HERMÈS CARRÉ CLUB: HOW THE MAGIC HAPPENS 

IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE IN PARIS AT THE END OF NOVEMBER OR BEGINNING OF DECEMBER, YOU ARE IN LUCK! EVEN IF YOU HAD PLANS TO BE SOMEWHERE ELSE, YOU MIGHT NOW RETHINK THEM.

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From November 29 to December 8, the Carreau du Temple market in Paris will host a “Hermès Carré Club” exhibition, dedicated to the creation and design of the legendary Hermès scarves and fabrics. 

Every Hermès scarf is a perfect square. But do not make a mistake thinking: ‘It is only a scarf, a rectangular piece of textile’. There is nothing ‘only’ about Hermès. From the first scarf in 1937 and up to this day, the amount of hard work invested in these heavenly light and deceptively material creations is unfathomable. The legend has it that the process of making one scarf, from conception to the final stitches, may take up to a year and a half.

Timeless Hermès scarves have become true artworks, admired, avidly collected and sought after like the most valuable jewelry. Every scarf tells a tale: from traditional hunting motifs to arabesques and fantastic, illusory modern designs. When you have it on, you are wearing a piece of art, a silky dream, an accessory of true actresses, aristocrats and queens.

If you have ever wondered how the Hermès masterpieces are borne, this exhibition offers a one-of-a-kind, perfect chance. You will visit workshops and discussion groups, see the silky Hermès fabrics, witness the creation of a Hermès scarf, meet the designers, learn the art of tying a scarf, while listening to live music at the Carré Cafe. You can even buy your first—or twenty-first!—Hermès scarf to start, or supplement, your collection.

The Hermès Carré Club exhibition is open from November 29 to December 8 at the Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène-Spuller, 3rd arrondissement, Paris. Free entry, on reservation (open from November 19), every day from 12 pm to 8 pm. The exhibition also offers late evening visits—until 10 pm—on Friday, November 29; Thursday, December 6; and Friday, December 7.

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THE AWAKENING OF FIVE SENSES BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

ADMIRE the artworks of two amazing women: Silvia Furmanovich—an unparalleled, daring Brazilian jewelry designer, and Helene Schjerfbeck—a bold, revolutionary Finnish portraitist. Coming from different parts of the world and historical epochs, their pieces synthesize in an anthem to a beautiful, spirited and progressive woman.
A woman who will always be an inspiration, no matter the time and place on Earth…

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Silvia Furmanovich is a unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry. Her eloquent masterpieces arouse more than the sense of vision: you can smell the fresh and autumnal leaves, rainforests, the deep woodiness and the light grassiness; you can hear the rustle of dry branches under the soft paws of wild animals, the airy breath of the wind under butterfly’s wings, the soft sound of wind chimes. You can almost taste it: the alluring precious stones melting on your tongue like delicious, colorful drops of candy, counterbalanced by sweet and salty, woody licorice. And you sure can touch it: the natural shapes, brought to life by Silvia’s imagination and the Nature herself, the geometric lines and the soft curvatures, the perfectly balanced substance and lightness.

Inspired by nature and transformed into inimitable masterpieces, balancing somewhere in between delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, with the most unexpected combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, miniature paintings on wood, seashells and even mushrooms, these designs are strong, noticeable, full of color and life. Butterflies, birds, sceneries, flowers, ornaments: the designer with an open mind and heart has travelled the world in search of inspiration and skills that would bring her collections to the peak of creation, ready to see, absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures and indigenous artisans.

The three pieces, worn by a charismatic young lady of Helene Schjerfbeck, are marquetry landscape fan earrings (gold, light brown diamonds and green tourmaline), botanical marquetry cuff (gold and diamonds), and marquetry red leaf fan earrings (gold, prasiolite and light brown diamond).

As mesmerizing as they are, they represent only a miniscule part of the Silvia Furmanovich’s collection. Much more of this sensual beauty is available for all your five senses at the Moda Operandi trunk show.

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LES CIELS DE CHAUMET: WATCHING THE SKY THROUGH PRECIOUS FACETS

BIRDS AND CLOUDS. STONES AND GOLD. STARS AND SUNS.

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Touch the sky. Catch the birds. Fly with the clouds. Dive into the lightning. Impossible?

Not anymore, if you know where to look. Maison Chaumet, the Parisian jewelry house since 1780, presents a new 2019 High Jewelry collection, evoked by the skies—Les Ciels De Chaumet: celestial masterpieces for graceful terrestrial beings.

The name of the collection is the direct reference to the creator’s muse. The jewelers of the Maison drew inspiration in the clear and cloudy skies, the radiance of the sun, the movement of the stars, the bolts of lightning; in the paintings of Picasso and Matisse, Van Gogh and Turner; in the poems of Nerval and Mallarmé. Tiaras and brooches, necklaces and earrings—the free-flowing rhapsodies to woman’s beauty, contemporary femininity, delicate symbolism behind every piece.

The collection is stunning: light, delicate, young-spirited, modern and perfectly balanced. Comprised of so many stones, the pieces—bound to look massive and heavy—look airy and fresh. Through the incredible color combinations and artisan craftsmanship, Chaumet substantializes the metamorphoses of the sky, gives them shape, transforming emotions into intricate masterpieces.

The collection comprises four themes, four moods of the sky: the evanescent clouds and the whimsical lightning in Les Caprices du Ciel; the nuances of the sun in Les Couleurs du Ciel; the beaming stars in Les Fulgurances du Ciel; and the precious birds in the Les Habitants du Ciel.

Our favorite pieces, all in white and yellow gold, are the ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ ring, set with an Imperial topaz, yellow sapphires and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ ring, set with diamonds; ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ earnings, set with Imperial topazes, pink morganites, sapphires, onyx and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ earrings, set with yellow sapphires and diamonds; and ‘Envol’ earrings, set with diamonds, tsavorite garnets, and yellow and green sapphires.

The powerful, elemental symbols behind these oeuvres d’art speak to the innermost essence of the celestial dome, glorified and feared by our ancestors and vastly explored, yet still keeping many secrets, in the modern ages.

The traces of falling stars in the earrings, the lace of constellations in the diadems, the modulations of capricious storm in the necklaces. Now you know where to look—to rediscover the skies…

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The VHERNIER Universe: nonconformist, ALLURING JEWELRY SCULPTED FOR MODERN WOMEN

A rare opportunity to get hold of atemporal, sophisticated, futuristic Vhernier pieces at the Moda Operandi trunk show. Shop your favorite pieces online.

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Started by a sculptor and a connoisseur of jewelry back in 1984, this tradition of the house of Vhernier is carried on by the highly skilled master goldsmiths of the house up to this day.

Each piece of jewelry is shaped like a miniature modern structure, a one-of-a-kind avant-garde building, with an eye toward the environment where it will be exhibited. Like the graceful Italian architectural masterpieces are developed bearing in mind their surroundings, the precious pieces of Vhernier jewelry are crafted with the view of the wearer’s body and the ambient space.

The soft, geometric shapes, the flowing twists, the most unexpected blending of diamonds and ebony, rose gold and jet, titanium and kogolong, the precision of stonesetting pay a tribute to the unique style and intricate technology, classiness and confidence, futuristic beauty and innovation. The sophisticated, experimental, unorthodox spirit of the Milanese house brings its jewelry beyond the realm of reality and fashion.

The pieces themselves are often impressive in size but never heavy or overbearing, their clean lines and laconic fluidity laying the foundation for the recognizable style. This distinctive Vhernier paradox echoes the dual nature of a modern woman: strong yet graceful, captivating yet subtle.

A classy woman that is wearing cool chic Vhernier pieces can never be forgotten….

Illustration by INKYCUBANS

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NEW DIOR GRAND BAL. WATCH THE WATCH DANCE

AN ETHEREAL WALTZ OF DIAMONDS, FEATHERS AND GOLDEN THREADS TO THE SOUNDS OF LUXURIOUS TICKING… 

A well-dressed gentleman on the Felix Vallotton’s painting waiting for someone. The woman… The sweetheart… the lover…

The time will come—and he will hear the door creak and see tiny splashes of light reflecting from filigree diamonds on the graceful wrist.

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Dior is out with а new, absolutely charming version of Dior Grand Bal. Without losing their functionality, Dior watches have become a true Fine Jewelry fashion piece, a combination of art and technology. A unique technique of incorporating feathers, embroidered with diamonds, melts the boundaries between high-tech and nature, airiness and imperishability.

Watch the black feathers do an atmospheric dance against the zoisite dial, enclosed in a golden ring and surrounded by diamonds. The brightly lit royal halls, to the sound of Straussian waltz, riffle of ball gowns and whisper of court ladies, gossiping about Her Majesty’s affair,— continue in this innovative, mesmerizing, intricate masterpiece.

The contrast between green, gold and red transcends into perfect classiness. This Dior Grand Bal watch shows more than time—it shows timelessness…

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Van Cleef & Arpel’s Treasure of Rubies

VAN CLEEF’S “TREASURE OF RUBIES” COLLECTION PAYS HOMAGE TO HISTORY WITH A COLLECTION OF 60 ONE-OF-AKIND PIECES SHOWCASING THE RUBY IN ITS EXCEPTIONAL SPLENDOR. 

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One of the world’s most dazzling and sought-after jewels, the ruby gemstone has inspired poets and warlords for generations. Its evocative red hue can take on tones from bright ember to blood red, making it the most primally evocative of the big four gemstones. High jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has paid homage to the ruby since 1906, incorporating it into some of its most expressive creations, and has released a collection in the stone’s honor.

Van Cleef’s Treasure of Rubies collection pays homage to this history with a collection of 60 one-of-a-kind pieces showcasing the ruby in its exceptional splendor. The journey to collect the 3,000 carats of certified rubies used in the collection began in 2016 and has yielded a veritable treasure trove of red hues which Van Cleef has leveraged in its latest set of creations.

 

Each piece is exceptional, but a number of them stand apart. Among these is the incredible Priya transformable long necklace, set in pink gold and featuring one carved ruby of 25.23 carats, 214 ruby beads for 123.09 carats, pink sapphires, white pearls, and diamonds. The Jardin de Rubis necklace is a reinterpretation of summer woodland berries scattered across the neckline and giving way to a beautiful 18.12 carat ruby with remarkable purity and color.

The Treasure of Rubies collection is more than a celebration of the ruby: it’s in keeping with Van Cleef’s long tradition of quality and creativity using the stone, from its use in the first Mystery Set pieces, including the 1937 Double Peony clip, to Jacques Arpel’s 1982 declaration that rubies were his favorite stones. Nearly 40 years later, the tradition stands perhaps more firmly than ever before.

Illustrations by @alicavanaugh 

 

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Boardroom Fairy Tales: The Return of the Tiara

DON’T MISS THE LAST WEEK TO SEE THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXHIBITION “CHAUMET IN MAJESTI” AT THE GRIMALDI FORUM OF MONACO UNTILL THE 28TH OF AUGUST!!!

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You may only associate tiaras with princesses and fairy tales, but they’re making a comeback. We suspect it’s a conflation of the global elite’s creative play coupled with newly reinvigorated female empowerment, but tiaras have found their way into the jewelry cabinets and even boardrooms (!) around the world.

Regardless their use (the boardroom example is real – one Chinese businesswoman is said to occasionally don a tiara during special business gatherings), tiaras are always a statement, an exclamation point – and a distinctly feminine one at that.

One jewelry house notably has tiaras on lock: Chaumet has made tiaras for over 200 years, with their oldest example dating to 1811.Chaumet was commissioned to create a tiara for Empress Josephine in the late 19th century and has over 3,000 tiaras in its archive; they continue to produce a limited number every year, may of which are special orders for powerful women looking for something special. In a world seeking differentiation and distinction, the elegant tiara is again taking its place as queenmaker.

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Feeling emotional

NIKOS KOULIS’ LATEST COLLECTION IS A BRILLIANT RETHINKING OF THE SNAKE CHAIN 

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I am not usually a fan of the snake chain. When I try one on, it never feels quite right.
Until I came across Nikos Koulis’ take on the snake chain I presumed this was because it was a style of jewelry best suited to women in their 20s. But the Greek jeweler who won the the Best in Gold category at this year’s Couture Design Award has changed my mind.
I love the knot silhouettes in his latest collection Feelings, and the way white and yellow gold are woven around diamonds and black enamel. It’s very cool indeed. Inspired by the designer’s childhood memories of the boat ropes he would see while walking though island ports, ‘feelings’ are exactly what this sensitive, creative collection elicits in me, too.

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ALIGHIERI [ Perfect Imperfection ]

Italian literature and Swiss sculpture inspire London jewelry…

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When I first came across London designer Rosh Mahtani’s perfectly imperfect jewelry my thoughts turned immediately to the extremely tall and slender figurines of Alberto Giacomo, one of the most important sculptors of the 20th century.
The Swiss artist once said of his trademark eroded surfaces that he was not sculpting the human figure but the “shadow that is cast”. I see that same sensibility in the gold-plated pieces of Alighieri, a collection Mahtani says was inspired by the Divine Comedy.
(All the slides are shoppable, beautiful Alighieri jewelry is available for you online)

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Chanel High Jewelry collection : Coromandel [ Something to screen about]

“I’m like a snail. I carry my house with me. Two Chinese screens, books everywhere. I’ve never been able to live in an open house. The first thing I look for is screens,” Coco Chanel

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Her precious 17th and 18th century Coromandel screens, discovered in the 1910s, were everything to Coco Chanel. They followed her from residence to residence, and were also constantly on the move in her various homes, detaching, reducing, masking and magnifying doorways, fireplaces and mirrors according to her needs and desires. For Coco, décor was a poetic landscape in which she liked to lose herself across the oceans and the centuries.

The imaginary world of Coromandel is the inspiration for this poetic collection of 59 pieces that is designed around the floral, animal and mineral themes depicted on the Chinese screens. Coco’s signature flower, the Camellia, birds just about to take flight and the French fashion designer’s love of crystal and gemstones – as they appear in the screens, they feature in the jewelry. It is ingenious and hypnotic!

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Butterflies in Flight

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American artist J.Louis’ dreamy interpretation of the female form evokes Van Cleef’s billowing of a butterfly’s wings beautifully.

It can take a lifetime to find your style, but at the tender age of 26 I think J. Louis has already got it.
The expressive faces of his peaceful feminine figures are married beautifully with abstract blocks of raw colour, and when I first came across his work my thoughts turned immediately to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Between the Finger ring and earrings.

I love that the emblem of the butterfly in flight continues to provide design inspiration for the maison’s stunning additions to its spring 2019 collection. And I also love how the deep blue of lapis lazuli contrasts with the warmth of yellow gold and the glitter of diamonds in these pieces: iconic Van Cleef & Arpels asymmetry inspired by nature.

@thejlouis @vancleefarpels

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Silvia Furmanovich’s Marquetry

Silvia Furmanovich is a powerhouse of Brazilian jewelry. Her work is famously rich and sumptuous, incorporating organic material while exploring global culture and staying evocative of her native Brazil. Her collection, Marquetry, is a conscious celebration of the country’s most precious resource: the Amazon rainforest.

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The collection was inspired by Furmanovich’s encounters with artisans of the Amazon, where she was introduced to their innovative and environmentally conscious approaches to the decorative arts. Marquetry, the classical furniture inlay decoration technique, is brought to an entirely new level with this collection, which leverages all-nautral dyeing techniques and renewable woods to create individual jewelry pieces that are light, wearable, and detailed beyond belief.

These native woods are reclaimed from the forest floor, not cut from living specimens. The incredible colors and textures can be traced back to artisans’ deep knowledge of the environment, a knowledge that can be obtained only from generations of time spent living in what most of us would consider an “untamed” environment, observing the effect of natural phenomena on wood. For example, some colors in the collection naturally occur when wood is submerged in water for a prolonged period.

“Pairing the tones and textures of indigenous salvaged wood with rare and precious gems, gold and diamonds creates a beautiful effect,” she says. “I love the mixture of materials. I don’t have a prejudice against using common materials like seashells or pieces of wood with gold and diamonds. I want to make something that matches what I’m looking for; it doesn’t have to be ‘precious’. Mixing precious with common is beautiful.”

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BEST APHORISM FROM KARL

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KARL LAGERFELD QUOTES:

WOMEN:

“The woman is the most perfect doll that i have dressed with delight and admiration.”

“The only love that I really believe in is a mother’s love for her children.”

FASHION:

“Never use the word “cheap”. Today everybody can look chic in inexpensive clothes (the rich buy them too). There is good clothing design on every level today. You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans — it’s up to you.”

“One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a Little Black Dress.”

“Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants.”

“Fashion is a language that creates itself in clothes to interpret reality.”

“I am a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes — it’s about all kinds of change”

“I want everyone to wear what they want and mix it in their own way. That, to me, is what is modern.”

“A respectable appearance is sufficient to make people more interested in your soul”

WORK:

“Don’t sacrifice yourself too much, because if you sacrifice too much there’s nothing else you can give and nobody will care for you “

“People who do a job that claims to be creative have to be alone to recharge their batteries. You can’t live 24 hours a day in the spotlight and remain creative. For people like me, solitude is a victory.”

“Clear thinking at the wrong moment can stifle creativity.”

WORLD/ PEOPLE:

“We live in a dark and romantic and quite tragic world.”

“Dieting is the only game where you win when you lose!”

“Don’t look to the approval of others for your mental stability”

“What i like about photographs is that they capture a moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce.”

“People who say that yesterday was better than today are ultimately devaluing their own existence.”

“When people talk about the good old days, I say to people, ‘It’s not the days that are old, it’s you that’s old.’ I hate the good old days. What is important is that today is good.”

“Music gives color to the air of the moment.”

ABOUT KARL:

“I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.”

“Books are a hard-bound drug with no danger of an overdose. I am the happy victim of books.”

“I love classic beauty. It’s an idea of beauty with no standard.”

“I like to reinvent myself — it’s part of my job.”

“Normally, I don’t recommend me for wedding dresses – they all get a divorce.”

“I will not talk about that. I like to read biographies, history, philosophical things like this. But it’s for my private use, and not for making people say, Oh, how clever this stupid man is. I don’t make intellectual conversation. I’m very superficial. I’m just a fashion designer. Fashion designers look at fashion magazines, right?”

“Why should I stop working? If I do, I’ll die and it’ll all be finished. ‘m lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored.”

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Everyday Luxury: Vhernier

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What better way is there to show how much you love a jewelry house than to wear their pieces every day? I’ll admit, I’m ready to wear Vhernier every single day. Their pieces are simple, but bold and eye-catching statements of strength and elegance.

As much as jewelry is a way of channeling our creativity and aesthetic, it’s can also direct and symbolize our mood and feelings. Vernier’s strong, structural, architectural jewelry gives me a sense of determination and technology that vibes perfectly with the modern world we live in. They’re little architectural masterpieces.

Here we present a couple of Vhernier classics and a new piece that channel this sensibility. The Vhernier Abbraccio is on the left and Tourbillion on the right. They’re both designed to be worn on the right hand (per Vernier’s attention to design and detail), but the Abbraccio can be worn on the left as well.

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Writing That Sparkles

Maison Chaumet Presents ‘Brillantes Ecritures’ Exhibition,22nd February – 1st April 2019, Paris

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Chaumet shows that jewelry and literature are a natural pairing.

The maison’s fans will know that throughout its history Chaumet has been a source of inspiration to men and women of letters. From Balzac to Dumas, Wharton to Rostand, Collette, Olga Picasso and Alfred de Musset, the list is long and distinguished. Now Chaumet is telling the story of its fascinating links with writer clients and literary figures in Brillantes Ecritures, an exhibition that brings together romantic novels, society columns, historic jewels and archive documents.

From February 22 to April 1, at 165 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris

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Reflections on St. Valentine’s Day 2019

Love is complex, and while St. Valentine’s Day simplifies it into gifts, chocolate and flowers. The Jewelry Icon brings another lens to the endeavor.

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We have to admit, the ranks of The Jewelry Icon are filled with skeptics. One might think that because we cover the most incredible jewelry, and so often the creation and history of such pieces is associated with love and passion and grand families, that we would be taken with the idea of St. Valentine’s Day. But that’s not quite the case. It’s not about love – we live for love, whether with lovers or children or family. It makes the world go round. But it’s the total commercialization of the holiday that we object to, the idea that someone needs to bring something expensive home for the holiday or they “don’t love me.” That’s just not true and it’s an unhealthy way to look at relationships. So, we have some ambivalence. But we do still love jewelry, so check out a few of our favorites for this year and remember that love isn’t like the movies and is about more than romantic love: it’s the glue that binds people together.

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ALHAMBRA TRAVELS …

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A NEW YORK TIMES ARTICLE ABOUT THE EMOTION BEHIND PERSONAL ORNAMENTS TRIGGERED FEELINGS ABOUT MY JEWELRY ATTACHMENTS.

 

With the creeping years I get increasingly attached to my jewelry. Treasured rings, bracelets and necklaces  almost become  my companions. I remember special occasions when I wore them, what I was thinking and feeling at the time, the jewelry tells stories.

When it comes to my absolute favorite pieces, like my vintage Alhambra, I’m so attached I live in fear of losing them. This is jewelry that I want to pass on to my children. All of which means I find this article in the New York times fascinating: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/30/fashion/jewelry-personal-stories.htmlIn Jewelry, Their jewely has become part of these people, and I understand that.

Spirited and quirky, Van Cleef’s spirited Lucky Charm is another piece that might well find its way into my family’s jewelry box.

 

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