bit of magic.

The collection is now available for admiration and purchase at Moda Operandi.

THE REVIVAL OF NATURE AND JOIE DE VIVRE: BUTTERFLIES BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD

FavoriteLoading

They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.  

Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.  

A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.  

Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.  

In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.

Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.   

Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.  

Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.

Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!  

Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.    

TIMELESS PEARLS BY MIZUKI

DO YOU LIKE PEARLS? OR DO YOU THINK THEY ARE OLD-SCHOOL? DON’T JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS BEFORE YOU HAVE SEEN THESE PIECES

FavoriteLoading

In an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Mizuki Goltz remarked that pearls have a sensuousness that can balance a sometimes-cold modernism.

Spring, summer, winter or autumn, these glowing spheres radiate soft, iridescent light, which brightens your face without stealing the spotlight but rather directing it towards the wearer’s eyes, cheekbones, neckline and dainty wrists.

The Tokyo-born New York jewelry designer Mizuki Goltz, winner of multiple awards including Town and Country’s 2017 Pearls of The Year, Pearl Design award at Centurion, and Pearl Design award at the Couture show in Las Vegas, employs her impressive cultural background, along with the knowledge and skills acquired through her studies of sculpture at the New York School of Visual Arts, to create elegant and modern pearl jewelry.

Mizuki jewelry is unique in its lightweight and contemporary aura, with a touch of nonchalant, flirtatious sensuousness. These pieces know no limits. They can be worn anywhere and on any occasion, and will never look excessive or heavy. An absolute win-win for both passionate pearl aficionados and cautious pearl sceptics!

Pearl Kansanshi Bar Earrings by Mizuki can be worn as a single earring or mixed with your favorite studs, ear cuffs or ear crawlers to create balanced and asymmetric, feminine and flirtatiously tomboyish combinations and to power up your creativity and imagination.

Refined and delicate, these pearl and gold bars will organically complement your image and draw pure and subtle light to your face.

Take a look at new Mizuki pearls on Moda Operandi!

LEGENDS OF STONE, AS TOLD BY ANNA WHITE

GEMS COME TO LIFE IN THE DESIGNS OF AN INTUITIVE STONE ARTIST, IMPASSIONED BY THEIR SECRETS

FavoriteLoading

A wizardess speaking to the stones and looking deep into their ancient mysteries.

A proud Russian beauty, with her piercing gaze and magnificent cascade of long, blond hair.

Anna White was born with a desire to create. As a child, she was always busy building and constructing, inventing and experimenting. She was born at that time in Russia when consumer culture was not yet a thing, you could not simply stop by the shop and find whatever your soul desired. Consequently (or genetically), she took her creative spirit from her father who was a master of invention, always coming up with genius ideas, little, daily masterpieces, derived from thin air.

 

 

Later in life, when Anna started buying and receiving gems as gifts, her search for an outlet for her creativity brought Anna to the realm of jewelry, where she found a way to live, breath, materialize and nurture her artistic offspring.

The way Anna works with stones is uncanny. Her instinct towards choosing the right stone is primal and profound: not only does she see, she also senses them. As I was listening to the tone of her voice, watching her facial expressions, it occurred to me that it is not mere admiration for stones as crude material for her creations, it is a fundamental understanding and respect towards them!

Empowering precious and semiprecious gems through her designs, she endows them with a frame of oxidized silver or gold. It’s a peculiar environment for the stones, and for people to comprehend and to wear them. The patina, created through oxidation (a kind of accelerated version of the natural tarnishing process), gives the metal an intentionally darkened, aged look. Thus, excessive luster, characteristic of polished metals, does not interfere with the natural beauty of the stones.

Anna’s approach to jewelry design is not overwhelmed by design itself. For her, the art of jewelry is an instrument for bringing the stones into our world. It is intriguing and refreshing how she does not obsess over big or extravagant gems, but rather contemplates and exposes the character of each stone, its magnetism, the secret microcosm and the ancient myths behind its facets.

In their powerful and beautiful relationship, Anna and the stones act as each other’s integral parts and harmonious continuation.

The enigmatic, primeval minerals come alive in the hands of this miracle worker, with her eagle eye for the beauty and her ear for the fairy tales told by each and every carefully selected and cherished gemstone.

They will talk to you too, snugly settled on your ears and neck, wrists and fingers.

TALES OF THE FLOATING CITY: ESCALE À VENISE BY CHANEL

SEVENTY MARVELOUS JEWELS TELL THE STORY OF THE ITALIAN WONDER IN THE LANGUAGE OF PRECIOUS METALS AND STONES

FavoriteLoading

Travelling the world through books – a romantic, affordable and eye-opening childhood experience for most of us.  

For Coco Chanel, books were more than just entertainment: they fuelled her imagination, giving her travel and education without leaving her room, allowing Chanel to discover countries, cultures and arts, which later influenced her legendary creations.  

In January 2016, Venice even hosted an exhibition “La Donna Che Legge” (“The Woman Who Reads”), a glimpse into Coco Chanel’s literary tastes, friendships and her relationships with books, writers, poets, artists and musicians.  

Back in the 1970s, Roland Barthes, the French literary critic, wrote in an article for Marie Claire magazine: “If you were to open a text about the history of literature today, you would find in it the name of a new classic author: Coco Chanel. Chanel does not write using paper and ink (except as a pastime), but with fabric, forms, colors.”[1]  

Chanel will always be Chanel.  

At the beginning of this year, the iconic fashion house presented a new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” (translated as “Stopover in Venice”): 70 pieces, of which 22 are one-of-a-kind, four brooches in a limited edition of five, as well as five high jewelry watches.  

The collection takes you to the engineering marvel of the world, the city of masks, bridges, romance and Murano glass, and submerges you in the colors, architecture and atmosphere of this extraordinary place – and Coco Chanel’s greatly loved destination – even if you have not yet had the good fortune to see it in person.  

Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, invites you to travel to this unique location not, this time, through the pages of books but through the facets of gemstones; to experience its indescribable grandeur through the colors of intricate enamel, layers of precious metals, the flight of imagination and the remarkable skills of Chanel’s jewelers.   

Symbolic depictions of blue-and-white mooring poles, ribboned boater hats, baroque lions from the facade of Saint Mark’s Basilica – the guardians and the spirit animals of Venice – the deep blue of the its starry skies, the tesserae of Byzantine architecture, scattered throughout the city… It takes an eminent mastermind to collect all the pieces of this mosaic and arrange them into an unparalleled object of jewelry art while staying true to the spirit of the city and to Chanel, firing people’s imagination without spiraling into clutter and chaos. It takes Patrice Leguéreau to do that.   

“Escale à Venise” is a collection with many faces, offering a contemporary interpretation of the different emblems of the Floating City. It consists of four parts: Sérénissime, Gran Canale, Isole della Laguna, and Spirito de Venezia.  

Sérénissime is the traditional name of the Republic of Venice or, in Venetian, Serenìsima Repùblega Vèneta – a sovereign state and maritime republic, which existed from 697 to 1797. It offers an intriguing interpretation of Venetian architecture: the facades of its palaces, the multicolored marble floors and mosaics of its churches, rendered in paragon, geometric lines, baguette-cut and round diamonds, warmed by the soft hues of Padparadascha and mandarin sapphires and rose gold.  

Gran Canale was inspired by the Venetian waterways: the big and small canals, brightly spotted with gondoliers’ hats, reimagined as whimsical cocktail rings, with ribbons set in red and black enamel and diamond pavé, as well as the blue-and-white mooring poles, dreamed up in the blue enamel and diamond pavé of earrings, necklaces and bangles.  

Isole della Laguna plays with the theme of camellia, Coco Chanel’s best-loved flower. Inspired by Venetian Murano glass, this iconic blossom is given new meaning and structure in rock crystal, hand-carved into the shape of the classic Chanel camellia, punctuated with diamonds and set in yellow gold.  

Spirito de Venezia contemplates the image of the lion – Coco Chanel’s astrological sign and her favorite talisman – and the blue-and-gold starry scene on the rooftop of Saint Mark’s Basilica. The winged lion on the Basilica is guarding the Bible on Chanel’s one-of-a-kind ring – an impressive pear-shaped diamond.  

High jewelry by Chanel is almost impossible to put into words. Beautiful? Beyond compare. Stunning? Absolutely. One-of-a-kind? Without question.  

Their new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” captures the heart and soul, colors and shapes, air and mood of the city and translates them so precisely into the language of beauty and art that even a person who has never been there can say: This is Venice!  

Let the “Escale à Venise” jewels speak for themselves. Give in to their charm. Listen to their story…          

 

[1] “Si vous ouvriez aujourd’hui une histoire de notre littérature, vous devriez y trouver le nom d’un nouvel auteur classique: Coco Chanel. Chanel n’écrit pas avec du papier et de l’encre (sauf à ses moments perdus) mais avec de l’étoffe, des formes et des couleurs […].” (source: Identités visuelles (Formes sémiotiques) by Jean-Marie Floch).    

CLASSIC PEARLS SHOWING THEIR TEETH IN SCHIAPARELLI’S INTERPRETATION

EDGY BRACELET AND EARRINGS BY THE SURREALIST MAISON

FavoriteLoading

Look closer. Much closer. What do you see?  

They look classy and classic but once you realize what they really are, you are bound to smile.  

On closer inspection, the splendid, huge, white pearls are… teeth!  

Each gold-colored tooth is clutching a massive, teardrop-shaped pearl.  

The Large Tooth Earrings and Tooth Bracelet in gilded brass with white pearls, from Schiaparelli’s Autumn–Winter 2020/21 Ready-to-Wear collection are a direct expression of the temperamental and unpredictable nature of the Maison.  

The founder of the Maison, Elsa Schiaparelli, was always balancing on the edge of surreal glamour. Experimenting and remodeling classics, submerged in the spectacular art of her close friends Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp and Jean Cocteau, she brought the avant-garde and eccentric vision of art into fashion.   

The innovative and influential artist and designer who was the first to use brightly colored zippers and figural buttons resembling small brooches in her clothing designs, the visionary inventor of “Shocking Pink” – the ultra-bright magenta hue – Elsa was not one to err on the side of safety.  

Nor was status quo her territory, whether in color choices or in the cuts and shapes of her clothes. Schiaparelli’s divided skirts – predecessors of the modern, chic culottes – caused a straight-out scandal and condemnation by the conservative British press back at the beginning of the 20th century. She challenged, recolored and reshaped what was considered fashionable in sharp contrast to her elegant rival, Coco Chanel, creator of the minimalist, ultra-feminine little black dress.  

Schiaparelli reputedly referred to Chanel as to “that dreary little bourgeoisie” and “that milliner”, while Mademoiselle Chanel backlashed with a dismissive “that Italian artist who makes clothes”. Coco Chanel is even said to have tried to set Elsa on fire at a high-society costume ball, just before the outbreak of World War II.  

Their takes on jewelry were also diametrically opposite: Chanel’s understated, simple elegance versus Schiaparelli’s unrestrained, never-before-seen shapes and colors.  

Today, Maison Schiaparelli continues to produce cool and edgy clothing and jewelry. They dressed Michelle Obama for Barack Obama’s second inauguration and Lady Gaga when she performed The Star-Spangled Banner, America’s national anthem, at Joe Biden’s inauguration.

Daniel Roseberry, Artistic Director of the Maison, summarizes its philosophy in a razor-sharp comment to Vogue (link: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-couture/schiaparelli): “It’s just something that’s not as polite as couture typically tends to be.”  

The powerful statement Tooth Earrings and Bracelet by Schiaparelli capture the glorious and most amusing moments of life, the phantasmagorical and hilarious moments of our existence, with the unstoppable creativity and imagination of the Maison’s designers generating an alternative vision to the ubiquitous white pearl classics.  

INFINITY IN HER EYES, ETERNITY IN HER EARS: HOOP EARRINGS BY TAFFIN

FLIRTATIOUS, TIMELESS AND ULTRAFEMININE, THE HOOPS ARE BACK

FavoriteLoading

Can a man know a woman so well that he can create exactly what she wants?

In a moment of doubt, I recalled James Taffin de Givenchy, a jewelry designer, an expert in exotic gems and the founder of TAFFIN – the eponymous couture jewelry house, creator of pieces that are both zesty and experimental.

James Taffin de Givenchy is an alchemist, balancing emotion, intellect and logic to design one-of-a-kind objects of wearable art.

His easily recognizable designs often feature unconventional materials: rubber, ceramic (Taffin’s signature ingredient), wood, even steel from recycled AK-47s, resulting in thrilling challenges and, on occasion, a royal pain for the house’s jewelers who must find ingenious and innovative solutions to bring those imaginative projects to life. And, ultimately, pure joy for the women who will be wearing them!

Among James’s recent, dreamy creations are large hoop earrings: a delicate lace of carved white jade, sprinkled with rose gold ceramic and turquoise beads.

Time and time again, I’ve come back to these mesmerizing, semitranslucent jade circles: looking for the perfect angle, the perfect light, the perfect painting to reveal their transcendent beauty and breezy vibes. My many searches have at last come to an end with the intriguing portrait of a woman by Chris Gambrell.

Hoop earrings are as old as time. In Ancient Egypt, even cats were pictured with hoops in their ears. Bast, or Bastet – the Egyptian goddess of home, fertility and childbirth, protector of home from evil spirits and disease, embodiment of gracefulness and affection – was sculpted and portrayed as a black cat wearing a gold necklace and gold hoop earrings.

That said, they never fall out of fashion. Throughout a history of ever-changing tastes, trends and styles, these eye-catching classic circles, symbols of eternity, might sometimes accidentally disappear from the horizon, only to make an even more ambitious and spectacular comeback.

The hoops by TAFFIN are back!

For woman, for the goddess, and for a stunning amalgamation of both.

ICONIC SHAPES FOR ALL TIMES AND EVERY WRIST: CALLA BRACELETS BY VHERNIER

ASTOUNDING AND TIMELESS, CALLA BRACELETS HAVE BECOME EVEN MORE COMFORTABLE AND CLOSER TO THE SKIN

FavoriteLoading

Gold and titanium, monochrome and mixed, metal-only and adorned with signature diamond pavé, with large and medium-sized links, the Calla bracelets by Vhernier are a recognizable, versatile and unique attribute of style, equally capable of elevating а chic, casual outfit or amplifying the splendor of а sublime evening gown.

The Italian jewelry house has transformed the fragile essence of the calla flower into an iconic, rhythmic and meditative succession of precious cones.

Lean, elegant and sensual, the emblematic Calla line by Vhernier, encompassing necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants, has evolved since its conception in 1999, becoming slimmer, more curved and ergonomic to comfortably embrace wrists, fingers, neck and ear lobes without breaking the original aesthetics of the series.

Our favorite version of Calla bracelets with diamond pavé is captivating: viewed from one angle, the diamonds are “hiding”, leaving the pure, laconic, titanium and gold links in pristine glamour. As you rotate your hand, the subtle diamond circles reveal themselves. The smooth cones turn into tiny, stylized rockets, shooting gentle, shiny flames into space around your wrists.

Contemporary and archetypal, the timeless Calla bracelets are a perfect adornment for every stylish wrist.

THE TRANSCENDENT. THE WISE. THE BEAUTIFUL. THE WOMAN

IN CELEBRATION OF EVERY WOMAN AND EVERY MOTHER

FavoriteLoading

It has become common practice to talk about women and men, femininity and masculinity in terms of Yin and Yang – contradictory, yet inseparable opposites. Women, the traditional representatives of Yin energy, have been celebrated as the sweet, gentle safekeepers of life, while men are destined to conquer, dominate and protect.

But the woman of today is, herself, both Yin and Yang. Balancing ever-increasing demands of family and career, she stands tall as a stronghold of ]opposing powers and idiosyncrasies: а svelte entrepreneur corralling a bunch of happy toddlers; an uncompromising politician with a weak point for her grandkids; a cool-headed brain surgeon who writes children’s books as a hobby; a lightning-fast sprinter, supporting dogs in an animal shelter.

Even when those opposing forces are not as dramatic, they are always there – softness and backbone, daintiness and solidity, centuries-old wisdom and contemporary intelligence – in every woman, in every single one of us. Just look inside to find it.

That is how I discovered the color red: the color of daring, of courage, the lipstick of a femme fatale, the color of fragrant wild strawberries, and of blood, which, let’s face it, is the inescapable companion of every birth, every new life.

Strong, spirited and beautiful: I chose this color as a statement to celebrate Women’s Day and Mother’s Day this year.

The symbolism behind the crimson red earrings from Sylvia Furmanovich’s Amazonia Bamboo collection is striking: the artist turns this common plant, an ordinary building material and food product in South, East, and Southeast Asia, into refined pieces of art. Through her daring designs, attention to detail and passion for traditional and innovative craftsmanship, her mix of precious and semiprecious stones, pearls and metals, she elevates the humble, yet strong and resilient bamboo to the dizzying heights of spicy, delicate and feminine refinement.

This is the quintessence of all the beauty in the world, which would never have happened were it not for the women.

Happy Women’s Day!

And Happy Mother’s Day!

Pin It on Pinterest