Illustration by Inkycubans
Resistance to mass production? An emotional trigger? Originality? The artist’s identity?
Sometimes I catch myself thinking: if some of the talented artists had not become jewelry designers, what would they be doing instead? They would still be talented, successful and probably happy. The only ones to lose would be us—their admirers, followers and collectors who would miss out on exquisite pieces of this extraordinary, ancient and ever modern art.
With its laconic outline, absence of redundant, decorative details, classic, contrasting colors, elaborate composition of simple geometric shapes, and a strong, architectural silhouette that is both clean and clear, this enameled brooch—the dramatic and dynamic portrayal of a black and a white crow, holding a ruby-red stone in its talons—is not exactly typical for Ilgiz. Yet, it is a splendid reflection of all that he stands for: an artistic predilection for Art Nouveau, immaculate mastery of enameling, and the global idea behind art, plus the delicate conglomerate of a creator’s idea and the beholder’s profound emotional response.
The pieces by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, a miracle worker from Tatarstan, a two-time winner—Champion of the Champions—of the International Jewellery Design Excellence Awards, are admired by art aficionados and craved by both private collectors and gallerists in Russia and around the globe.
The chance of finding such an ingenious expert in enameling is remote, and yet, the artist did not study jewelry professionally: his knowledge and mastery were earned independently, through passion and ambition, perfectionism and perseverance, by trial and error.
Aiming to surpass himself with every new piece, he studied many different enameling techniques—Japanese, French, English, Russian—and developed his own signature, unique methods, including, but not limited to, the firing of enamel at 950℃, rather than the ‘classic’ 700–800℃, which allows him to achieve a total fusion of glass with the golden surface, as well as a one-millimeter-thick plique-à-jour enamel.
Ilgiz believes that the art of jewelry stands at the confluence of all art forms and technologies. A jeweler must know the basics of drawing, painting, sculpture, perspective, architecture, chemistry, physics and mathematics. He must not be afraid to dirty his hands. He needs to make the metal submit to his rules—and be able to put it all together – to create the ultimate masterpiece.
Aiming at perfection, he can redo a piece of jewelry again and again until he gets the desired effect: color gradations and nuances in the enameled petals of a flower or the feathers of a crow’s wings, which correspond both to the reality and to his creative idea.
Ilgiz’s pieces are so immaculate that they do not have a flip side: the back of every pair of earrings, necklace, brooch or ring is on a par with the front side.
Besides, Ilgiz rarely works ‘around the stone’; rather, he builds the stones, whether precious or not, around the idea to achieve the maximum embodiment of his brainchild.
The crows from the brooch are facing opposite directions, each holding a symbolic stone in their talons. What does the white crow see in our past? Why is the black crow looking at our future?
Despite the menacing juxtaposition of colors, both crows look contemplative and calm. They mean no threat.
These pieces by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov are for genuine art connoisseurs, valuing not just the name of the brand and value of materials, but also the artistry, aesthetics and creativity.
A timeless and priceless investment, if you’re considering one.
Despite widespread and powerfully promoted gender equality, in many spheres of modern life women remain precariously vulnerable and unprotected.
For this reason, on November 25 – International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women – luxury jewelry brand Pomellato launched a social media and video campaign to raise awareness on domestic abuse.
Pomellato’s initiative is a tremendous breakthrough for luxury brands. Conceptually distant from the real world, submerged deep into the divine microcosm of art, design and unsoiled, supermundane beauty, they often appear to be dramatically detached from the facts of life.
And yet, who to support women and raise awareness of the hot-button gender issues better than a brand that stands for women, their freedom and independence.
With that in mind, in 2017 Pomellato founded the platform #PomellatoForWomen to promote gender equality and inclusivity.
And it shows no sign of letting up. Not until abuse and violence against women has stopped.
On MK Nuvola (Italian for ‘cloud’) rings, timeless beauty by Pomellato. Let us hope that the beautiful clouds stay in artistic realm – and we soon see the bright sun above our heads in real life…
I was nudged to smell the Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose perfume by my seven-year old daughter, who was genuinely in love with it. To be honest, I was reluctant even to try it: the name, the notes, the very concept did not speak to me. But once I gave it a go, in a flash I knew: That’s my A.! This smell is all about her! Lipstick Rose—a love-it-or-leave-it aromatic concoction of grapefruit and violet, sweet rose, iris and raspberry, sensuous and fluffy vanilla and white musk—was developed by one of Frederic Malle’s legendary perfumers, Ralf Schwieger, famous for his ability to create intellectual and intuitive perfumes with surprising personalities.
It’s a perfume that makes everyone sense something different. A time travel machine, for some, taking you back to your childhood home, secretly poking around the taboo contents of your mother’s dressing table, trying on her crimson red lipstick, playing at being a grown-up woman for the first time. The dressing room of a 50’s pin-up girl, with, luxuriant, shiny, dark hair, ruby-red lips, smouldering gaze and a killer smile. A go-to office perfume: indulgently sweet, dressy and sexy, but with a demure hint of ‘stay away’ attitude. The delicious allure of the divine Marilyn Monroe. The smell of semi-dark theatres. The ‘big girl’ perfume of real Divas, with a sense of humor and touch of modern irony. The gourmand, bottled essence of the X chromosome.
The modern retro Lipstick Rose smell makes its glorious return and complements with elegance the Phoenix earrings and the femininity of the present-day, ultimate woman.
Illustration by Ellie Rahim
Et dès que je l’aperçois
Alors je sens en moi
Mon cœur qui bat
Edith Piaf, La Vie En Rose
The meaning of those words by the legendary singer Edit Piaf—‘And when I see him, inside I feel my heart pounding’—applies to every piece by the avant-garde Parisian jeweler Lydia Courteille.
Each of Lydia’s masterpieces is looking for that one and only person, the perfect fit for her surreal creations, someone who will not need to look and think twice before making up their mind and choosing them.
It has to be love at first sight…
This seductive collection, La Vie en Rose, is a tribute to the glamour, tantalizing charm and romanticism of Paris.
The powdery pink of morganites is complemented by delicate lacing and bows, adding a subtle touch like exquisite lingerie, evoking the delightful and fresh smell of a rose flower, inviting you to draw closer, open up to your senses and enjoy the sight of both the jewels and the wearer.
Chandelier earrings in pink gold and titanium, encrusted with fancy sapphires and morganites, conjure up images of spicy samba headdresses from the Rio Carnival, the spectacular headpieces of cabaret dancers, fronds of palm trees against the dark skies, and the dancing fountains of a big city on a sultry summer night, illuminated by colorful lights.
To complement the earrings, or to be marveled at on its own, is the statement ring in yellow gold, morganite, pink sapphires and rubies, as well as black and white diamonds.
Extraordinary and entrancing, they reveal the world behind them.
This could be your world: full of mystery, seduction and strong character.
The full sensual force and sophistication of the jewels reveal their true colors against the clean and feminine lines of illustrations by Ellie Rahim.
Whether a believer in astrology and the stories of our lives as told by the stars, or a science-minded sceptic and astronomer, everyone will find something in these small, rough-hewn golden plaques, each depicting a reimagined astrological sign on one side and a classic astrological symbol on the other.
The twelve pendant necklaces, both antique- and modern-looking and archeological in spirit, were inspired by unconventional designs from the 60s discovered in David
Webb’s archives, and his fascination with the ancient world.
The rectangular pendants in yellow gold, or in yellow gold encrusted with diamonds, are carved with the history of the iconic jewelry house and constellations of ancient meaning.
These unique, versatile and precious objects can become your one-and-only talisman and faithful companion to your casual, everyday style, or complement and enrich an extravagant jewelry ensemble for an elegant soirée.
A HUMBLE YET CHARISMATIC GARDEN FLOWER BECOMES A SEDUCTIVE EARPIECE IN THE HANDS OF CHOPARD’S JEWELERS
Illustration by Inkycubans
They are part of Chopard’s Red Carpet 2020 collection, inspired by the beauty of Nature. Conceptualized by the Maison’s Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele, it celebrates both strong and fragile species of flora and fauna as a symbolic tribute and statement of the brand’s journey towards sustainable and ethical jewelry, It’s a mark of respect towards both natural resources and human labor.
Once I heard a wistful old Russian tale about a girl named Anyuta who is turned into a flower after many years of waiting for her boy to return from war. Since then, pansies are called in Russian “Anyuta’s eyes” and this gentle flower grows by the roadside, looking into the distance, in the hope that the sweetheart will come back, safe and sound.
The portrait of a woman by contemporary artist Lolita Pelegrime—slightly edgy, capturing with bold, chaotic strokes the expression and colors —yearns to wear this stellar creation by Chopard, radiating delicate and powerful energy, intense and gentle hues, as well as its life-affirming balance of art, beauty and extraordinary finesse.
Aluminum is much lighter than gold, which makes it possible for the artist to conceptualize and create sizable, dramatic pieces without worrying that they might permanently ruin the wearer’s ears. Fashioned from recycled rainbow-hued aluminum and gold vermeil, laboratory-grown trillion- and cushion-cut emeralds, pavé-set canary and white diamonds, peridots, tourmalines and emeralds, with detachable flower studs, they seem to defy laws of gravity.
To turn trash into treasure, in the truest sense of the word, Anabela Chan recycles aluminum cans, giving them new lives in her dreamy creations.
The cans are cut and melted at extreme temperatures to remove impurities and excessive porosity and create a smooth surface for the application of rich, vivid colors. The lava-like, sizzling metal is then poured into ingots to obtain the delicate petals, which are later color-treated using a method known as physical vapor deposition, a process in which the material goes from a condensed phase to vapor and back to the condensed phase, producing a thin film on the surface.
As complicated and technical as it may sound, the results are always elegant, exhilarating and jolly.
On top of all that, in their mischievous yet extremely thoughtful approach to luxury jewelry, Anabela Chan and her team pursue ethical sustainability: they use only lab-grown stones of the highest quality, with all the beauty and optical qualities of natural gems, but untainted by armed conflict, poor working conditions, risks to human lives and other mining-related safety and environmental hazards.
See for yourself: can you spot a can in this miraculous beauty?
Have you ever heard of ‘albedo’? It’s a measure of the amount of light reflected by the surface rather than being absorbed by it. Things that appear white reflect most of the light that hits them, hence a high albedo, while dark objects absorb most of the light so their albedo is low.
An important word in my store of knowledge and the way I perceive the world, with all its beauty and deformities, smooth flow and rough edges, light and darkness.
The new capsule ‘Ice Cube’ collection by Marion Cotillard and Chopard is the ultimate manifestation of balance between luxury and consciousness, sublime beauty and the mindful journey towards it.
Ice reflects light energy back to space, thus protecting the Earth from overheating. This has been an integral part of stabilizing the global climate for millennia. The ‘Ice Cube’ collection reflects a more ethical and sustainable form of luxury, thus raising the bar for future high jewelry collections, designs and technologies.
Inspired by the bulky and powerful shape of the cube, the gorgeous and creative Marion deconstructs classical shapes and points of view to turn them into enigmatic, edgy and always feminine jewels.
Full of energy, radiance and Marion’s inestimable charm, this versatile set, with easily combinable pieces, is suitable for either day or night, Super Bowl or elegant soirée—a relaxed, refreshing and contemporary way to wear diamonds.
The geometric and asymmetric shapes, miniature ice cubes incorporated into the laconic and seductive parure, are composed of a diamond ring and six asymmetric earrings, echoing Nature’s raw, asymmetric yet logical ways. The clip earrings, intended for both non-pierced and pierced ears, can be worn separately or stacked in all sorts of different combinations.
A tribute to timeless beauty, resolute femininity and natural balance, Marion’s and Chopard’s ‘Ice Cube’ collection merges the laws of art with the laws of Nature to create a refined tandem of gold and ice, ethics and diamonds.
A dazzling and modern collection to adorn the quintessential Woman.
Your mind and senses enter the Alcazar Ring from the fantastic world of Aisha Baker’s ‘Mirror Mirror’ jewelry collection.
The sophisticated architectural projection of a miniature building – inspired by European royal palaces and alcazars – brings about a bewitching and breathtaking mix of colors, geometrical patterns and emotions.
It’s an artistic agglomeration of precious blocks, staircases and secret chambers of gold, with stained glass windows of colorful gemstones and the mystical symbols of Aisha’s signature enamel embellishments, such as paisley, fish and five-pointed stars. You might almost expect invisible gears to start spinning and for this magical structure to start moving, rebuilding and redesigning itself the very moment you blink or look away.
Aisha Baker’s interpretation puts together the alcazars of Seville and Toledo, Segovia and Cordoba to create an intricate and unique fortress to fuel your fantasies.
An impressive ring that will never become boring.
So beautiful and seductive, it is almost unreal.
An offspring of the imagination of Cartier’s Creative Director, Jacqueline Karachi, it draws your attention to two exceptional beryls, with white, yellow and brown diamonds spreading like roots from their base.
On the back of the impressive, soft green beryls, clear as mountain lakes, rests an extraordinary structural detail: diamond armature—an astonishing framework of diamond drops, shining through the transparent, gleaming beryl ponds.
The leaves of Tillandsia—an unusual air plant which inspired this necklace,—are covered with cells capable of quickly absorbing water from the air and from surfaces. In a similar fashion, the diamond pavé shines like tiny droplets of life-giving water, absorbed by the necklace and keeping it alive and magnificent.
These bizarre plants cling naturally and prosper on tree branches, bark, rocks, even shifting desert sands.
The Cartier Tillandsia necklace wants to cling to your delicate neck. Airy and heavenly, mesmerizing and luscious—a supernatural masterpiece by a true artist.