NEW BOUCHERON CHAINS – A GAME CHANGER IN LUXURY JEWELRY

HOW CAN SOMETHING AS TRIVIAL AND MUNDANE AS A HEADPHONE JACK TRANSFORM INTO AN ITEM ADMIRED AND DESIRED BY MANY…
THE BOUCHERON JEWELERS HAVE MIXED A COCKTAIL OF IMAGINATION, MODERN DESIGN AND A DROP OF MAGIC – TO RESTYLE THIS LOW-KEY OBJECT INTO AN ICONIC CHAIN OF OUR TIME.

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The allure of the new Boucheron chains lies both in their contemporary minimalism and in their straightforward paradoxicality: inspired by a plain headphone jack, the magnetic chain clasp is now in the spotlight of attention rather than carefully hidden on the periphery of the precious piece.

Besides, it is fun!

These playful multi-functional chains, which come in white and yellow gold, with or without diamonds, can be worn in endless ways and combinations: as necklaces, bracelets, headpieces or even belts, as standalone pieces or combined with each other and other jewelry. Their design makes them easily matchable with any outfit—formal or informal, evening or casual, while their flexibility makes them perfectly adjustable to the shape of the body.

Available in short and long versions, this innovative jewelry untethers your imagination and breaks new ground for reinventing the ways luxury jewelry may be worn. Try it on—and you can feel the music moving up and down the supple chains, in infinite circles, embracing your neck and waist, coiling and uncoiling around your wrists, the golden melody flowing along with your mood.

Take a closer look at these ingenious creations at the Moda Operandi trunk show.

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MYSTERIOUS RUSSIAN SOUL, ADORNED WITH CHANEL’S JEWELS

The dazzling glare of snowflakes in the frosty winter sun, the honey-sweet blossom of summer meadows, the colorful, expressive embroidery of a loose-fitting shirt. This is probably not how you see Russia today: on the news, in the whirlpool of political intrigues. But this is how you will see her if you look into the classic literature of the past centuries: glorified by poets and romanticized by writers.

Tatiana (being Russian
at heart, herself not knowing why)
loved, in all its cold beauty,
a Russian winter:
rime in the sun upon a frosty day,
and sleighs, and, at late dawn,
the radiance of the rosy snows,
and gloam of Twelfthtide eves.
 
Eugene Onegin. A Novel in Verse by Aleksandr Pushkin

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ILLUSTRATION INCYCUBANS

The new High Jewelry Collection ‘Le Paris Russe de Chanel’, presented to the art and jewelry aficionados in summer 2019, is a tribute to Coco Chanel’s love for Russia and Russians.

Coco Chanel was many things. She had been rising from the ashes like a phoenix and reinventing herself and the story of her life so many times that sometimes it was hard to tell the truth from the flight of her imagination. But what she was for sure is a woman who loved: intensely and passionately. It is an open secret that Coco Chanel had an affair with a genius and scandalous Russian-born composer and pianist Igor Stravinsky and an alluring Russian Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovich, who later introduced her to the Russian culture and the aristocrats fleeing the country, torn by revolutions and uncertainty. Thus started Chanel’s romance with Russia and the ‘Russian period’ in her creations. The motifs and cuts of traditional shirts roubachkas, the imaginative ornamentation of traditional headdresses kokoshniks, the vibrant colors of sarafan dresses—all found their way into her Russia-inspired collection.

Decades have passed, and the style was rediscovered by Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel jewelry studio. And thus, from the amalgamation of folklore and imperial symbols—the two otherwise polar opposite dimensions,—a new transplendent collection was born. The motifs, running like a golden thread through the entire collection, are easily recognizable: the cuts, the shapes, the two-headed eagles, the headpieces, the colors and ornaments. Yet, the pieces have been adapted to fit the modern context: by preserving the Russian flavor and sentiment, grandeur and sumptuousness but mixing in a touch of extranational mood. The jewels and the beauty of ‘Le Paris Russe’ transcend the borders of countries and nations and rise above the worldly life with its dramas and conspiracies.

Among the 69 unique pieces, our favorite are the Aigle Cambon ring in white gold and diamonds, the Blé Maria brooch in white and yellow gold with a yellow sapphire, pink spinels, Mandarin garnets, colored tourmalines and diamonds, and the Roubachka necklace in yellow gold and platinum with yellow and white diamonds.

They—and all other artworks in this exquisite collection—are nowhere near subtle and modest. They say: rich, blinding, beautiful, majestic. And thus they will look coupled with the Little Black Dress—the iconic creation of la Grande Mademoiselle.

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HERMÈS CARRÉ CLUB: HOW THE MAGIC HAPPENS 

IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE IN PARIS AT THE END OF NOVEMBER OR BEGINNING OF DECEMBER, YOU ARE IN LUCK! EVEN IF YOU HAD PLANS TO BE SOMEWHERE ELSE, YOU MIGHT NOW RETHINK THEM.

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From November 29 to December 8, the Carreau du Temple market in Paris will host a “Hermès Carré Club” exhibition, dedicated to the creation and design of the legendary Hermès scarves and fabrics. 

Every Hermès scarf is a perfect square. But do not make a mistake thinking: ‘It is only a scarf, a rectangular piece of textile’. There is nothing ‘only’ about Hermès. From the first scarf in 1937 and up to this day, the amount of hard work invested in these heavenly light and deceptively material creations is unfathomable. The legend has it that the process of making one scarf, from conception to the final stitches, may take up to a year and a half.

Timeless Hermès scarves have become true artworks, admired, avidly collected and sought after like the most valuable jewelry. Every scarf tells a tale: from traditional hunting motifs to arabesques and fantastic, illusory modern designs. When you have it on, you are wearing a piece of art, a silky dream, an accessory of true actresses, aristocrats and queens.

If you have ever wondered how the Hermès masterpieces are borne, this exhibition offers a one-of-a-kind, perfect chance. You will visit workshops and discussion groups, see the silky Hermès fabrics, witness the creation of a Hermès scarf, meet the designers, learn the art of tying a scarf, while listening to live music at the Carré Cafe. You can even buy your first—or twenty-first!—Hermès scarf to start, or supplement, your collection.

The Hermès Carré Club exhibition is open from November 29 to December 8 at the Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène-Spuller, 3rd arrondissement, Paris. Free entry, on reservation (open from November 19), every day from 12 pm to 8 pm. The exhibition also offers late evening visits—until 10 pm—on Friday, November 29; Thursday, December 6; and Friday, December 7.

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THE AWAKENING OF FIVE SENSES BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

ADMIRE the artworks of two amazing women: Silvia Furmanovich—an unparalleled, daring Brazilian jewelry designer, and Helene Schjerfbeck—a bold, revolutionary Finnish portraitist. Coming from different parts of the world and historical epochs, their pieces synthesize in an anthem to a beautiful, spirited and progressive woman.
A woman who will always be an inspiration, no matter the time and place on Earth…

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Silvia Furmanovich is a unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry. Her eloquent masterpieces arouse more than the sense of vision: you can smell the fresh and autumnal leaves, rainforests, the deep woodiness and the light grassiness; you can hear the rustle of dry branches under the soft paws of wild animals, the airy breath of the wind under butterfly’s wings, the soft sound of wind chimes. You can almost taste it: the alluring precious stones melting on your tongue like delicious, colorful drops of candy, counterbalanced by sweet and salty, woody licorice. And you sure can touch it: the natural shapes, brought to life by Silvia’s imagination and the Nature herself, the geometric lines and the soft curvatures, the perfectly balanced substance and lightness.

Inspired by nature and transformed into inimitable masterpieces, balancing somewhere in between delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, with the most unexpected combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, miniature paintings on wood, seashells and even mushrooms, these designs are strong, noticeable, full of color and life. Butterflies, birds, sceneries, flowers, ornaments: the designer with an open mind and heart has travelled the world in search of inspiration and skills that would bring her collections to the peak of creation, ready to see, absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures and indigenous artisans.

The three pieces, worn by a charismatic young lady of Helene Schjerfbeck, are marquetry landscape fan earrings (gold, light brown diamonds and green tourmaline), botanical marquetry cuff (gold and diamonds), and marquetry red leaf fan earrings (gold, prasiolite and light brown diamond).

As mesmerizing as they are, they represent only a miniscule part of the Silvia Furmanovich’s collection. Much more of this sensual beauty is available for all your five senses at the Moda Operandi trunk show.

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LES CIELS DE CHAUMET: WATCHING THE SKY THROUGH PRECIOUS FACETS

BIRDS AND CLOUDS. STONES AND GOLD. STARS AND SUNS.

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Touch the sky. Catch the birds. Fly with the clouds. Dive into the lightning. Impossible?

Not anymore, if you know where to look. Maison Chaumet, the Parisian jewelry house since 1780, presents a new 2019 High Jewelry collection, evoked by the skies—Les Ciels De Chaumet: celestial masterpieces for graceful terrestrial beings.

The name of the collection is the direct reference to the creator’s muse. The jewelers of the Maison drew inspiration in the clear and cloudy skies, the radiance of the sun, the movement of the stars, the bolts of lightning; in the paintings of Picasso and Matisse, Van Gogh and Turner; in the poems of Nerval and Mallarmé. Tiaras and brooches, necklaces and earrings—the free-flowing rhapsodies to woman’s beauty, contemporary femininity, delicate symbolism behind every piece.

The collection is stunning: light, delicate, young-spirited, modern and perfectly balanced. Comprised of so many stones, the pieces—bound to look massive and heavy—look airy and fresh. Through the incredible color combinations and artisan craftsmanship, Chaumet substantializes the metamorphoses of the sky, gives them shape, transforming emotions into intricate masterpieces.

The collection comprises four themes, four moods of the sky: the evanescent clouds and the whimsical lightning in Les Caprices du Ciel; the nuances of the sun in Les Couleurs du Ciel; the beaming stars in Les Fulgurances du Ciel; and the precious birds in the Les Habitants du Ciel.

Our favorite pieces, all in white and yellow gold, are the ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ ring, set with an Imperial topaz, yellow sapphires and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ ring, set with diamonds; ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ earnings, set with Imperial topazes, pink morganites, sapphires, onyx and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ earrings, set with yellow sapphires and diamonds; and ‘Envol’ earrings, set with diamonds, tsavorite garnets, and yellow and green sapphires.

The powerful, elemental symbols behind these oeuvres d’art speak to the innermost essence of the celestial dome, glorified and feared by our ancestors and vastly explored, yet still keeping many secrets, in the modern ages.

The traces of falling stars in the earrings, the lace of constellations in the diadems, the modulations of capricious storm in the necklaces. Now you know where to look—to rediscover the skies…

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The VHERNIER Universe: nonconformist, ALLURING JEWELRY SCULPTED FOR MODERN WOMEN

A rare opportunity to get hold of atemporal, sophisticated, futuristic Vhernier pieces at the Moda Operandi trunk show. Shop your favorite pieces online.

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Started by a sculptor and a connoisseur of jewelry back in 1984, this tradition of the house of Vhernier is carried on by the highly skilled master goldsmiths of the house up to this day.

Each piece of jewelry is shaped like a miniature modern structure, a one-of-a-kind avant-garde building, with an eye toward the environment where it will be exhibited. Like the graceful Italian architectural masterpieces are developed bearing in mind their surroundings, the precious pieces of Vhernier jewelry are crafted with the view of the wearer’s body and the ambient space.

The soft, geometric shapes, the flowing twists, the most unexpected blending of diamonds and ebony, rose gold and jet, titanium and kogolong, the precision of stonesetting pay a tribute to the unique style and intricate technology, classiness and confidence, futuristic beauty and innovation. The sophisticated, experimental, unorthodox spirit of the Milanese house brings its jewelry beyond the realm of reality and fashion.

The pieces themselves are often impressive in size but never heavy or overbearing, their clean lines and laconic fluidity laying the foundation for the recognizable style. This distinctive Vhernier paradox echoes the dual nature of a modern woman: strong yet graceful, captivating yet subtle.

A classy woman that is wearing cool chic Vhernier pieces can never be forgotten….

Illustration by INKYCUBANS

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NEW DIOR GRAND BAL. WATCH THE WATCH DANCE

AN ETHEREAL WALTZ OF DIAMONDS, FEATHERS AND GOLDEN THREADS TO THE SOUNDS OF LUXURIOUS TICKING… 

A well-dressed gentleman on the Felix Vallotton’s painting waiting for someone. The woman… The sweetheart… the lover…

The time will come—and he will hear the door creak and see tiny splashes of light reflecting from filigree diamonds on the graceful wrist.

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Dior is out with а new, absolutely charming version of Dior Grand Bal. Without losing their functionality, Dior watches have become a true Fine Jewelry fashion piece, a combination of art and technology. A unique technique of incorporating feathers, embroidered with diamonds, melts the boundaries between high-tech and nature, airiness and imperishability.

Watch the black feathers do an atmospheric dance against the zoisite dial, enclosed in a golden ring and surrounded by diamonds. The brightly lit royal halls, to the sound of Straussian waltz, riffle of ball gowns and whisper of court ladies, gossiping about Her Majesty’s affair,— continue in this innovative, mesmerizing, intricate masterpiece.

The contrast between green, gold and red transcends into perfect classiness. This Dior Grand Bal watch shows more than time—it shows timelessness…

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Van Cleef & Arpel’s Treasure of Rubies

VAN CLEEF’S “TREASURE OF RUBIES” COLLECTION PAYS HOMAGE TO HISTORY WITH A COLLECTION OF 60 ONE-OF-AKIND PIECES SHOWCASING THE RUBY IN ITS EXCEPTIONAL SPLENDOR. 

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One of the world’s most dazzling and sought-after jewels, the ruby gemstone has inspired poets and warlords for generations. Its evocative red hue can take on tones from bright ember to blood red, making it the most primally evocative of the big four gemstones. High jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has paid homage to the ruby since 1906, incorporating it into some of its most expressive creations, and has released a collection in the stone’s honor.

Van Cleef’s Treasure of Rubies collection pays homage to this history with a collection of 60 one-of-a-kind pieces showcasing the ruby in its exceptional splendor. The journey to collect the 3,000 carats of certified rubies used in the collection began in 2016 and has yielded a veritable treasure trove of red hues which Van Cleef has leveraged in its latest set of creations.

 

Each piece is exceptional, but a number of them stand apart. Among these is the incredible Priya transformable long necklace, set in pink gold and featuring one carved ruby of 25.23 carats, 214 ruby beads for 123.09 carats, pink sapphires, white pearls, and diamonds. The Jardin de Rubis necklace is a reinterpretation of summer woodland berries scattered across the neckline and giving way to a beautiful 18.12 carat ruby with remarkable purity and color.

The Treasure of Rubies collection is more than a celebration of the ruby: it’s in keeping with Van Cleef’s long tradition of quality and creativity using the stone, from its use in the first Mystery Set pieces, including the 1937 Double Peony clip, to Jacques Arpel’s 1982 declaration that rubies were his favorite stones. Nearly 40 years later, the tradition stands perhaps more firmly than ever before.

Illustrations by @alicavanaugh 

 

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Boardroom Fairy Tales: The Return of the Tiara

DON’T MISS THE LAST WEEK TO SEE THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXHIBITION “CHAUMET IN MAJESTI” AT THE GRIMALDI FORUM OF MONACO UNTILL THE 28TH OF AUGUST!!!

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You may only associate tiaras with princesses and fairy tales, but they’re making a comeback. We suspect it’s a conflation of the global elite’s creative play coupled with newly reinvigorated female empowerment, but tiaras have found their way into the jewelry cabinets and even boardrooms (!) around the world.

Regardless their use (the boardroom example is real – one Chinese businesswoman is said to occasionally don a tiara during special business gatherings), tiaras are always a statement, an exclamation point – and a distinctly feminine one at that.

One jewelry house notably has tiaras on lock: Chaumet has made tiaras for over 200 years, with their oldest example dating to 1811.Chaumet was commissioned to create a tiara for Empress Josephine in the late 19th century and has over 3,000 tiaras in its archive; they continue to produce a limited number every year, may of which are special orders for powerful women looking for something special. In a world seeking differentiation and distinction, the elegant tiara is again taking its place as queenmaker.

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Feeling emotional

NIKOS KOULIS’ LATEST COLLECTION IS A BRILLIANT RETHINKING OF THE SNAKE CHAIN 

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I am not usually a fan of the snake chain. When I try one on, it never feels quite right.
Until I came across Nikos Koulis’ take on the snake chain I presumed this was because it was a style of jewelry best suited to women in their 20s. But the Greek jeweler who won the the Best in Gold category at this year’s Couture Design Award has changed my mind.
I love the knot silhouettes in his latest collection Feelings, and the way white and yellow gold are woven around diamonds and black enamel. It’s very cool indeed. Inspired by the designer’s childhood memories of the boat ropes he would see while walking though island ports, ‘feelings’ are exactly what this sensitive, creative collection elicits in me, too.

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