DRAMATIC AND TRANSCENDENT BEAUTY FROM A LYRICAL JEWELRY BRAND – FOR DREAMERS AND FOR BELIEVERS
From the orchards and forests of the Bible came timber, giving humans a chance to make fire and cook food. Trees are always close to us, offering energy, air, beauty and hope; shadow on a hot summer day, warmth on a cold hiking night.
Trees made us what we are now. Studies say that a surge in the size of the human brain, which happened around 1.8 million years ago, could be directly linked to this innovation in cooking: the possibility of roasting meat, fish and vegetables over fire – a process that made it easier for the human gut to absorb calories. Were we still eating an exclusively raw, unprocessed diet, we would have to spend more than nine hours a day eating to get enough energy for our amazing and exceptionally large brains!
In Jewellery Theatre’s Tree of Life Earrings, strong, white gold branches hold diamond drops – the rest is up to your imagination.
Founded in 1998, Jewellery Theatre soon found its way and established itself on the luxury goods market. The ideas of the brand spin around the philosophy of combining life with art, fantasy with reality, through a sure-fire recipe that mixes the genius of outstanding designers and the skill of master jewellers with a tasteful addition of theatricality.
As for the Tree of Life Earrings: what emotions do they bring out in you? Thoughts about the meaning of life? Joy? Wonder? Sweet sorrow? A powerful emotional outburst?
The human brain, nurtured by oxygen produced by the trees, will keep wondering. Always.
FRESH… LIGHT…DELICIOUSLY REFINED!
As Spring kicks in with full force, body and soul are longing for airiness and joy.
The Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings by award-winning jewelry designer Anabela Chan unify the delicacy of leaf veins in citrus-hued recycled aluminium, white gold and rhodium vermeil, and the transparency of lab-grown and simulated clear white diamonds, yellow sapphires and canary citrines.
The earrings come from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, which was inspired by the magic and marvels of the ocean depths.
Although unable to travel much due to the pandemic, Anabela Chan found a way to explore the deep waters through the eyes and camera lenses of her friends, Valentine Thomas – a former lawyer, now a freediver, chef and sustainable seafood expert – and underwater photographer Lily Wang.
Characteristic of all Anabela’s jewels is their unique recognizability: each piece is different, yet you can instantly tell who is behind their creation.
In her designs, she uses lab-grown gems and recycled metals, focusing on ethical and sustainable materials, techniques and innovations.
For this collection, Anabela opted for waste metals found in the oceans and on polluted beaches, to contribute to the restoration of marine ecosystems. For every creation sold, the Anabela Chan jewelry brand pledges, through Sustainable Surf’s SeaTrees project (source: https://sea-trees.org/), to plant one hundred of the mangrove trees that thrive in coastal saline waters, protecting and restoring coastlines and the seas.
The aluminium used in the Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings, as well as other pieces from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, comes from recycled aluminium soda cans fished out from the ocean and is collected from beaches by eco enthusiasts as well as by Anabela and her own kids.
Spring is calling:
To be joyful.
To be kind to nature and to people.
To breathe in fresh air and bask in beauty…
EIGHT UNIQUE JEWELS, INCLUDING A SECRET TIMEPIECE, IN A NEW COLLECTION GLORIFYING THE MAGNIFICENT POWER OF OCEAN WAVES
Spilling waves, plunging waves, surging waves. Collapsing waves, tidal waves, progressive waves. Capillary waves, refracted waves, seiche waves.
Shallow wavelets, where children like to play, and dangerous reef breaks, tamed by daredevil surfers. Mellow ripples and dramatic tsunamis.
Some caused by the friction between surface water and the wind. Others, by the gravitational pull on our planet of the Sun and the Moon.
These powerful surges of energy have now been immortalised in the new high jewellery capsule collection Déferlante by Chaumet.
The Déferlante (“wave” in French) collection consists of eight pieces which make up a parure: a tiara set with 1,600 brilliant-cut and step-cut diamonds; a necklace, using Chaumet’s signature fil-couteau technique, where stones appear as if they are floating; two rings (one transformable); two sets of earrings; a brooch; and a secret watch with a Swiss mechanical self-winding movement, which comes in a limited edition of three pieces.
Combinations of white diamonds of different shapes and sizes cascade down intricate settings of white gold. Bold angles and clean, sculptural lines generate the sensation of movement, the bubbling murmur of the foam, the sparkling joy of splattering surf, and the majestic realization of the fragility of us, humans, when faced with the forces of nature.
How many times have you found yourself mesmerized by the vastness of the sea, watching the horizon, catching the movement of the waves, losing track of time?
Déferlante by Chaumet is exactly that: graceful as the poetry, powerful as the surge, timeless as the World’s oceans.
THE RIBBONS OF DIOR FOUND THEIR WAY INTO HIGH JEWELRY. AND THEY ARE HERE TO STAY.
We are all somewhat asymmetric. An ironically raised eyebrow, a lopsided smile, a flirtatious dimple on a cheek: this slight asymmetry is what makes our faces look emotional.
In the new high jewelry collection from Dior – Galons Dior – combinations of straight lines, curves, circles, dots, triangles, ovals, rectangles, spheres, cubes, cuboids and prisms of gems are arranged in delightfully irregular shapes from varying styles and epoch, demonstrating Victoire de Castellane’s revolutionary approach to jewelry: the modern eclecticism.
A new wave in the industry, these pieces are highly desirable and effortlessly wearable. All 81 original pieces, encrusted with clear diamonds, dreamy sapphires, luscious rubies and vibrant emeralds, intertwine twirling, waltzing ribbons: galons. Spontaneous and harmonious, they are sublime combinations of the incompatible.
Inspiration drawn from couture is not new to the creative director of Dior Joaillerie. Take, for example, the 2014 Archi Dior high jewelry collection, designed by Victoire de Castellane, which includes the Bar en Corolle emerald bracelet that resembles the sumptuous shape of Dior’s emblematic Bar jacket, while petal-shaped diamond earrings echo the anatomy of Dior’s Junon gown.
The clothes we wear are asymmetric, spontaneously swishing, whirling and creasing as we move. Beautifully cut hair is blown by the wind into the most unexpected shapes. But if those shapes have been brought to life by a true master, this seeming imperfection approaches perfection: appealing, enigmatic and tempting.
As tempting as the refined asymmetry of Galons Dior.
YOU CANNOT KEEP LOCKED IN A BOTTLE THE BUBBLING JOY AND BEAUTY: EARRINGS FROM THE NEW CHANEL COLLECTION ARE PROOF.
As I fiddle with the perfectly shaped bottle of Chanel N°5, touching its smooth glass filled with delicious scent, I am thinking: what if, by rubbing this vessel of fragrant charm, I could summon a genie?
What would I wish each and every one of you for 2022?
The Golden Stopper Earrings from Chanel’s new high jewelry Collection N°5 – the recognizable cork and bubbly burst of magnetism – are a concoction of enthusiasm, refinement and delight.
One earring, to open the bottle, is geometric and straightforward, a chiseled stopper reflecting the architecture and proportions of Place Vendôme, admired by Coco Chanel from the balcony of her room at the Ritz. The other – a vivacious splash of precious stones, a rapid movement – like droplets from a bottle of New Year champagne.
A hundred and twenty-three pieces within Chanel’s new Collection N°5 have been designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary perfume. Since 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman”, created by Gabrielle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, has been a staple of sophistication and confidence, a potent elixir of sensuality and femininity, and, without doubt, the most famous perfume in the world.
Coco Chanel is believed to have said: “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.”
Watching bubbles of champagne escape from the bottle on New Year’s night, I wish each and every one of you good health, warm evenings with your loved ones, cheerful mornings sparkling with ambition for discoveries and creation, and all the beauty that the world can give.
Thank you for another year with the Jewelry Icon!
Illustration by INCYCUBANS
RINGS, NECKLACES AND BANGLES IN A VARIETY OF PRECIOUS COMBINATIONS – FOR ANY MOOD, OUTFIT AND OCCASION.
Tie your precious memories together into a tight and elegant knot with Engelbert’s rings, necklaces and bangles.
Available in a variety of combinations – white gold and white diamonds, yellow gold and black diamonds, rose gold and white diamonds, and in many shapes – fat knots, slim knots, tight knots, loose knots – they all come from one of the Engelbert’s most significant collections.
Created within one of the most prominent jewelry houses of Scandinavia, the Absolutely Knot collection blends together the laconic charm and inmost recesses of the creative and stoic Nordic soul: beauty that is bound to last for ages and rise above any transient fashion crazes.
Look at the playful ease with which the intricate diamond pavé follows the curves of a tricky, twisted silhouette! These knots will work with everything and for everyone: any day and time of the year, a t-shirt or a dress, an extravagant fashionista or a stylish purist, a fancy soirée or a sentimental evening in an old bistro.
In aviation and in maritime affairs knots are still used when navigating an aircraft or ship, even though they do not fit within the modern metric system, because the length of a nautical mile (a base for the knot) is closely related to the longitude and latitude of the geographic coordinate system. Knots, as we all know, are also symbols of strong bond and affection.
How many times have you tied a knot just to watch it untie itself in a matter of hours or even minutes? The knots by Engelbert will stay tied forever, reflecting the strength and the length that people will go to find, connect with and never let go of their loved ones.
NEW FLORAL COLLECTION IN GOLD, ENAMEL AND MOUTH-WATERING, COLORFUL GEMS
In a small city on the scenic American East Coast – spiced up by fun murals, hipster coffee shops, the vibrant River Arts District where former factory buildings became home to artists’ studios and the Downtown Art District, populated with galleries and museums – a legend was born.
Asheville, nicknamed the “Paris of the South”, is a charming oasis of chill bohemian vibe and artistic coziness. Back in the 1980s, residents fought hard to keep its atmosphere as an artisan city, with unique style and architecture, small local stores and restaurants, in opposition to building a large shopping mall which would have required demolishing an authentic area of 11-blocks.
This eclectic city also happens to be the hometown of David Webb – a prominent American jeweler and founder of an eponymous luxury jewelry house – where he started his education in jewelry-making and grew fond of lavish, blooming gardens.
New fine jewelry collection named after Asheville: eight exceptional floral pieces (pendant necklace, drop earrings, cuff bracelets, choker, and an open-band ring), designed in two distinctive palettes – fresh, pink opals with rubies, emerald beads, turquoise and diamonds, and serene, blue chalcedony with sapphires, turquoise and diamonds. The distinctive 18-karat gold chains and white enamel, present in both colorways, make it easy to combine the jewels and weld them together.
It is tempting to search Asheville’s gardens and Blue Ridge Mountains for the wildflowers which have inspired David Webb’s designers. There, you can find rhododendrons, flame azaleas, mountain laurels, and Turk’s cap lilies. Curiously, the house says that the new collection’s floral motif has no direct analog in nature but, rather, is an archetypical, stylized flower, easily recognized across continents, epochs and cultures.
The jewelry house’s co-owner and creative director Mark Emanuel acknowledges that now is the right time to come back to “flower power”, with its intrinsic ideas of invigorating beauty, peace and optimism.
A gulp of fresh air, spring in the midst of winter’s approach, the delicate, light pink and pale blue flowers are supported by unique, weighty and supple chains – a combination of strength, dreaminess and femininity, marked with characteristic design elements: bold colors, lively enamel and carved hardstones.
So, here it is: the new Ashville collection by David Webb, a quintessence of light, charm and hope.
THE LATEST HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION ‘EGYPT’ BY AN INIMITABLE BRAZILIAN DESIGNER IS AT THE ABSOLUTE INTERSECTION OF OLD AND NEW
To take something as ancient and profound as the history and artefacts of the millennia-old civilization and to present it in new light, suitable and wearable for our modern times, is not a task for the faint of heart.
This time, Silvia Furmanovich – a São Paulo designer who travels the world over in search of inspiration and unique places, diving into local cultures and meeting local craftspeople – drew her creative power from the very cradle of civilization.
In January, Silvia and her son Andrey spent a month exploring Egypt, its history, architecture, ancient monuments and relics, lush landscape, archaeological sites and remote villages, such as the Siwa Oasis – one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements, whose inhabitants have developed an unique desert culture and whose distinctive houses are built from karsheef (blocks of clay and salt).
In the markets of Cairo, she asked stone carvers to sculpt jewels from locally sourced gemstones: lapis lazuli, turquoise and jasper, envisaging their mesmerizing splendor in her future collection. In Luxor, which is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, she commissioned artisans to paint miniatures on stones, which were later set in the earrings.
Egypt has been an inspiration for jewelry artists for eons, and it remains their muse today. “The meaning of jewelry was so important to ancient Egyptians; it was powerful, it was protection, and it was buried with them.”, said Silvia to Town & Country magazine. And she felt compelled to tell its story.
Up to the present day, Silvia Furmanovich, born in Brazil to a line of Italian goldsmiths, has been mastering, developing and searching for techniques and materials new and old, and this jewelry collection is the culmination of many years’ work and research.
Silvia creates her one-of-a-kind pieces through the alchemic combinations of daring designs, a passion for ancient, traditional and innovative craftsmanship, styles and materials, and her original interpretations of cultures. This year, she took the time and creative energy she needed to find, deconstruct and reconstruct the rich and mysterious ancient art, symbols, materials and meanings – and present them in a fresh light in her new Egyptian collection, a rich range of pieces: each uniquely different, all unparalleled, but, through Silvia’s creative genius, still part of one amazing artistic family.
A series of earrings within the collection have been inspired by the capitals of Egyptian columns, such as these Lotus Earrings in gold, diamonds and marquetry, which resemble the sacred lotus flower that blooms on many parts of Egyptian architecture. These pieces will appeal especially to strong, artistic personalities with an eye for timeless beauty.
IT’S ALL THERE: SLENDER, GOTHIC LINES, DELICATE, AIRY LACING AND EXCEPTIONAL PRECIOUS STONES
Architectural and delicate, modern and ethnic, the Eblouissante set of high jewelry from the Escale à Venise collection by Chanel is everything you would have expected from the legendary luxury fashion house – and plenty more.
The combination of pink gold and platinum in tandem with flawless diamonds brings to mind intricate, hand-made embroidery and the gothic architecture of Venice: nuanced lace-like tiles, atmospheric windows and an aura of remarkable lightness, all obtained through the uncontestable artistry of medieval architects, engineers and builders.
The geometrically-set diamond cubes and rectangles are arranged like multiple openings and spaces in the mosaic of Venetian architecture. Frames of rose gold and platinum support refreshing ice-cubes of crystal-clear diamonds as a metaphor for dainty windows, letting fresh air into the twilight of cool, historical buildings. The gemstones are set in a precise, well-measured manner, creating an impression of lightness, lucidity, balanced elegance and refined poshness – qualities characteristic of Chanel from the very beginnings of the house.
The nature of lace has inspired architects to finesse detail, romanticism and mystery, playing with filigree light and energizing shadows in their creations from time immemorial, and continues to do so to this day. Lace-like town halls, churches and cathedrals possess qualities of airiness and tactility, making them more familiar to townies, almost like a second skin.
In the 1930s, Coco Chanel herself underwent a so-called “romantic” period, during which she widely employed lace, tulle and chiffon, accentuating the natural curves of a woman’s body, often using classic black to counterbalance the romantic quality of those materials and turn them into seductive gowns.
In the Escale à Venise collection and especially in the Eblouissante set, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, offers her own contemporary interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of Venice – always one of her favorite destinations.
Translated from the French as ‘dazzling’, the light and sculptural, ethnic and modern Eblouissante set lives up to its name – and way beyond it.
LUSCIOUS TITANIUM GRAPES FOR THE EARS OF A BOLD, MODERN GODDESS
"Creating is an emotional process, so inspiration
can come from whatever touches your soul or
particularly catches your eyes: a color, a texture,
an architectural detail, a painting, a picture, a sunset."
"Fashion and jewelry might seem superficial
in these times, but our job is made of creativity
and passion which are an expression of love,
and love is what all of us want."
The blue and purple earrings by Fabio Salini are a contemporary poem to extraordinary women, inspirational art and mighty technology. Their massive size is counterbalanced by their component material: light and sturdy titanium, used widely in space and marine engineering because of its resistance to corrosion, fatigue and cracking, and tolerance for high temperatures.
Titanium is not the only unconventional material employed by the modernist Roman jeweler and designer. Other-worldly and futuristic, many of his creations feature unusual ingredients: natural objects like horns and eggs, bamboo and straw, non-precious components like rope and leather, industrial elements like copper thread, even carbon fiber – a high-tech, space-age, immensely strong, deep black material that adds a touch of a mystic, deep-space void and impenetrability to his intelligently engineered, ultra-modern and architectural, geometrical and delicate, voluminous and elaborate creations.
Trained in geology and gemology, Fabio Salini worked at the jewelry and watchmaking moguls Cartier and Bulgari where he developed his unique, eclectic, modern and imaginative style which earned him international fame and awards. Starting with his own collection which Salini presented to the world in 1999, he has been using new forms and unusual combinations of materials, looking for inspiration in contemporary art and artistic collaborations, innovating and experimenting to modernize and galvanize the spirit of high jewelry and make it what he believes it is: an expression of art. “If you don’t change the rules, if you don’t dare, you don’t bring anything new into the world,” Fabio Salini explained his philosophy to Vogue.
Disagreeing with the idea that a jewel is inherently a symbol of the wearer’s status, Fabio provides a new outlook on the relation between the monetary value of the jewel’s ingredients and its artistic, personal and emotional worth. In his interview with Vivienne Becker, he stresses that the true preciousness of a jewel has to be discovered, revealed slowly, understood profoundly and most of all cherished by the wearer.
Massive, vivid and dramatic, the titanium semispheres of the blue and purple earrings catch the light and give back extraordinary breams of energy. Like powerful magnets, whose wild temper has been mitigated by their feminine, soft volumes, these deific mini-shields are meant to attract all the glances in the space around them.
Are you the modern goddess – avant-garde, bold and adventurous – ready for a mighty dose of attention? Then these bunches of futuristic grapes are for you! Enjoy their irresistible attraction.
NATURE AND ART REUNITED IN A DELICATE AND EXPRESSIVE RING
White Iris by Bliss Carman White Iris was a princess In a kingdom long ago, Mysterious as moonlight And silent as the snow.
A subtle, sensual, powdery scent. Delicate, curly petals, twisting and curving lines. The rich verdure of pointy leaves. Rainbow-colored and white irises – the harbingers of early summer – shimmer on the horizon of high jewelry, brought to life by the infinite imagination and unrivalled mastery of Ilgiz.
In his trademark, colorful style, staying true to genuine artistry, aesthetics and creativity, weaving together the art and science of painting and sculpture, perspective and architecture, Ilgiz reproduces the delicacy and sophistication of the iris flower in a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind ring.
For Ancient Greeks, Iris was a messenger of the gods and goddess of the rainbow, carrying messages from the heavens down to earth on its iridescent arc. The iris also inspired the fleur-de-lis – a decorative symbol of French royalty, appearing on their coat of arms, shields and coins. To this day, purple iris remains a symbol of royalty and wisdom, blue iris is a symbol of hope, while white iris is a symbol of purity.
Whatever symbolism you attach to it, the iris remains the eponym of femininity, exotic grace and mysterious beauty. The fruit of a deep immersion into the secrets of the natural world, the White Iris Ring by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov captures every gradation of color, every nuance of mood, elicited by this dreamy and extravagant flower.
Van Gogh’s irises, painted in oil, light and soft and blue, and Ilgiz’s white irises, petals rendered in intricate enamel surrouning a shimmering opal. Both artists capture the emotion and beauty of this regal flower, immortalizing it for generations to come.
How kind that earth should treasure So beautiful a thing — All mystical enchantment, To stir our hearts in spring!
THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE
Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.
The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.
Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist
The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.
The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.
Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.
In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.
The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.
The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.
MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD
They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.
Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.
A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.
Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.
In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.
Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.
Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.
Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.
Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!
Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.
SEVENTY MARVELOUS JEWELS TELL THE STORY OF THE ITALIAN WONDER IN THE LANGUAGE OF PRECIOUS METALS AND STONES
Travelling the world through books – a romantic, affordable and eye-opening childhood experience for most of us.
For Coco Chanel, books were more than just entertainment: they fuelled her imagination, giving her travel and education without leaving her room, allowing Chanel to discover countries, cultures and arts, which later influenced her legendary creations.
In January 2016, Venice even hosted an exhibition “La Donna Che Legge” (“The Woman Who Reads”), a glimpse into Coco Chanel’s literary tastes, friendships and her relationships with books, writers, poets, artists and musicians.
Back in the 1970s, Roland Barthes, the French literary critic, wrote in an article for Marie Claire magazine: “If you were to open a text about the history of literature today, you would find in it the name of a new classic author: Coco Chanel. Chanel does not write using paper and ink (except as a pastime), but with fabric, forms, colors.”
Chanel will always be Chanel.
At the beginning of this year, the iconic fashion house presented a new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” (translated as “Stopover in Venice”): 70 pieces, of which 22 are one-of-a-kind, four brooches in a limited edition of five, as well as five high jewelry watches.
The collection takes you to the engineering marvel of the world, the city of masks, bridges, romance and Murano glass, and submerges you in the colors, architecture and atmosphere of this extraordinary place – and Coco Chanel’s greatly loved destination – even if you have not yet had the good fortune to see it in person.
Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, invites you to travel to this unique location not, this time, through the pages of books but through the facets of gemstones; to experience its indescribable grandeur through the colors of intricate enamel, layers of precious metals, the flight of imagination and the remarkable skills of Chanel’s jewelers.
Symbolic depictions of blue-and-white mooring poles, ribboned boater hats, baroque lions from the facade of Saint Mark’s Basilica – the guardians and the spirit animals of Venice – the deep blue of the its starry skies, the tesserae of Byzantine architecture, scattered throughout the city… It takes an eminent mastermind to collect all the pieces of this mosaic and arrange them into an unparalleled object of jewelry art while staying true to the spirit of the city and to Chanel, firing people’s imagination without spiraling into clutter and chaos. It takes Patrice Leguéreau to do that.
“Escale à Venise” is a collection with many faces, offering a contemporary interpretation of the different emblems of the Floating City. It consists of four parts: Sérénissime, Gran Canale, Isole della Laguna, and Spirito de Venezia.
Sérénissime is the traditional name of the Republic of Venice or, in Venetian, Serenìsima Repùblega Vèneta – a sovereign state and maritime republic, which existed from 697 to 1797. It offers an intriguing interpretation of Venetian architecture: the facades of its palaces, the multicolored marble floors and mosaics of its churches, rendered in paragon, geometric lines, baguette-cut and round diamonds, warmed by the soft hues of Padparadascha and mandarin sapphires and rose gold.
Gran Canale was inspired by the Venetian waterways: the big and small canals, brightly spotted with gondoliers’ hats, reimagined as whimsical cocktail rings, with ribbons set in red and black enamel and diamond pavé, as well as the blue-and-white mooring poles, dreamed up in the blue enamel and diamond pavé of earrings, necklaces and bangles.
Isole della Laguna plays with the theme of camellia, Coco Chanel’s best-loved flower. Inspired by Venetian Murano glass, this iconic blossom is given new meaning and structure in rock crystal, hand-carved into the shape of the classic Chanel camellia, punctuated with diamonds and set in yellow gold.
Spirito de Venezia contemplates the image of the lion – Coco Chanel’s astrological sign and her favorite talisman – and the blue-and-gold starry scene on the rooftop of Saint Mark’s Basilica. The winged lion on the Basilica is guarding the Bible on Chanel’s one-of-a-kind ring – an impressive pear-shaped diamond.
High jewelry by Chanel is almost impossible to put into words. Beautiful? Beyond compare. Stunning? Absolutely. One-of-a-kind? Without question.
Their new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” captures the heart and soul, colors and shapes, air and mood of the city and translates them so precisely into the language of beauty and art that even a person who has never been there can say: This is Venice!
Let the “Escale à Venise” jewels speak for themselves. Give in to their charm. Listen to their story…
 “Si vous ouvriez aujourd’hui une histoire de notre littérature, vous devriez y trouver le nom d’un nouvel auteur classique: Coco Chanel. Chanel n’écrit pas avec du papier et de l’encre (sauf à ses moments perdus) mais avec de l’étoffe, des formes et des couleurs […].” (source: Identités visuelles (Formes sémiotiques) by Jean-Marie Floch).
FLIRTATIOUS, TIMELESS AND ULTRAFEMININE, THE HOOPS ARE BACK
Can a man know a woman so well that he can create exactly what she wants?
In a moment of doubt, I recalled James Taffin de Givenchy, a jewelry designer, an expert in exotic gems and the founder of TAFFIN – the eponymous couture jewelry house, creator of pieces that are both zesty and experimental.
James Taffin de Givenchy is an alchemist, balancing emotion, intellect and logic to design one-of-a-kind objects of wearable art.
His easily recognizable designs often feature unconventional materials: rubber, ceramic (Taffin’s signature ingredient), wood, even steel from recycled AK-47s, resulting in thrilling challenges and, on occasion, a royal pain for the house’s jewelers who must find ingenious and innovative solutions to bring those imaginative projects to life. And, ultimately, pure joy for the women who will be wearing them!
Among James’s recent, dreamy creations are large hoop earrings: a delicate lace of carved white jade, sprinkled with rose gold ceramic and turquoise beads.
Time and time again, I’ve come back to these mesmerizing, semitranslucent jade circles: looking for the perfect angle, the perfect light, the perfect painting to reveal their transcendent beauty and breezy vibes. My many searches have at last come to an end with the intriguing portrait of a woman by Chris Gambrell.
Hoop earrings are as old as time. In Ancient Egypt, even cats were pictured with hoops in their ears. Bast, or Bastet – the Egyptian goddess of home, fertility and childbirth, protector of home from evil spirits and disease, embodiment of gracefulness and affection – was sculpted and portrayed as a black cat wearing a gold necklace and gold hoop earrings.
That said, they never fall out of fashion. Throughout a history of ever-changing tastes, trends and styles, these eye-catching classic circles, symbols of eternity, might sometimes accidentally disappear from the horizon, only to make an even more ambitious and spectacular comeback.
The hoops by TAFFIN are back!
For woman, for the goddess, and for a stunning amalgamation of both.
IN CELEBRATION OF EVERY WOMAN AND EVERY MOTHER
It has become common practice to talk about women and men, femininity and masculinity in terms of Yin and Yang – contradictory, yet inseparable opposites. Women, the traditional representatives of Yin energy, have been celebrated as the sweet, gentle safekeepers of life, while men are destined to conquer, dominate and protect.
But the woman of today is, herself, both Yin and Yang. Balancing ever-increasing demands of family and career, she stands tall as a stronghold of ]opposing powers and idiosyncrasies: а svelte entrepreneur corralling a bunch of happy toddlers; an uncompromising politician with a weak point for her grandkids; a cool-headed brain surgeon who writes children’s books as a hobby; a lightning-fast sprinter, supporting dogs in an animal shelter.
Even when those opposing forces are not as dramatic, they are always there – softness and backbone, daintiness and solidity, centuries-old wisdom and contemporary intelligence – in every woman, in every single one of us. Just look inside to find it.
That is how I discovered the color red: the color of daring, of courage, the lipstick of a femme fatale, the color of fragrant wild strawberries, and of blood, which, let’s face it, is the inescapable companion of every birth, every new life.
Strong, spirited and beautiful: I chose this color as a statement to celebrate Women’s Day and Mother’s Day this year.
The symbolism behind the crimson red earrings from Sylvia Furmanovich’s Amazonia Bamboo collection is striking: the artist turns this common plant, an ordinary building material and food product in South, East, and Southeast Asia, into refined pieces of art. Through her daring designs, attention to detail and passion for traditional and innovative craftsmanship, her mix of precious and semiprecious stones, pearls and metals, she elevates the humble, yet strong and resilient bamboo to the dizzying heights of spicy, delicate and feminine refinement.
This is the quintessence of all the beauty in the world, which would never have happened were it not for the women.
Happy Women’s Day!
And Happy Mother’s Day!
CLOSE TO YOUR SKIN AND LIGHT YEARS AWAY: CÉPHÉIDE NECKLACE AND ULTRAVIOLET EARRINGS BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
FROM THE NEW HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION ‘SOUS LES ETOILES’ COME SOME POWERFUL AND EXTRAORDINARY DEPICTIONS OF THE STARS ABOVE
Painting by Michal Lukasiewicz
Celestial bodies fabulously beyond our reach and range of vision, many of which, even in these high-tech times, exist only in the calculations of mathematicians and astronomers and have yet to be captured by even the most advanced telescopes, it’s the stars and galaxies, constellations and nebulae that have inspired Van Cleef & Arpels to create their latest wonder: the ‘Sous Les Etoiles’ collection (translated as ‘Under the Stars’).
The designers and jewelers at Van Cleef & Arpels have reached into the depths of ancient archives and sci-fi movies, primitive old-time drawings and cutting-edge visualizations, NASA imagery and their own imagination, to look more closely at the skies.
The women from the paintings by Michal Lukasiewicz are wearing the one-of-a-kind Céphéide necklace and matching, unique Ultraviolet earrings from this new, stellar collection.
Cepheids – giant, pulsating stars – gave Van Cleef & Arpels the idea to create this eponymous, transformable necklace, featuring eleven chalcedony cabochons, mauve sapphires, tsavorite garnets and diamonds.
The deep, hypnotizing indigo of the night sky, revealing itself in dreamy two-tone tanzanites and mauve sapphires, is pierced by glowing diamonds of stars and the jolly verdure of tsavorites, reflected by the matching Ultraviolet earrings, complete with detachable pendants.
Preoccupied by our daily hustle and bustle, we have stopped paying attention to the skies. But have we, really? On 18 February 2021, NASA landed its rover Perseverance on Mars. To raise public awareness of this mission, NASA initiated a ‘Send Your Name to Mars’ campaign, where anyone could send their name to the Red Planet on a microchip, stored aboard the rover. Once registration had been completed, it turned out that a whopping 10,932,295 names had been submitted – all to be flown to Mars!
This euphoria over reaching out to the skies, the ambitious and competitive NASA and SpaceX projects, the butterflies we get in our stomachs when we look at creations as wonderful and exquisite as the ‘Sous Les Etoiles’ jewelry: everything points to how the stars have not been forgotten.
The galaxies of precious stones and metals, the ultra-sophisticated and poetic mastery of Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewelers and designers, the mesmerizing energy of the magnificent Céphéide necklace and Ultraviolet earrings are clear evidence that, even at the peak of the current bumpy ride, human hearts and eyes never stop looking – and finding – the beauty beneath and above the dome of the sky.