A UNIQUE TRADEMARK TECHNIQUE HELPS THE JEWELRY DESIGNER CREATE PIECES LIKE NO OTHER.
Lightness, transparency and gentle colors, with gems held together as if by magic, visually not supported by any structure: jewelry designer Feng J uses her own, unique, innovative “Floating set” technique to make the gems appear to be floating in air, reflecting, refracting and allowing light to pass through them – to enhance the effects of phenomenal transparency, weightlessness and luminosity, as well as defying the laws of gravity.
The idea behind this signature technique is to reduce the weight of a piece by minimizing the amount of gold holding the stones together, while simultaneously retaining the large scale of the creation.
In these delicate, harmonious pieces, the stones are hand-picked and custom-cut by hand into 1–1.2 mm double rose-cuts and allocated the one and only correct place in the design, which may take months.
The Calla Lily Ring in emeralds, rose-cut diamonds and double rose-cut yellow sapphires and tsavorites will sumptuously embrace your wrist with its elegantly curved, electroplated green-colored gold bangle arm.
The Dreamland Butterfly Brooch in chrysoberyl, yellow quartz, tsavorites, marquise white diamonds, diamond beads and electroplated gold is a creature from a wonderland where production and implementation, as well as the invisible metal structure holding the entire piece together seems like a dream.
The Green Willow Leaf Earrings in green tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyls, tanzanites, aquamarines, white diamond and electroplated gold quietly sway in the warm, late-spring air and soak up rays of light, emphasizing their refreshing colors.
The Yellow Ginkgo Leaf brooch – in double rose-cut yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, rose-cut round diamonds, pear-shaped diamonds and gold – brings joy and energy on its vibrant, sunny leaves.
In the Green Lily of the Valley Bangle in double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyls, tanzanites, aquamarines, diamond beads, white diamond and electroplated gold, Feng J’s signature “Floating set” technique brings fantastic naturalism into the artwork, made even more delicate with its open, organic structure, all achieved through superb craftsmanship.
WHO WOULD BE THE PERFECT WEARER FOR THESE EARPIECES? I SAY: ALICE IN WONDERLAND.
Twisting, fragile baby mushrooms. The roots of an exotic, fragrant flower. Reflections of the morning sun in the sky. The half-dreamy world we enter straight after exiting the Land of Sleep.
What was the inspiration for this piece. These earrings by the Spanish jewelry brand Siete Gallery are amongst those rare creations where it just doesn’t matter. Soft and delicate, decisive and straightforward candy-like drops from a fairy-tale. They are simply beautiful.
Siete Gallery, better known as SIE7E, is a family-owned jewelry business, born as a gesture of love and respect by a designer and gemologist Guillermo Martorell to his wife Mamen Puchada, for whom the number 7 bears special significance.
“Jewelry is one of the accessories with the most emotional bond”, says Guillermo. The eclectic and bohemian SIE7E pieces are born out of a dialogue between experiential design and artisan tradition, and made by hand, down to the last detail, in their own atelier.
Avant-garde and temperamental, with a touch of forever classics, they are meant to awaken emotion and find their one and only owner, who will tame them, love them and become one with their dreamy nature.
Whether you’re an oddball Alice in Wonderland or a clear-headed rocket scientist, welcome to the world of SIE7E – the world of magic, dreams and wonder.
SOFT PALETTE AND A PROVOCATIVE STONE-SETTING TECHNIQUE – WHAT COULD SCREAM “HEMMERLE” LOUDER THAN THIS?
Brown is a tricky color. Depending on the entourage, it can be incredibly chic or unbearably dull. Framed in black, it might look too heavy, framed in gold – too mainstream.
Instead, the designers of Hemmerle have surrounded earthy, Indian painted rocks with deep pink, turning these earrings into a dreamy and contemporary piece.
The reverse-set pavé is Hemmerle’s signature design. Rebellious and punkish, these gradient, spiky diamonds and umba sapphires, set in patinated copper and white gold, add a spicy, prickly sensation to the otherwise tranquil atmosphere of brown-and-pink cabochons.
To achieve this effect, the gems are set upside down. Thus, the whole idea of stone-setting makes a U-turn, making it a perfect fit for both avant-garde designers and rebellious wearers. “We draw inspiration from nature’s textures; from cacti and succulents to pineapples, durians and arbutus,” explained Christian Hemmerle. This technique adds unexpected angles, reflections, tones and brilliance to the traditional gems.
In these Hemmerle earrings, I see shadows of animals and trees in the evening savanna, caught in the warm pink of the sunset. What do you see?
DRAMATIC AND TRANSCENDENT BEAUTY FROM A LYRICAL JEWELRY BRAND – FOR DREAMERS AND FOR BELIEVERS
From the orchards and forests of the Bible came timber, giving humans a chance to make fire and cook food. Trees are always close to us, offering energy, air, beauty and hope; shadow on a hot summer day, warmth on a cold hiking night.
Trees made us what we are now. Studies say that a surge in the size of the human brain, which happened around 1.8 million years ago, could be directly linked to this innovation in cooking: the possibility of roasting meat, fish and vegetables over fire – a process that made it easier for the human gut to absorb calories. Were we still eating an exclusively raw, unprocessed diet, we would have to spend more than nine hours a day eating to get enough energy for our amazing and exceptionally large brains!
In Jewellery Theatre’s Tree of Life Earrings, strong, white gold branches hold diamond drops – the rest is up to your imagination.
Founded in 1998, Jewellery Theatre soon found its way and established itself on the luxury goods market. The ideas of the brand spin around the philosophy of combining life with art, fantasy with reality, through a sure-fire recipe that mixes the genius of outstanding designers and the skill of master jewellers with a tasteful addition of theatricality.
As for the Tree of Life Earrings: what emotions do they bring out in you? Thoughts about the meaning of life? Joy? Wonder? Sweet sorrow? A powerful emotional outburst?
The human brain, nurtured by oxygen produced by the trees, will keep wondering. Always.
FRESH… LIGHT…DELICIOUSLY REFINED!
As Spring kicks in with full force, body and soul are longing for airiness and joy.
The Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings by award-winning jewelry designer Anabela Chan unify the delicacy of leaf veins in citrus-hued recycled aluminium, white gold and rhodium vermeil, and the transparency of lab-grown and simulated clear white diamonds, yellow sapphires and canary citrines.
The earrings come from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, which was inspired by the magic and marvels of the ocean depths.
Although unable to travel much due to the pandemic, Anabela Chan found a way to explore the deep waters through the eyes and camera lenses of her friends, Valentine Thomas – a former lawyer, now a freediver, chef and sustainable seafood expert – and underwater photographer Lily Wang.
Characteristic of all Anabela’s jewels is their unique recognizability: each piece is different, yet you can instantly tell who is behind their creation.
In her designs, she uses lab-grown gems and recycled metals, focusing on ethical and sustainable materials, techniques and innovations.
For this collection, Anabela opted for waste metals found in the oceans and on polluted beaches, to contribute to the restoration of marine ecosystems. For every creation sold, the Anabela Chan jewelry brand pledges, through Sustainable Surf’s SeaTrees project (source: https://sea-trees.org/), to plant one hundred of the mangrove trees that thrive in coastal saline waters, protecting and restoring coastlines and the seas.
The aluminium used in the Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings, as well as other pieces from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, comes from recycled aluminium soda cans fished out from the ocean and is collected from beaches by eco enthusiasts as well as by Anabela and her own kids.
Spring is calling:
To be joyful.
To be kind to nature and to people.
To breathe in fresh air and bask in beauty…
EIGHT UNIQUE JEWELS, INCLUDING A SECRET TIMEPIECE, IN A NEW COLLECTION GLORIFYING THE MAGNIFICENT POWER OF OCEAN WAVES
Spilling waves, plunging waves, surging waves. Collapsing waves, tidal waves, progressive waves. Capillary waves, refracted waves, seiche waves.
Shallow wavelets, where children like to play, and dangerous reef breaks, tamed by daredevil surfers. Mellow ripples and dramatic tsunamis.
Some caused by the friction between surface water and the wind. Others, by the gravitational pull on our planet of the Sun and the Moon.
These powerful surges of energy have now been immortalised in the new high jewellery capsule collection Déferlante by Chaumet.
The Déferlante (“wave” in French) collection consists of eight pieces which make up a parure: a tiara set with 1,600 brilliant-cut and step-cut diamonds; a necklace, using Chaumet’s signature fil-couteau technique, where stones appear as if they are floating; two rings (one transformable); two sets of earrings; a brooch; and a secret watch with a Swiss mechanical self-winding movement, which comes in a limited edition of three pieces.
Combinations of white diamonds of different shapes and sizes cascade down intricate settings of white gold. Bold angles and clean, sculptural lines generate the sensation of movement, the bubbling murmur of the foam, the sparkling joy of splattering surf, and the majestic realization of the fragility of us, humans, when faced with the forces of nature.
How many times have you found yourself mesmerized by the vastness of the sea, watching the horizon, catching the movement of the waves, losing track of time?
Déferlante by Chaumet is exactly that: graceful as the poetry, powerful as the surge, timeless as the World’s oceans.
GENERATION AFTER GENERATION CONTRIBUTING BOTH TO THE WORLD OF BEAUTY AND TO THE WORLD OF PEOPLE
Following a massive earthquake in Armenia in 1988, the Boghossian family were among the first to measurably invest in the country’s reconstruction and fund multiple economic, educational and cultural activities in Armenian cities. Between 2006 and 2010, the Boghossian Foundation sponsored the design and renovation of the public Lovers’ Park in Yerevan. After a disastrous explosion of ammonium nitrate in Beirut in 2020, the Foundation provided Lebanese youth with emergency food rations, invested in rebuilding schools and awarded multiple scholarships.
These are just a few examples of the humanitarian and philanthropic work of the Boghossians: Lebanese jewellers of Armenian descent, who currently operate flagship stores in Geneva, London and Hong Kong.
The Boghossian jewelry brand is unique in the way they treat stones. Using signature, patented techniques – the Art of Inlay, the Kissing Stones, and the Merveilles – they keep their jewelry light, delicate and dreamy, allowing the stones to breathe and shine on their own, without the limitations posed by metal settings.
In the Art of Inlay technique, gems are carved and smoothly set within one another to create a bewitching contrast and interplay of colours. This method has been known from ancient times: the great Taj Mahal with its marble inlays is the most famous historic and artistic example and inspires many pieces of Boghossian’s jewelry.
In the Kissing Stones technique, the stones support and hold each other, as if in a passionate embrace, without the use of metal fixtures.
Meanwhile, in the sophisticated Merveilles technique, the gems look as if they are floating in air, freed from any golden backbone, creating an atmosphere of lightness and fluidity.
The development and refinement of these techniques must surely have taken many experiments, mistakes and shattered gems. The effort was worth it: today, exceptional and rare Boghossian jewels are highly sought after by art collectors and jewellery aficionados, and they are breaking world records at auctions.
Founded by Ovaness Boghossian back in 1868 at the centre of the Silk Road, the Boghossian brand does not rest on its laurels and stays strong in pursuit of its goals: to find harmony between Eastern and Western styles, to maintain perfect balance between cultural heritage and modern design, and to bring even more beauty and humanity into our world.
CULTURES, FABLES AND TRADITIONS FROM MANY DISTANT LANDS, UNIFIED IN JOYOUS AND COLORFUL DESIGNS
Forçat chains from traditional Creole jewelry. Mauli threads, crafted from used saris by artisans in Dhaka, India, which are said to protect the wearer. Hand-made Ghanaian beads, sourced from Krobo and Ashanti Ghana, which were once a form of national currency, now stemming from a know-how passed on from generation to generation. Golden chains handcrafted in Italy. French flair and emotionality.
Surely this is the very definition of “from all over the world”.
In her designs, Maria Lichtenberg has gathered colorful, meaningful and deep-rooted concepts, traditions and materials from many different countries and cultures, and transformed them into exquisite, fun and charming lockets.
Representing our purest and deepest feelings and desires, they come in a kaleidoscope of colors, emotions, materials and techniques. The uplifting mottos – Amour, Bonheur, Believe, Will Protect You Forever – are branded on the side of most of the jewels.
A traditional chain with a locket clasp that symbolizes emancipation and freedom in Creole culture was given to a teenage Marie by her mother – an artistic director at an advertising agency with Martiniquan roots, who also ran a small vintage jewelry boutique as a side business. “This style of Forçat necklace was crafted by slaves when they were freed,” explains Marie in her interview to Net-a-Porter (source: https://www.net-a-porter.com/en-us/porter/article-532ca0474f87e52a/jewelry-watches/fine-jewelry/marie-lichtenberg).
Later, after years of working as a fashion editor for the ELLE France magazine, this spiritual connection with jewelry evoked the ideas behind what has now become the Marie Lichtenberg brand.
To make her designs come to life, Marie cooperates with jewelry experts, and sources materials and components from across the globe.
Amongst others, the techniques used in her creations include sophisticated hand-enameling; guilloche – a decorative technique where intricate and repetitive patterns are mechanically engraved into metal with a rose engine lathe machine; repoussé and chasing – metalworking techniques where the metal is shaped by hammering it to create a low relief design.
Déja vu: my mother gives me a long-desired candy. Hidden in a bright, golden wrapper, it promises the most delicious, sweet and phantasmagoric tastes available in our world.
This is what Marie Lichtenberg’s brand stands for: heritage, good vibes, personal connections, unforgettable memories and new, wonderful stories to be shared with the special people in our lives.
The only drawback of these irresistible, bohemian and talismanic charmers is that one is never enough.
They will leave you wanting more!
WHAT CAN WE SAY WHEN THE SKY IS FALLING?
In these dark times how can we go to work and go about our daily routines when somewhere – not so far away – people just like you and me are losing everything they have: lives, health, homes, parents, children, friends, hopes, youth, love, freedom?
How can we, in our sophisticated, modern society, live with this?!
I remember, a decade ago, when I was just starting my career and trying to make sense of the fashion world, I admired Franca Sozzani (then editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia), who had a smart way of covering events happening around the globe: without polemic, but rather through incredible, expressive photoshoots.
I’ve promised myself that my art curation articles will never be subject to geopolitical context and opinions. However, today I’m finding it extremely difficult to stay neutral.
I continue working with a huge hole in my heart, praying for children who have lost their parents, for desperate mothers losing their young sons.
Time and time again I ask myself: isn’t it superficial to continue writing about material things such as art and jewelry when there is so much urgent pain? Today I had a tiny breakthrough:
There are no limits to ugliness, nor to beauty. There are no limits to pain, nor to happiness. There are no limits to how much people can destroy, nor to the beauty that they can create.
And there is also hope in the realization that there are still people around us who are able to create rather than to destroy.
Here is a piece of Nomis jewelry, born in Kyiv, Ukraine. A little piece from the fragile world of beauty, to represent the immense creativity and the beautiful people of Ukraine…
THE FRENCH JEWELER DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM ONE OF THEIR MOST IMPRESSIVE ORDERS OF THE PAST. BORING? AU CONTRAIRE – UTTERLY ASTONISHING!
If a Maharajah opened the doors of Boucheron’s studio today, what would he say?
The Maharajahs of India did not mind dressing up in the most expensive, sumptuous and rarе gems from tip to toe. The extravagant Maharajah Sir Bhupinder Singh, ruler of the princely state of Patiala from 1900 to 1938, was no exception – rather, an exemplary connoisseur of opulent and magnificent jewels.
According to Alain Boucheron, in 1927, the pompous arrival of the Maharajah to Place Vendôme was accompanied by caskets filled with a prodigious amount of precious stones -emeralds, sapphires, rubies and pearls (Master Jewelers by A. Kenneth Snowman).
A tribute to prosperity, high mastership and extreme beauty, Boucheron’s New Maharajah collection stands at the junction of two eras, two distinctive cultures and mindsets: those grandiose jewels created by Boucheron for the Maharajah of the past, and twenty-first century Europe.
Boucheron is building a bridge across centuries and continents. The Maison’s Creative Director, Claire Choisne, revisited one of the most desirable orders ever placed at Place Vendôme and figured out what they could offer to a modern Maharajah.
An epitome of jewelry tradition and history, this French luxury jewelry house, dating back to the 19th century, brings together advanced technology, cutting-edge craftsmanship, the highest industry standards and impressive heritage jewels.
In this new collection, curious and innovative Claire made a radical decision to use, with just a few exceptions, mainly transparent and white gems and metals: diamonds, pearls, rock crystal and white gold. She modernized the archive designs by resizing them and making them multifunctional, to fit the purposes and lifestyle of the contemporary international elite.
The New Maharani parure comprises three dramatic and delicate necklaces: the Majestic Lotus Necklace, the Crystal Necklace, and the Nacre Necklace, which were designed to be worn together. However, each of these masterpieces also shines on its own. Besides, the necklaces may be disassembled, rearranged and transformed into multiple wearable versions.
In the monochrome Majestic Lotus Choker Necklace, resembling, according to Claire Choisne, a diamond lace, diamonds intersperse with the pure drops of rock crystal to make the magnificent, transformable piece look featherlight.
The New Maharani Crystal Necklace, with several strands of carved stone crystal, interspersed with diamond details and white pearls, is closed at the back with cords and adorned with pearl tassels.
Meanwhile, the New Maharani Nacre Necklace has a large, flat tassel, crowned with a diamond and mother-of-pearl lotus flower, and can be transformed into as many as seven different forms, including a short necklace and two pearl bracelets.
Rock crystal symbolizes purity of thought, innocence and fidelity. The ten subtle New Churiyans Bracelets were inspired by the bangles of Indian brides. Their coquettish, tinkling sound is a subtle reminder of the wearer’s presence at any occasion and in any location. When not adorning the wrist, they can be stored on a mother-of-pearl bobbin, designed specifically for them.
The product of innovation and the inquisitive mind of the creators, this retrospect with its modern outlook is anything but old-fashioned. The advanced technology and design, the sublime, monochrome and tastefully transparent palette, intelligent and masterful use of beaming diamonds, opalescent pearls and water-clear crystal make for an astonishing result, bound to remain in the history of jewelry.