TEARY EYES, SCULLS, BONES AND FLOWERS IN A COLLECTION OF MODERN AND ECLECTIC JEWELRY
Bocca Della Verità Necklace, Sad Sagittarius Earrings, Blue Sorrow Bracelet – the names of these pieces by Samuel François, a Paris-based fashion director of the international fashion magazine Numéro, who has recently presented his very own jewelry collection – speak for themselves.
They sound ominous, melancholic, even sinister. But don’t let them deceive you into thinking that this collection is dark and sad. It is anything but!
Stylistically somewhat reminiscent of Codognato – one the most influential Venetian artists in the history of modern jewelry – it strikes the eye as fresh and individual, with a feminine, light and surrealist twist. Most of these bold pieces are implemented in gold-plated brass and enamel. Each piece is handmade, hence absolutely unique and one-of-a-kind.
A self-taught jewelry designer, Samuel sculpts from wax the models for his pieces, and then works closely with the jewelers who cast them in metal and then enamel them. Today, when skulls, skeletons and other macabre images on t-shirts, shoes and dresses are no longer considered taboo, these visual metaphors for the fragility and transience of life find new meaning in his extravagant and lavish, esoteric and surrealistic creations, spiced up with a dose of zesty humor.
The collection was inspired by Naples, renown for the cult of devotion to skulls which were believed to grant people’s wishes, and – as Samuel points out – by a very particular spot in the city: a bohemian, chic, little hotel, the Albergo del Purgatorio, which looks and feels like a boutique art gallery. I
n Samuel’s vision, eerie motives are rendered in bright, cheerful colors, balancing jolly eclecticism with refined kitschiness and a bit of magic.
The collection is now available for admiration and purchase at Moda Operandi.
MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD
They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.
Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.
A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.
Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.
In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.
Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.
Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.
Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.
Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!
Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.
DO YOU LIKE PEARLS? OR DO YOU THINK THEY ARE OLD-SCHOOL? DON’T JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS BEFORE YOU HAVE SEEN THESE PIECES
In an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Mizuki Goltz remarked that pearls have a sensuousness that can balance a sometimes-cold modernism.
Spring, summer, winter or autumn, these glowing spheres radiate soft, iridescent light, which brightens your face without stealing the spotlight but rather directing it towards the wearer’s eyes, cheekbones, neckline and dainty wrists.
The Tokyo-born New York jewelry designer Mizuki Goltz, winner of multiple awards including Town and Country’s 2017 Pearls of The Year, Pearl Design award at Centurion, and Pearl Design award at the Couture show in Las Vegas, employs her impressive cultural background, along with the knowledge and skills acquired through her studies of sculpture at the New York School of Visual Arts, to create elegant and modern pearl jewelry.
Mizuki jewelry is unique in its lightweight and contemporary aura, with a touch of nonchalant, flirtatious sensuousness. These pieces know no limits. They can be worn anywhere and on any occasion, and will never look excessive or heavy. An absolute win-win for both passionate pearl aficionados and cautious pearl sceptics!
Pearl Kansanshi Bar Earrings by Mizuki can be worn as a single earring or mixed with your favorite studs, ear cuffs or ear crawlers to create balanced and asymmetric, feminine and flirtatiously tomboyish combinations and to power up your creativity and imagination.
Refined and delicate, these pearl and gold bars will organically complement your image and draw pure and subtle light to your face.
Take a look at new Mizuki pearls on Moda Operandi!
GEMS COME TO LIFE IN THE DESIGNS OF AN INTUITIVE STONE ARTIST, IMPASSIONED BY THEIR SECRETS
A wizardess speaking to the stones and looking deep into their ancient mysteries.
A proud Russian beauty, with her piercing gaze and magnificent cascade of long, blond hair.
Anna White was born with a desire to create. As a child, she was always busy building and constructing, inventing and experimenting. She was born at that time in Russia when consumer culture was not yet a thing, you could not simply stop by the shop and find whatever your soul desired. Consequently (or genetically), she took her creative spirit from her father who was a master of invention, always coming up with genius ideas, little, daily masterpieces, derived from thin air.
Later in life, when Anna started buying and receiving gems as gifts, her search for an outlet for her creativity brought Anna to the realm of jewelry, where she found a way to live, breath, materialize and nurture her artistic offspring.
The way Anna works with stones is uncanny. Her instinct towards choosing the right stone is primal and profound: not only does she see, she also senses them. As I was listening to the tone of her voice, watching her facial expressions, it occurred to me that it is not mere admiration for stones as crude material for her creations, it is a fundamental understanding and respect towards them!
Empowering precious and semiprecious gems through her designs, she endows them with a frame of oxidized silver or gold. It’s a peculiar environment for the stones, and for people to comprehend and to wear them. The patina, created through oxidation (a kind of accelerated version of the natural tarnishing process), gives the metal an intentionally darkened, aged look. Thus, excessive luster, characteristic of polished metals, does not interfere with the natural beauty of the stones.
Anna’s approach to jewelry design is not overwhelmed by design itself. For her, the art of jewelry is an instrument for bringing the stones into our world. It is intriguing and refreshing how she does not obsess over big or extravagant gems, but rather contemplates and exposes the character of each stone, its magnetism, the secret microcosm and the ancient myths behind its facets.
In their powerful and beautiful relationship, Anna and the stones act as each other’s integral parts and harmonious continuation.
The enigmatic, primeval minerals come alive in the hands of this miracle worker, with her eagle eye for the beauty and her ear for the fairy tales told by each and every carefully selected and cherished gemstone.
They will talk to you too, snugly settled on your ears and neck, wrists and fingers.
SEVENTY MARVELOUS JEWELS TELL THE STORY OF THE ITALIAN WONDER IN THE LANGUAGE OF PRECIOUS METALS AND STONES
Travelling the world through books – a romantic, affordable and eye-opening childhood experience for most of us.
For Coco Chanel, books were more than just entertainment: they fuelled her imagination, giving her travel and education without leaving her room, allowing Chanel to discover countries, cultures and arts, which later influenced her legendary creations.
In January 2016, Venice even hosted an exhibition “La Donna Che Legge” (“The Woman Who Reads”), a glimpse into Coco Chanel’s literary tastes, friendships and her relationships with books, writers, poets, artists and musicians.
Back in the 1970s, Roland Barthes, the French literary critic, wrote in an article for Marie Claire magazine: “If you were to open a text about the history of literature today, you would find in it the name of a new classic author: Coco Chanel. Chanel does not write using paper and ink (except as a pastime), but with fabric, forms, colors.”
Chanel will always be Chanel.
At the beginning of this year, the iconic fashion house presented a new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” (translated as “Stopover in Venice”): 70 pieces, of which 22 are one-of-a-kind, four brooches in a limited edition of five, as well as five high jewelry watches.
The collection takes you to the engineering marvel of the world, the city of masks, bridges, romance and Murano glass, and submerges you in the colors, architecture and atmosphere of this extraordinary place – and Coco Chanel’s greatly loved destination – even if you have not yet had the good fortune to see it in person.
Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, invites you to travel to this unique location not, this time, through the pages of books but through the facets of gemstones; to experience its indescribable grandeur through the colors of intricate enamel, layers of precious metals, the flight of imagination and the remarkable skills of Chanel’s jewelers.
Symbolic depictions of blue-and-white mooring poles, ribboned boater hats, baroque lions from the facade of Saint Mark’s Basilica – the guardians and the spirit animals of Venice – the deep blue of the its starry skies, the tesserae of Byzantine architecture, scattered throughout the city… It takes an eminent mastermind to collect all the pieces of this mosaic and arrange them into an unparalleled object of jewelry art while staying true to the spirit of the city and to Chanel, firing people’s imagination without spiraling into clutter and chaos. It takes Patrice Leguéreau to do that.
“Escale à Venise” is a collection with many faces, offering a contemporary interpretation of the different emblems of the Floating City. It consists of four parts: Sérénissime, Gran Canale, Isole della Laguna, and Spirito de Venezia.
Sérénissime is the traditional name of the Republic of Venice or, in Venetian, Serenìsima Repùblega Vèneta – a sovereign state and maritime republic, which existed from 697 to 1797. It offers an intriguing interpretation of Venetian architecture: the facades of its palaces, the multicolored marble floors and mosaics of its churches, rendered in paragon, geometric lines, baguette-cut and round diamonds, warmed by the soft hues of Padparadascha and mandarin sapphires and rose gold.
Gran Canale was inspired by the Venetian waterways: the big and small canals, brightly spotted with gondoliers’ hats, reimagined as whimsical cocktail rings, with ribbons set in red and black enamel and diamond pavé, as well as the blue-and-white mooring poles, dreamed up in the blue enamel and diamond pavé of earrings, necklaces and bangles.
Isole della Laguna plays with the theme of camellia, Coco Chanel’s best-loved flower. Inspired by Venetian Murano glass, this iconic blossom is given new meaning and structure in rock crystal, hand-carved into the shape of the classic Chanel camellia, punctuated with diamonds and set in yellow gold.
Spirito de Venezia contemplates the image of the lion – Coco Chanel’s astrological sign and her favorite talisman – and the blue-and-gold starry scene on the rooftop of Saint Mark’s Basilica. The winged lion on the Basilica is guarding the Bible on Chanel’s one-of-a-kind ring – an impressive pear-shaped diamond.
High jewelry by Chanel is almost impossible to put into words. Beautiful? Beyond compare. Stunning? Absolutely. One-of-a-kind? Without question.
Their new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” captures the heart and soul, colors and shapes, air and mood of the city and translates them so precisely into the language of beauty and art that even a person who has never been there can say: This is Venice!
Let the “Escale à Venise” jewels speak for themselves. Give in to their charm. Listen to their story…
 “Si vous ouvriez aujourd’hui une histoire de notre littérature, vous devriez y trouver le nom d’un nouvel auteur classique: Coco Chanel. Chanel n’écrit pas avec du papier et de l’encre (sauf à ses moments perdus) mais avec de l’étoffe, des formes et des couleurs […].” (source: Identités visuelles (Formes sémiotiques) by Jean-Marie Floch).
EDGY BRACELET AND EARRINGS BY THE SURREALIST MAISON
Look closer. Much closer. What do you see?
They look classy and classic but once you realize what they really are, you are bound to smile.
On closer inspection, the splendid, huge, white pearls are… teeth!
Each gold-colored tooth is clutching a massive, teardrop-shaped pearl.
The Large Tooth Earrings and Tooth Bracelet in gilded brass with white pearls, from Schiaparelli’s Autumn–Winter 2020/21 Ready-to-Wear collection are a direct expression of the temperamental and unpredictable nature of the Maison.
The founder of the Maison, Elsa Schiaparelli, was always balancing on the edge of surreal glamour. Experimenting and remodeling classics, submerged in the spectacular art of her close friends Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp and Jean Cocteau, she brought the avant-garde and eccentric vision of art into fashion.
The innovative and influential artist and designer who was the first to use brightly colored zippers and figural buttons resembling small brooches in her clothing designs, the visionary inventor of “Shocking Pink” – the ultra-bright magenta hue – Elsa was not one to err on the side of safety.
Nor was status quo her territory, whether in color choices or in the cuts and shapes of her clothes. Schiaparelli’s divided skirts – predecessors of the modern, chic culottes – caused a straight-out scandal and condemnation by the conservative British press back at the beginning of the 20th century. She challenged, recolored and reshaped what was considered fashionable in sharp contrast to her elegant rival, Coco Chanel, creator of the minimalist, ultra-feminine little black dress.
Schiaparelli reputedly referred to Chanel as to “that dreary little bourgeoisie” and “that milliner”, while Mademoiselle Chanel backlashed with a dismissive “that Italian artist who makes clothes”. Coco Chanel is even said to have tried to set Elsa on fire at a high-society costume ball, just before the outbreak of World War II.
Their takes on jewelry were also diametrically opposite: Chanel’s understated, simple elegance versus Schiaparelli’s unrestrained, never-before-seen shapes and colors.
Today, Maison Schiaparelli continues to produce cool and edgy clothing and jewelry. They dressed Michelle Obama for Barack Obama’s second inauguration and Lady Gaga when she performed The Star-Spangled Banner, America’s national anthem, at Joe Biden’s inauguration.
Daniel Roseberry, Artistic Director of the Maison, summarizes its philosophy in a razor-sharp comment to Vogue (link: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-couture/schiaparelli): “It’s just something that’s not as polite as couture typically tends to be.”
The powerful statement Tooth Earrings and Bracelet by Schiaparelli capture the glorious and most amusing moments of life, the phantasmagorical and hilarious moments of our existence, with the unstoppable creativity and imagination of the Maison’s designers generating an alternative vision to the ubiquitous white pearl classics.
FLIRTATIOUS, TIMELESS AND ULTRAFEMININE, THE HOOPS ARE BACK
Can a man know a woman so well that he can create exactly what she wants?
In a moment of doubt, I recalled James Taffin de Givenchy, a jewelry designer, an expert in exotic gems and the founder of TAFFIN – the eponymous couture jewelry house, creator of pieces that are both zesty and experimental.
James Taffin de Givenchy is an alchemist, balancing emotion, intellect and logic to design one-of-a-kind objects of wearable art.
His easily recognizable designs often feature unconventional materials: rubber, ceramic (Taffin’s signature ingredient), wood, even steel from recycled AK-47s, resulting in thrilling challenges and, on occasion, a royal pain for the house’s jewelers who must find ingenious and innovative solutions to bring those imaginative projects to life. And, ultimately, pure joy for the women who will be wearing them!
Among James’s recent, dreamy creations are large hoop earrings: a delicate lace of carved white jade, sprinkled with rose gold ceramic and turquoise beads.
Time and time again, I’ve come back to these mesmerizing, semitranslucent jade circles: looking for the perfect angle, the perfect light, the perfect painting to reveal their transcendent beauty and breezy vibes. My many searches have at last come to an end with the intriguing portrait of a woman by Chris Gambrell.
Hoop earrings are as old as time. In Ancient Egypt, even cats were pictured with hoops in their ears. Bast, or Bastet – the Egyptian goddess of home, fertility and childbirth, protector of home from evil spirits and disease, embodiment of gracefulness and affection – was sculpted and portrayed as a black cat wearing a gold necklace and gold hoop earrings.
That said, they never fall out of fashion. Throughout a history of ever-changing tastes, trends and styles, these eye-catching classic circles, symbols of eternity, might sometimes accidentally disappear from the horizon, only to make an even more ambitious and spectacular comeback.
The hoops by TAFFIN are back!
For woman, for the goddess, and for a stunning amalgamation of both.
ASTOUNDING AND TIMELESS, CALLA BRACELETS HAVE BECOME EVEN MORE COMFORTABLE AND CLOSER TO THE SKIN
Gold and titanium, monochrome and mixed, metal-only and adorned with signature diamond pavé, with large and medium-sized links, the Calla bracelets by Vhernier are a recognizable, versatile and unique attribute of style, equally capable of elevating а chic, casual outfit or amplifying the splendor of а sublime evening gown.
The Italian jewelry house has transformed the fragile essence of the calla flower into an iconic, rhythmic and meditative succession of precious cones.
Lean, elegant and sensual, the emblematic Calla line by Vhernier, encompassing necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants, has evolved since its conception in 1999, becoming slimmer, more curved and ergonomic to comfortably embrace wrists, fingers, neck and ear lobes without breaking the original aesthetics of the series.
Our favorite version of Calla bracelets with diamond pavé is captivating: viewed from one angle, the diamonds are “hiding”, leaving the pure, laconic, titanium and gold links in pristine glamour. As you rotate your hand, the subtle diamond circles reveal themselves. The smooth cones turn into tiny, stylized rockets, shooting gentle, shiny flames into space around your wrists.
Contemporary and archetypal, the timeless Calla bracelets are a perfect adornment for every stylish wrist.
IN CELEBRATION OF EVERY WOMAN AND EVERY MOTHER
It has become common practice to talk about women and men, femininity and masculinity in terms of Yin and Yang – contradictory, yet inseparable opposites. Women, the traditional representatives of Yin energy, have been celebrated as the sweet, gentle safekeepers of life, while men are destined to conquer, dominate and protect.
But the woman of today is, herself, both Yin and Yang. Balancing ever-increasing demands of family and career, she stands tall as a stronghold of ]opposing powers and idiosyncrasies: а svelte entrepreneur corralling a bunch of happy toddlers; an uncompromising politician with a weak point for her grandkids; a cool-headed brain surgeon who writes children’s books as a hobby; a lightning-fast sprinter, supporting dogs in an animal shelter.
Even when those opposing forces are not as dramatic, they are always there – softness and backbone, daintiness and solidity, centuries-old wisdom and contemporary intelligence – in every woman, in every single one of us. Just look inside to find it.
That is how I discovered the color red: the color of daring, of courage, the lipstick of a femme fatale, the color of fragrant wild strawberries, and of blood, which, let’s face it, is the inescapable companion of every birth, every new life.
Strong, spirited and beautiful: I chose this color as a statement to celebrate Women’s Day and Mother’s Day this year.
The symbolism behind the crimson red earrings from Sylvia Furmanovich’s Amazonia Bamboo collection is striking: the artist turns this common plant, an ordinary building material and food product in South, East, and Southeast Asia, into refined pieces of art. Through her daring designs, attention to detail and passion for traditional and innovative craftsmanship, her mix of precious and semiprecious stones, pearls and metals, she elevates the humble, yet strong and resilient bamboo to the dizzying heights of spicy, delicate and feminine refinement.
This is the quintessence of all the beauty in the world, which would never have happened were it not for the women.
Happy Women’s Day!
And Happy Mother’s Day!
A WOMAN OF VALOR, WHO CAN FIND? FOR HER PRICE IS FAR ABOVE RUBIES
by Naomi Gryn
P. Picasso Maternite' (Mother and Child), 1963 Lithograph
Surprisingly, Britain’s Mothering Sunday – commemorated this year on 14 March – does not share its origins with USA’s Mother’s Day, but grew out of a 16th century custom for worshippers to visit their ‘mother church’ – often a cathedral – for a special service on the fourth Sunday of Lent. Domestic servants would be given the day off to visit their parents, with Lent’s fasting rules relaxed, and often taking with them a gift.
The tradition fell out of fashion by the beginning of the 20th century but was revived by a vicar’s daughter, Constance Penswick-Smith. In time, this became fused in style with the American Mother’s Day which was first established in West Virginia in 1908 by social activist Anna Jarvis to honor the memory of her own mother who had died three years earlier. It caught on like wildfire and by 1914 it had become a national holiday, celebrated on the second Sunday in May.
Appalled by the way Mother’s Day was commercialized, Anna later tried to reverse it. “A printed card means nothing” she wrote, “except that you are too lazy to write to the woman who has done more for you than anyone in the world. And candy! You take a box to Mother—and then eat most of it yourself. A pretty sentiment.”
Is there any love more selfless and unconditional than a mother’s for her children…