DEFYING THE LAWS OF GRAVITY: RINGS, BROOCHES, BANGLES AND EARRINGS BY FENG J

A UNIQUE TRADEMARK TECHNIQUE HELPS THE JEWELRY DESIGNER CREATE PIECES LIKE NO OTHER.

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Lightness, transparency and gentle colors, with gems held together as if by magic, visually not supported by any structure: jewelry designer Feng J uses her own, unique, innovative “Floating set” technique to make the gems appear to be floating in air, reflecting, refracting and allowing light to pass through them – to enhance the effects of phenomenal transparency, weightlessness and luminosity, as well as defying the laws of gravity.

The idea behind this signature technique is to reduce the weight of a piece by minimizing the amount of gold holding the stones together, while simultaneously retaining the large scale of the creation.

In these delicate, harmonious pieces, the stones are hand-picked and custom-cut by hand into 1–1.2 mm double rose-cuts and allocated the one and only correct place in the design, which may take months.

The Calla Lily Ring in emeralds, rose-cut diamonds and double rose-cut yellow sapphires and tsavorites will sumptuously embrace your wrist with its elegantly curved, electroplated green-colored gold bangle arm.

The Dreamland Butterfly Brooch in chrysoberyl, yellow quartz, tsavorites, marquise white diamonds, diamond beads and electroplated gold is a creature from a wonderland where production and implementation, as well as the invisible metal structure holding the entire piece together seems like a dream.

The Green Willow Leaf Earrings in green tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyls, tanzanites, aquamarines, white diamond and electroplated gold quietly sway in the warm, late-spring air and soak up rays of light, emphasizing their refreshing colors.

The Yellow Ginkgo Leaf brooch – in double rose-cut yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, rose-cut round diamonds, pear-shaped diamonds and gold – brings joy and energy on its vibrant, sunny leaves.

In the Green Lily of the Valley Bangle in double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyls, tanzanites, aquamarines, diamond beads, white diamond and electroplated gold, Feng J’s signature “Floating set” technique brings fantastic naturalism into the artwork, made even more delicate with its open, organic structure, all achieved through superb craftsmanship.

MAGIC QUARTZ, SUBTLE DIAMONDS AND MISCHIEVOUS WHITE GOLD IN EARRINGS BY SIETE GALLERY

WHO WOULD BE THE PERFECT WEARER FOR THESE EARPIECES? I SAY: ALICE IN WONDERLAND.

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Twisting, fragile baby mushrooms. The roots of an exotic, fragrant flower. Reflections of the morning sun in the sky. The half-dreamy world we enter straight after exiting the Land of Sleep.

What was the inspiration for this piece. These earrings by the Spanish jewelry brand Siete Gallery are amongst those rare creations where it just doesn’t matter. Soft and delicate, decisive and straightforward candy-like drops from a fairy-tale. They are simply beautiful.

Siete Gallery, better known as SIE7E, is a family-owned jewelry business, born as a gesture of love and respect by a designer and gemologist Guillermo Martorell to his wife Mamen Puchada, for whom the number 7 bears special significance.

“Jewelry is one of the accessories with the most emotional bond”, says Guillermo. The eclectic and bohemian SIE7E pieces are born out of a dialogue between experiential design and artisan tradition, and made by hand, down to the last detail, in their own atelier.

Avant-garde and temperamental, with a touch of forever classics, they are meant to awaken emotion and find their one and only owner, who will tame them, love them and become one with their dreamy nature.

Whether you’re an oddball Alice in Wonderland or a clear-headed rocket scientist, welcome to the world of SIE7E – the world of magic, dreams and wonder.

FROM THE CATWALK TO THE EAR: ARCHI DIOR EARRINGS

A STRING OF DIAMONDS SOARING IN THE AIR. THE GENTLE SWAYING OF LUXURY FABRIC. IN DIOR’S REFINED COLLECTION, IT’S ALL ABOUT SILHOUETTES AND MOVEMENT.

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Paying tribute to Christian Dior – the legendary couturier with an architect’s eye, known for the geometric silhouettes and clean lines of his creations – Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior Joaillerie, has concocted Archi Dior, a collection inspired by the brand’s iconic suits and dresses.

In her revolutionary approach, Victoire plays with the jewelry as if it were a piece of luxurious fabric, a fancy lace, a silky string, recreating their motion, tactile feel, visual charm and architectural silhouettes in white gold and diamonds.

The climber earrings, which are meant to be worn separately in one ear, were inspired by ribbons of Dior’s ‘Diorama’ dress, presented to the fashionista world in 1951.

Looking like little dancing dresses, these coquettish earrings were inspired by the ‘Bar’ suit, presented at the 1947 haute couture show: an off-white silk jacket, padded at the hips and accentuating the wasp waist, and a pleated black wool skirt – for a style that’s curvy and ultra-feminine.

The elegant movement is made to look free and easy by the creative genius of Victoire de Castellane and the skill of Dior’s jewellers.

Swaying, twirling and waltzing, these light and gracious earrings are a perfect fit for ears that can hear beauty.

SPIKES AND TENDERNESS: INDIAN PAINTED ROCK EARRINGS BY HEMMERLE

SOFT PALETTE AND A PROVOCATIVE STONE-SETTING TECHNIQUE – WHAT COULD SCREAM “HEMMERLE” LOUDER THAN THIS?

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Brown is a tricky color. Depending on the entourage, it can be incredibly chic or unbearably dull. Framed in black, it might look too heavy, framed in gold – too mainstream.

Instead, the designers of Hemmerle have surrounded earthy, Indian painted rocks with deep pink, turning these earrings into a dreamy and contemporary piece.

The reverse-set pavé is Hemmerle’s signature design. Rebellious and punkish, these gradient, spiky diamonds and umba sapphires, set in patinated copper and white gold, add a spicy, prickly sensation to the otherwise tranquil atmosphere of brown-and-pink cabochons.

To achieve this effect, the gems are set upside down. Thus, the whole idea of stone-setting makes a U-turn, making it a perfect fit for both avant-garde designers and rebellious wearers. “We draw inspiration from nature’s textures; from cacti and succulents to pineapples, durians and arbutus,” explained Christian Hemmerle. This technique adds unexpected angles, reflections, tones and brilliance to the traditional gems.

In these Hemmerle earrings, I see shadows of animals and trees in the evening savanna, caught in the warm pink of the sunset. What do you see?

DAYDREAM AND WONDER: TREE OF LIFE EARRINGS BY JEWELLERY THEATRE

DRAMATIC AND TRANSCENDENT BEAUTY FROM A LYRICAL JEWELRY BRAND – FOR DREAMERS AND FOR BELIEVERS

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From the orchards and forests of the Bible came timber, giving humans a chance to make fire and cook food. Trees are always close to us, offering energy, air, beauty and hope; shadow on a hot summer day, warmth on a cold hiking night.

Trees made us what we are now. Studies say that a surge in the size of the human brain, which happened around 1.8 million years ago, could be directly linked to this innovation in cooking: the possibility of roasting meat, fish and vegetables over fire – a process that made it easier for the human gut to absorb calories. Were we still eating an exclusively raw, unprocessed diet, we would have to spend more than nine hours a day eating to get enough energy for our amazing and exceptionally large brains! 

In Jewellery Theatre’s Tree of Life Earrings, strong, white gold branches hold diamond drops – the rest is up to your imagination.

Founded in 1998, Jewellery Theatre soon found its way and established itself on the luxury goods market. The ideas of the brand spin around the philosophy of combining life with art, fantasy with reality, through a sure-fire recipe that mixes the genius of outstanding designers and the skill of master jewellers with a tasteful addition of theatricality.

As for the Tree of Life Earrings: what emotions do they bring out in you? Thoughts about the meaning of life? Joy? Wonder? Sweet sorrow? A powerful emotional outburst?

The human brain, nurtured by oxygen produced by the trees, will keep wondering. Always.

DROPS OF HONEY AND MORNING DEW BY ANABELA CHAN

FRESH… LIGHT…DELICIOUSLY REFINED!

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As Spring kicks in with full force, body and soul are longing for airiness and joy.

The Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings by award-winning jewelry designer Anabela Chan unify the delicacy of leaf veins in citrus-hued recycled aluminium, white gold and rhodium vermeil, and the transparency of lab-grown and simulated clear white diamonds, yellow sapphires and canary citrines.

The earrings come from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, which was inspired by the magic and marvels of the ocean depths.

Although unable to travel much due to the pandemic, Anabela Chan found a way to explore the deep waters through the eyes and camera lenses of her friends, Valentine Thomas  – a former lawyer, now a freediver, chef and sustainable seafood expert – and underwater photographer Lily Wang.

Characteristic of all Anabela’s jewels is their unique recognizability: each piece is different, yet you can instantly tell who is behind their creation.

In her designs, she uses lab-grown gems and recycled metals, focusing on ethical and sustainable materials, techniques and innovations.

For this collection, Anabela opted for waste metals found in the oceans and on polluted beaches, to contribute to the restoration of marine ecosystems. For every creation sold, the Anabela Chan jewelry brand pledges, through Sustainable Surf’s SeaTrees project (source: https://sea-trees.org/), to plant one hundred of the mangrove trees that thrive in coastal saline waters, protecting and restoring coastlines and the seas.

The aluminium used in the Canary Atlantis Drop Earrings, as well as other pieces from the Mermaid’s Tale collection, comes from recycled aluminium soda cans fished out from the ocean and is collected from beaches by eco enthusiasts as well as by Anabela and her own kids.

Spring is calling:

To be joyful.

To be kind to nature and to people.

To breathe in fresh air and bask in beauty…

WHITE GOLD SWIRLS AND DIAMOND SPLASHES: DÉFERLANTE BY CHAUMET

EIGHT UNIQUE JEWELS, INCLUDING A SECRET TIMEPIECE, IN A NEW COLLECTION GLORIFYING THE MAGNIFICENT POWER OF OCEAN WAVES

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Spilling waves, plunging waves, surging waves. Collapsing waves, tidal waves, progressive waves. Capillary waves, refracted waves, seiche waves.

Shallow wavelets, where children like to play, and dangerous reef breaks, tamed by daredevil surfers. Mellow ripples and dramatic tsunamis.

Some caused by the friction between surface water and the wind. Others, by the gravitational pull on our planet of the Sun and the Moon.

These powerful surges of energy have now been immortalised in the new high jewellery capsule collection Déferlante by Chaumet.

The Déferlante (“wave” in French) collection consists of eight pieces which make up a parure: a tiara set with 1,600 brilliant-cut and step-cut diamonds; a necklace, using Chaumet’s signature fil-couteau technique, where stones appear as if they are floating; two rings (one transformable); two sets of earrings; a brooch; and a secret watch with a Swiss mechanical self-winding movement, which comes in a limited edition of three pieces.

Combinations of white diamonds of different shapes and sizes cascade down intricate settings of white gold. Bold angles and clean, sculptural lines generate the sensation of movement, the bubbling murmur of the foam, the sparkling joy of splattering surf, and the majestic realization of the fragility of us, humans, when faced with the forces of nature.

How many times have you found yourself mesmerized by the vastness of the sea, watching the horizon, catching the movement of the waves, losing track of time?

Déferlante by Chaumet is exactly that: graceful as the poetry, powerful as the surge, timeless as the World’s oceans.

REFINEMENT IN ASYMMETRY: GALONS BY DIOR

THE RIBBONS OF DIOR FOUND THEIR WAY INTO HIGH JEWELRY. AND THEY ARE HERE TO STAY.

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We are all somewhat asymmetric. An ironically raised eyebrow, a lopsided smile, a flirtatious dimple on a cheek: this slight asymmetry is what makes our faces look emotional.

In the new high jewelry collection from Dior – Galons Dior – combinations of straight lines, curves, circles, dots, triangles, ovals, rectangles, spheres, cubes, cuboids and prisms of gems are arranged in delightfully irregular shapes from varying styles and epoch, demonstrating Victoire de Castellane’s revolutionary approach to jewelry: the modern eclecticism.

A new wave in the industry, these pieces are highly desirable and effortlessly wearable. All 81 original pieces, encrusted with clear diamonds, dreamy sapphires, luscious rubies and vibrant emeralds, intertwine twirling, waltzing ribbons: galons. Spontaneous and harmonious, they are sublime combinations of the incompatible.

Inspiration drawn from couture is not new to the creative director of Dior Joaillerie. Take, for example, the 2014 Archi Dior high jewelry collection, designed by Victoire de Castellane, which includes the Bar en Corolle emerald bracelet that resembles the sumptuous shape of Dior’s emblematic Bar jacket, while petal-shaped diamond earrings echo the anatomy of Dior’s Junon gown.

The clothes we wear are asymmetric, spontaneously swishing, whirling and creasing as we move. Beautifully cut hair is blown by the wind into the most unexpected shapes. But if those shapes have been brought to life by a true master, this seeming imperfection approaches perfection: appealing, enigmatic and tempting.

As tempting as the refined asymmetry of Galons Dior.

SUMMON THE JOYOUS GENIE: COLLECTION N°5 FROM CHANEL

YOU CANNOT KEEP LOCKED IN A BOTTLE THE BUBBLING JOY AND BEAUTY: EARRINGS FROM THE NEW CHANEL COLLECTION ARE PROOF.

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As I fiddle with the perfectly shaped bottle of Chanel N°5, touching its smooth glass filled with delicious scent, I am thinking: what if, by rubbing this vessel of fragrant charm, I could summon a genie?

What would I wish each and every one of you for 2022?

The Golden Stopper Earrings from Chanel’s new high jewelry Collection N°5 – the recognizable cork and bubbly burst of magnetism – are a concoction of enthusiasm, refinement and delight.

One earring, to open the bottle, is geometric and straightforward, a chiseled stopper reflecting the architecture and proportions of Place Vendôme, admired by Coco Chanel from the balcony of her room at the Ritz. The other – a vivacious splash of precious stones, a rapid movement – like droplets from a bottle of New Year champagne.

A hundred and twenty-three pieces within Chanel’s new Collection N°5 have been designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary perfume. Since 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman”, created by Gabrielle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, has been a staple of sophistication and confidence, a potent elixir of sensuality and femininity, and, without doubt, the most famous perfume in the world.

Coco Chanel is believed to have said: “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.”

Watching bubbles of champagne escape from the bottle on New Year’s night, I wish each and every one of you good health, warm evenings with your loved ones, cheerful mornings sparkling with ambition for discoveries and creation, and all the beauty that the world can give.

Thank you for another year with the Jewelry Icon!

Illustration by INCYCUBANS

A KNOT THAT WILL NOT UNTIE: ABSOLUTELY KNOT BY ENGELBERT

RINGS, NECKLACES AND BANGLES IN A VARIETY OF PRECIOUS COMBINATIONS – FOR ANY MOOD, OUTFIT AND OCCASION.

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Tie your precious memories together into a tight and elegant knot with Engelbert’s rings, necklaces and bangles.

Available in a variety of combinations – white gold and white diamonds, yellow gold and black diamonds, rose gold and white diamonds, and in many shapes – fat knots, slim knots, tight knots, loose knots – they all come from one of the Engelbert’s most significant collections.

Created within one of the most prominent jewelry houses of Scandinavia, the Absolutely Knot collection blends together the laconic charm and inmost recesses of the creative and stoic Nordic soul: beauty that is bound to last for ages and rise above any transient fashion crazes.

Look at the playful ease with which the intricate diamond pavé follows the curves of a tricky, twisted silhouette! These knots will work with everything and for everyone: any day and time of the year, a t-shirt or a dress, an extravagant fashionista or a stylish purist, a fancy soirée or a sentimental evening in an old bistro.

In aviation and in maritime affairs knots are still used when navigating an aircraft or ship, even though they do not fit within the modern metric system, because the length of a nautical mile (a base for the knot) is closely related to the longitude and latitude of the geographic coordinate system. Knots, as we all know, are also symbols of strong bond and affection.

How many times have you tied a knot just to watch it untie itself in a matter of hours or even minutes? The knots by Engelbert will stay tied forever, reflecting the strength and the length that people will go to find, connect with and never let go of their loved ones.

EngelbertStocholm

FOR BOHEMIANS, DREAMERS, MODERATE SCEPTICS AND PASSIONATE BELIEVERS: ASHEVILLE BY DAVID WEBB

November09Jewelry in Art

NEW FLORAL COLLECTION IN GOLD, ENAMEL AND MOUTH-WATERING, COLORFUL GEMS

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In a small city on the scenic American East Coast – spiced up by fun murals, hipster coffee shops, the vibrant River Arts District where former factory buildings became home to artists’ studios and the Downtown Art District, populated with galleries and museums – a legend was born.

Asheville, nicknamed the “Paris of the South”, is a charming oasis of chill bohemian vibe and artistic coziness. Back in the 1980s, residents fought hard to keep its atmosphere as an artisan city, with unique style and architecture, small local stores and restaurants, in opposition to building a large shopping mall which would have required demolishing an authentic area of 11-blocks.

This eclectic city also happens to be the hometown of David Webb – a prominent American jeweler and founder of an eponymous luxury jewelry house – where he started his education in jewelry-making and grew fond of lavish, blooming gardens.

New fine jewelry collection named after Asheville: eight exceptional floral pieces (pendant necklace, drop earrings, cuff bracelets, choker, and an open-band ring), designed in two distinctive palettes – fresh, pink opals with rubies, emerald beads, turquoise and diamonds, and serene, blue chalcedony with sapphires, turquoise and diamonds. The distinctive 18-karat gold chains and white enamel, present in both colorways, make it easy to combine the jewels and weld them together.

It is tempting to search Asheville’s gardens and Blue Ridge Mountains for the wildflowers which have inspired David Webb’s designers. There, you can find rhododendrons, flame azaleas, mountain laurels, and Turk’s cap lilies. Curiously, the house says that the new collection’s floral motif has no direct analog in nature but, rather, is an archetypical, stylized flower, easily recognized across continents, epochs and cultures.

The jewelry house’s co-owner and creative director Mark Emanuel acknowledges that now is the right time to come back to “flower power”, with its intrinsic ideas of invigorating beauty, peace and optimism.

A gulp of fresh air, spring in the midst of winter’s approach, the delicate, light pink and pale blue flowers are supported by unique, weighty and supple chains – a combination of strength, dreaminess and femininity, marked with characteristic design elements: bold colors, lively enamel and carved hardstones.

So, here it is: the new Ashville collection by David Webb, a quintessence of light, charm and hope.

A MODERN TAKE ON OLD TRADITION: ANCIENT EGYPT BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

THE LATEST HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION ‘EGYPT’ BY AN INIMITABLE BRAZILIAN DESIGNER IS AT THE ABSOLUTE INTERSECTION OF OLD AND NEW

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To take something as ancient and profound as the history and artefacts of the millennia-old civilization and to present it in new light, suitable and wearable for our modern times, is not a task for the faint of heart.

This time, Silvia Furmanovich – a São Paulo designer who travels the world over in search of inspiration and unique places, diving into local cultures and meeting local craftspeople – drew her creative power from the very cradle of civilization.

In January, Silvia and her son Andrey spent a month exploring Egypt, its history, architecture, ancient monuments and relics, lush landscape, archaeological sites and remote villages, such as the Siwa Oasis – one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements, whose inhabitants have developed an unique desert culture and whose distinctive houses are built from karsheef (blocks of clay and salt).

In the markets of Cairo, she asked stone carvers to sculpt jewels from locally sourced gemstones: lapis lazuli, turquoise and jasper, envisaging their mesmerizing splendor in her future collection. In Luxor, which is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, she commissioned artisans to paint miniatures on stones, which were later set in the earrings.

Egypt has been an inspiration for jewelry artists for eons, and it remains their muse today.  “The meaning of jewelry was so important to ancient Egyptians; it was powerful, it was protection, and it was buried with them.”, said Silvia to Town & Country magazine. And she felt compelled to tell its story.

Up to the present day, Silvia Furmanovich, born in Brazil to a line of Italian goldsmiths, has been mastering, developing and searching for techniques and materials new and old, and this jewelry collection is the culmination of many years’ work and research.

Silvia creates her one-of-a-kind pieces through the alchemic combinations of daring designs, a passion for ancient, traditional and innovative craftsmanship, styles and materials, and her original interpretations of cultures. This year, she took the time and creative energy she needed to find, deconstruct and reconstruct the rich and mysterious ancient art, symbols, materials and meanings – and present them in a fresh light in her new Egyptian collection, a rich range of pieces: each uniquely different, all unparalleled, but, through Silvia’s creative genius, still part of one amazing artistic family.

A series of earrings within the collection have been inspired by the capitals of Egyptian columns, such as these Lotus Earrings in gold, diamonds and marquetry, which resemble the sacred lotus flower that blooms on many parts of Egyptian architecture. These pieces will appeal especially to strong, artistic personalities with an eye for timeless beauty.

ARCHITECTURE, LACE AND JEWELRY IN A DAZZLING EBLOUISSANTE SET BY CHANEL

IT’S ALL THERE: SLENDER, GOTHIC LINES, DELICATE, AIRY LACING AND EXCEPTIONAL PRECIOUS STONES

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Architectural and delicate, modern and ethnic, the Eblouissante set of high jewelry from the Escale à Venise collection by Chanel is everything you would have expected from the legendary luxury fashion house – and plenty more.

The combination of pink gold and platinum in tandem with flawless diamonds brings to mind intricate, hand-made embroidery and the gothic architecture of Venice: nuanced lace-like tiles, atmospheric windows and an aura of remarkable lightness, all obtained through the uncontestable artistry of medieval architects, engineers and builders.

The geometrically-set diamond cubes and rectangles are arranged like multiple openings and spaces in the mosaic of Venetian architecture. Frames of rose gold and platinum support refreshing ice-cubes of crystal-clear diamonds as a metaphor for dainty windows, letting fresh air into the twilight of cool, historical buildings. The gemstones are set in a precise, well-measured manner, creating an impression of lightness, lucidity, balanced elegance and refined poshness – qualities characteristic of Chanel from the very beginnings of the house.

The nature of lace has inspired architects to finesse detail, romanticism and mystery, playing with filigree light and energizing shadows in their creations from time immemorial, and continues to do so to this day. Lace-like town halls, churches and cathedrals possess qualities of airiness and tactility, making them more familiar to townies, almost like a second skin.

In the 1930s, Coco Chanel herself underwent a so-called “romantic” period, during which she widely employed lace, tulle and chiffon, accentuating the natural curves of a woman’s body, often using classic black to counterbalance the romantic quality of those materials and turn them into seductive gowns.

In the Escale à Venise collection and especially in the Eblouissante set, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, offers her own contemporary interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of Venice – always one of her favorite destinations.

Translated from the French as ‘dazzling’, the light and sculptural, ethnic and modern Eblouissante set lives up to its name – and way beyond it.

FEMININE FUTURISM BY FABIO SALINI

LUSCIOUS TITANIUM GRAPES FOR THE EARS OF A BOLD, MODERN GODDESS

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"Creating is an emotional process, so inspiration
can come from whatever touches your soul or
particularly catches your eyes: a color, a texture,
an architectural detail, a painting, a picture, a sunset."

"Fashion and jewelry might seem superficial
in these times, but our job is made of creativity
and passion which are an expression of love,
and love is what all of us want."

Fabio Salini

The blue and purple earrings by Fabio Salini are a contemporary poem to extraordinary women, inspirational art and mighty technology. Their massive size is counterbalanced by their component material: light and sturdy titanium, used widely in space and marine engineering because of its resistance to corrosion, fatigue and cracking, and tolerance for high temperatures.

Titanium is not the only unconventional material employed by the modernist Roman jeweler and designer. Other-worldly and futuristic, many of his creations feature unusual ingredients: natural objects like horns and eggs, bamboo and straw, non-precious components like rope and leather, industrial elements like copper thread, even carbon fiber – a high-tech, space-age, immensely strong, deep black material that adds a touch of a mystic, deep-space void and impenetrability to his intelligently engineered, ultra-modern and architectural, geometrical and delicate, voluminous and elaborate creations.

Trained in geology and gemology, Fabio Salini worked at the jewelry and watchmaking moguls Cartier and Bulgari where he developed his unique, eclectic, modern and imaginative style which earned him international fame and awards. Starting with his own collection which Salini presented to the world in 1999, he has been using new forms and unusual combinations of materials, looking for inspiration in contemporary art and artistic collaborations, innovating and experimenting to modernize and galvanize the spirit of high jewelry and make it what he believes it is: an expression of art. “If you don’t change the rules, if you don’t dare, you don’t bring anything new into the world,” Fabio Salini explained his philosophy to Vogue

Disagreeing with the idea that a jewel is inherently a symbol of the wearer’s status, Fabio provides a new outlook on the relation between the monetary value of the jewel’s ingredients and its artistic, personal and emotional worth. In his interview with Vivienne Becker, he stresses that the true preciousness of a jewel has to be discovered, revealed slowly, understood profoundly and most of all cherished by the wearer. 

Massive, vivid and dramatic, the titanium semispheres of the blue and purple earrings catch the light and give back extraordinary breams of energy. Like powerful magnets, whose wild temper has been mitigated by their feminine, soft volumes, these deific mini-shields are meant to attract all the glances in the space around them.

Are you the modern goddess – avant-garde, bold and adventurous – ready for a mighty dose of attention? Then these bunches of futuristic grapes are for you! Enjoy their irresistible attraction.

WHITE IRIS DREAM BY ILGIZ

NATURE AND ART REUNITED IN A DELICATE AND EXPRESSIVE RING

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White Iris by Bliss Carman
 
 White Iris was a princess 
In a kingdom long ago, 
Mysterious as moonlight 
And silent as the snow. 

A subtle, sensual, powdery scent. Delicate, curly petals, twisting and curving lines. The rich verdure of pointy leaves. Rainbow-colored and white irises – the harbingers of early summer – shimmer on the horizon of high jewelry, brought to life by the infinite imagination and unrivalled mastery of Ilgiz.

In his trademark, colorful style, staying true to genuine artistry, aesthetics and creativity, weaving together the art and science of painting and sculpture, perspective and architecture, Ilgiz reproduces the delicacy and sophistication of the iris flower in a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind ring.

For Ancient Greeks, Iris was a messenger of the gods and goddess of the rainbow, carrying messages from the heavens down to earth on its iridescent arc. The iris also inspired the fleur-de-lis – a decorative symbol of French royalty, appearing on their coat of arms, shields and coins. To this day, purple iris remains a symbol of royalty and wisdom, blue iris is a symbol of hope, while white iris is a symbol of purity.

Whatever symbolism you attach to it, the iris remains the eponym of femininity, exotic grace and mysterious beauty. The fruit of a deep immersion into the secrets of the natural world, the White Iris Ring by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov captures every gradation of color, every nuance of mood, elicited by this dreamy and extravagant flower.

Van Gogh’s irises, painted in oil, light and soft and blue, and Ilgiz’s white irises, petals rendered in intricate enamel surrouning a shimmering opal. Both artists capture the emotion and beauty of this regal flower, immortalizing it for generations to come.

How kind that earth should treasure 
So beautiful a thing — 
All mystical enchantment, 
To stir our hearts in spring!

IRIS PETAL EARRINGS BY LUZ CAMINO: A GRACEFUL REMINDER THAT BEAUTY IS EVERYWHERE

THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE

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Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.

Audrey Hepburn

The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.

Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist

 

The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.

The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.

Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.

In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.

The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.

The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.

 

THE REVIVAL OF NATURE AND JOIE DE VIVRE: BUTTERFLIES BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD

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They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.  

Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.  

A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.  

Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.  

In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.

Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.   

Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.  

Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.

Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!  

Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.    

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