By mixing and matching her fondness for Eastern aesthetics with Western cosmopolitan tastes, the Milanese jewelry designer Bea Bongiasca jazzes up her intercultural philosophy and imprints a whimsical, perky and young style into her witty collections ‘No Rice, No Life’, ‘Fluoricultural’, ‘You’re So Wine!’, ‘A Golden Lesson’, ‘Happy Go Cola’.
‘Colorful, pop and ironical’ are the three words Bea chooses to define her creative ideology. Using the knowledge she gained during her trips across Asia, she dove into artistic studies, picking jewelry over sculpture. The result is a petite, adorable fantasy world and a micro-sculpture from a carefree dreamland in every piece. Gold and colorful enamel wines, adorned with vibrant gems, create an illusion of smooth and soft movement. They wrap around your fingers, gently sway in your ears, dynamic and lively, breezy and sweet. New lines, new playful approach to jewelry, bold pop look with a good feminine sense of humor,—to lift your spirits!
The Barcelonan painter Guim Tió Zarraluki performs a reverse—darkly humorous, tragicomically provocative—cosmetic surgery on images from fashion magazines: the images are treated with chemicals and oil pastels, altering the beautiful, pop-cultural faces, photoshopped to perfection, resulting in anonymized, abstract, disturbing portraits with bulgy eyes, grotesque noses and animalistic smiles, or even completely covered in multicolored stripes or bubbles, leaving only a small part of the original image untouched. Like an allegory of people undergoing excessive cosmetic surgery: becoming someone (or something) else in their eloquent attempts to look like a made-up, nonexistent ideal.
Guim’s landscapes, on the other hand, breathe melancholy and serenity, loneliness and peacefulness. Depending on your personality or mood, you may see them as sad or happy, depressing or cool. In the field, in a hammock, at a midnight gas station, in the middle of a lake, at a lighthouse, under the turquoise skies, in the malachite water, on the khaki grass and salmon sand, at the foot of the asphalt grey mountains, little humans are lost—or found?—amidst colossal spaces.
Two young, colorful, full-blooded artists. Bea—the eponym of joy and vitality, sublime and effortless femininity, and Guim—the messenger of the true nature of things, so eerily appealing and borderline spooky, both ingenious in their sense of beautiful and humorous, in the way they see art.
Look closer. What do you see?
From the very beginning of its history, jewelry has showcased status. Produced from rare or difficult-to-mine materials, requiring time-consuming, intricate—to the point of being hazardous—techniques, fine jewelry has always been the trademark of importance, position in the hierarchy.
The pharaohs and queens of Ancient Egypt adored themselves with exquisite jewels made from precious metals, gems and colored glass, while commoners wore jewelry made from rocks, clay, animal teeth and shells. Today the spectrum of materials has broadened immensely and can include all of the above in one piece. Yet, gold and diamonds, sapphires and pearls retain their unshakeable position in the representation of beauty.
Fine, luxurious jewelry is meant to be noticed, even when it comes in the shape and size of tiny, minimalist diamond or pearl stud earrings. Let alone the shiny, filigree, classic and modern, subtle and chunky statement necklaces, screaming for attention: Look at me! Notice me!
Statement necklaces of all sorts, from classical beauty to chunkier modern pieces, and stud earrings of all shapes and colors, from simple diamond drops to complex ornaments, was a palpable trend at the Golden Globes 2020.
Statement necklaces are the ornate, sophisticated frames, drawing attention to the neck, face, hair of the wearer. Stud earrings, no matter if diamond, pearl or metal, will serve forever and work with everything—an easy and painless solution for any occasion.
Look at her, notice her! A gorgeous woman floats through a stunned crowd, making all heads turn. A wealth of little pearl drops shining in her ears, bringing immense, clean light to her face.
THE BOUCHERON JEWELERS HAVE MIXED A COCKTAIL OF IMAGINATION, MODERN DESIGN AND A DROP OF MAGIC – TO RESTYLE THIS LOW-KEY OBJECT INTO AN ICONIC CHAIN OF OUR TIME.
Besides, it is fun!
Available in short and long versions, this innovative jewelry untethers your imagination and breaks new ground for reinventing the ways luxury jewelry may be worn. Try it on—and you can feel the music moving up and down the supple chains, in infinite circles, embracing your neck and waist, coiling and uncoiling around your wrists, the golden melody flowing along with your mood.
Take a closer look at these ingenious creations at the Moda Operandi trunk show.
at heart, herself not knowing why)
loved, in all its cold beauty,
a Russian winter:
rime in the sun upon a frosty day,
and sleighs, and, at late dawn,
the radiance of the rosy snows,
and gloam of Twelfthtide eves.
Eugene Onegin. A Novel in Verse by Aleksandr Pushkin
Decades have passed, and the style was rediscovered by Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel jewelry studio. And thus, from the amalgamation of folklore and imperial symbols—the two otherwise polar opposite dimensions,—a new transplendent collection was born. The motifs, running like a golden thread through the entire collection, are easily recognizable: the cuts, the shapes, the two-headed eagles, the headpieces, the colors and ornaments. Yet, the pieces have been adapted to fit the modern context: by preserving the Russian flavor and sentiment, grandeur and sumptuousness but mixing in a touch of extranational mood. The jewels and the beauty of ‘Le Paris Russe’ transcend the borders of countries and nations and rise above the worldly life with its dramas and conspiracies.
Among the 69 unique pieces, our favorite are the Aigle Cambon ring in white gold and diamonds, the Blé Maria brooch in white and yellow gold with a yellow sapphire, pink spinels, Mandarin garnets, colored tourmalines and diamonds, and the Roubachka necklace in yellow gold and platinum with yellow and white diamonds.
They—and all other artworks in this exquisite collection—are nowhere near subtle and modest. They say: rich, blinding, beautiful, majestic. And thus they will look coupled with the Little Black Dress—the iconic creation of la Grande Mademoiselle.
Every Hermès scarf is a perfect square. But do not make a mistake thinking: ‘It is only a scarf, a rectangular piece of textile’. There is nothing ‘only’ about Hermès. From the first scarf in 1937 and up to this day, the amount of hard work invested in these heavenly light and deceptively material creations is unfathomable. The legend has it that the process of making one scarf, from conception to the final stitches, may take up to a year and a half.
Timeless Hermès scarves have become true artworks, admired, avidly collected and sought after like the most valuable jewelry. Every scarf tells a tale: from traditional hunting motifs to arabesques and fantastic, illusory modern designs. When you have it on, you are wearing a piece of art, a silky dream, an accessory of true actresses, aristocrats and queens.
The Hermès Carré Club exhibition is open from November 29 to December 8 at the Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène-Spuller, 3rd arrondissement, Paris. Free entry, on reservation (open from November 19), every day from 12 pm to 8 pm. The exhibition also offers late evening visits—until 10 pm—on Friday, November 29; Thursday, December 6; and Friday, December 7.
ADMIRE the artworks of two amazing women: Silvia Furmanovich—an unparalleled, daring Brazilian jewelry designer, and Helene Schjerfbeck—a bold, revolutionary Finnish portraitist. Coming from different parts of the world and historical epochs, their pieces synthesize in an anthem to a beautiful, spirited and progressive woman.
A woman who will always be an inspiration, no matter the time and place on Earth…
Silvia Furmanovich is a unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry. Her eloquent masterpieces arouse more than the sense of vision: you can smell the fresh and autumnal leaves, rainforests, the deep woodiness and the light grassiness; you can hear the rustle of dry branches under the soft paws of wild animals, the airy breath of the wind under butterfly’s wings, the soft sound of wind chimes. You can almost taste it: the alluring precious stones melting on your tongue like delicious, colorful drops of candy, counterbalanced by sweet and salty, woody licorice. And you sure can touch it: the natural shapes, brought to life by Silvia’s imagination and the Nature herself, the geometric lines and the soft curvatures, the perfectly balanced substance and lightness.
Inspired by nature and transformed into inimitable masterpieces, balancing somewhere in between delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, with the most unexpected combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, miniature paintings on wood, seashells and even mushrooms, these designs are strong, noticeable, full of color and life. Butterflies, birds, sceneries, flowers, ornaments: the designer with an open mind and heart has travelled the world in search of inspiration and skills that would bring her collections to the peak of creation, ready to see, absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures and indigenous artisans.
The three pieces, worn by a charismatic young lady of Helene Schjerfbeck, are marquetry landscape fan earrings (gold, light brown diamonds and green tourmaline), botanical marquetry cuff (gold and diamonds), and marquetry red leaf fan earrings (gold, prasiolite and light brown diamond).
As mesmerizing as they are, they represent only a miniscule part of the Silvia Furmanovich’s collection. Much more of this sensual beauty is available for all your five senses at the Moda Operandi trunk show.
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BIRDS AND CLOUDS. STONES AND GOLD. STARS AND SUNS.
Touch the sky. Catch the birds. Fly with the clouds. Dive into the lightning. Impossible?
Not anymore, if you know where to look. Maison Chaumet, the Parisian jewelry house since 1780, presents a new 2019 High Jewelry collection, evoked by the skies—Les Ciels De Chaumet: celestial masterpieces for graceful terrestrial beings.
The name of the collection is the direct reference to the creator’s muse. The jewelers of the Maison drew inspiration in the clear and cloudy skies, the radiance of the sun, the movement of the stars, the bolts of lightning; in the paintings of Picasso and Matisse, Van Gogh and Turner; in the poems of Nerval and Mallarmé. Tiaras and brooches, necklaces and earrings—the free-flowing rhapsodies to woman’s beauty, contemporary femininity, delicate symbolism behind every piece.
The collection is stunning: light, delicate, young-spirited, modern and perfectly balanced. Comprised of so many stones, the pieces—bound to look massive and heavy—look airy and fresh. Through the incredible color combinations and artisan craftsmanship, Chaumet substantializes the metamorphoses of the sky, gives them shape, transforming emotions into intricate masterpieces.
The collection comprises four themes, four moods of the sky: the evanescent clouds and the whimsical lightning in Les Caprices du Ciel; the nuances of the sun in Les Couleurs du Ciel; the beaming stars in Les Fulgurances du Ciel; and the precious birds in the Les Habitants du Ciel.
Our favorite pieces, all in white and yellow gold, are the ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ ring, set with an Imperial topaz, yellow sapphires and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ ring, set with diamonds; ‘Lueurs d’Orage’ earnings, set with Imperial topazes, pink morganites, sapphires, onyx and diamonds; ‘Nuages d’Or’ earrings, set with yellow sapphires and diamonds; and ‘Envol’ earrings, set with diamonds, tsavorite garnets, and yellow and green sapphires.
The powerful, elemental symbols behind these oeuvres d’art speak to the innermost essence of the celestial dome, glorified and feared by our ancestors and vastly explored, yet still keeping many secrets, in the modern ages.
The traces of falling stars in the earrings, the lace of constellations in the diadems, the modulations of capricious storm in the necklaces. Now you know where to look—to rediscover the skies…
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A rare opportunity to get hold of atemporal, sophisticated, futuristic Vhernier pieces at the Moda Operandi trunk show. Shop your favorite pieces online.
Started by a sculptor and a connoisseur of jewelry back in 1984, this tradition of the house of Vhernier is carried on by the highly skilled master goldsmiths of the house up to this day.
Each piece of jewelry is shaped like a miniature modern structure, a one-of-a-kind avant-garde building, with an eye toward the environment where it will be exhibited. Like the graceful Italian architectural masterpieces are developed bearing in mind their surroundings, the precious pieces of Vhernier jewelry are crafted with the view of the wearer’s body and the ambient space.
The soft, geometric shapes, the flowing twists, the most unexpected blending of diamonds and ebony, rose gold and jet, titanium and kogolong, the precision of stonesetting pay a tribute to the unique style and intricate technology, classiness and confidence, futuristic beauty and innovation. The sophisticated, experimental, unorthodox spirit of the Milanese house brings its jewelry beyond the realm of reality and fashion.
The pieces themselves are often impressive in size but never heavy or overbearing, their clean lines and laconic fluidity laying the foundation for the recognizable style. This distinctive Vhernier paradox echoes the dual nature of a modern woman: strong yet graceful, captivating yet subtle.
A classy woman that is wearing cool chic Vhernier pieces can never be forgotten….
Illustration by INKYCUBANS
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AN ETHEREAL WALTZ OF DIAMONDS, FEATHERS AND GOLDEN THREADS TO THE SOUNDS OF LUXURIOUS TICKING…
A well-dressed gentleman on the Felix Vallotton’s painting waiting for someone. The woman… The sweetheart… the lover…
The time will come—and he will hear the door creak and see tiny splashes of light reflecting from filigree diamonds on the graceful wrist.
Dior is out with а new, absolutely charming version of Dior Grand Bal. Without losing their functionality, Dior watches have become a true Fine Jewelry fashion piece, a combination of art and technology. A unique technique of incorporating feathers, embroidered with diamonds, melts the boundaries between high-tech and nature, airiness and imperishability.
Watch the black feathers do an atmospheric dance against the zoisite dial, enclosed in a golden ring and surrounded by diamonds. The brightly lit royal halls, to the sound of Straussian waltz, riffle of ball gowns and whisper of court ladies, gossiping about Her Majesty’s affair,— continue in this innovative, mesmerizing, intricate masterpiece.
The contrast between green, gold and red transcends into perfect classiness. This Dior Grand Bal watch shows more than time—it shows timelessness…
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VAN CLEEF’S “TREASURE OF RUBIES” COLLECTION PAYS HOMAGE TO HISTORY WITH A COLLECTION OF 60 ONE-OF-AKIND PIECES SHOWCASING THE RUBY IN ITS EXCEPTIONAL SPLENDOR.
One of the world’s most dazzling and sought-after jewels, the ruby gemstone has inspired poets and warlords for generations. Its evocative red hue can take on tones from bright ember to blood red, making it the most primally evocative of the big four gemstones. High jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has paid homage to the ruby since 1906, incorporating it into some of its most expressive creations, and has released a collection in the stone’s honor.
Van Cleef’s Treasure of Rubies collection pays homage to this history with a collection of 60 one-of-a-kind pieces showcasing the ruby in its exceptional splendor. The journey to collect the 3,000 carats of certified rubies used in the collection began in 2016 and has yielded a veritable treasure trove of red hues which Van Cleef has leveraged in its latest set of creations.
Each piece is exceptional, but a number of them stand apart. Among these is the incredible Priya transformable long necklace, set in pink gold and featuring one carved ruby of 25.23 carats, 214 ruby beads for 123.09 carats, pink sapphires, white pearls, and diamonds. The Jardin de Rubis necklace is a reinterpretation of summer woodland berries scattered across the neckline and giving way to a beautiful 18.12 carat ruby with remarkable purity and color.
The Treasure of Rubies collection is more than a celebration of the ruby: it’s in keeping with Van Cleef’s long tradition of quality and creativity using the stone, from its use in the first Mystery Set pieces, including the 1937 Double Peony clip, to Jacques Arpel’s 1982 declaration that rubies were his favorite stones. Nearly 40 years later, the tradition stands perhaps more firmly than ever before.
Illustrations by @alicavanaugh
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DON’T MISS THE LAST WEEK TO SEE THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXHIBITION “CHAUMET IN MAJESTI” AT THE GRIMALDI FORUM OF MONACO UNTILL THE 28TH OF AUGUST!!!
You may only associate tiaras with princesses and fairy tales, but they’re making a comeback. We suspect it’s a conflation of the global elite’s creative play coupled with newly reinvigorated female empowerment, but tiaras have found their way into the jewelry cabinets and even boardrooms (!) around the world.
Regardless their use (the boardroom example is real – one Chinese businesswoman is said to occasionally don a tiara during special business gatherings), tiaras are always a statement, an exclamation point – and a distinctly feminine one at that.
One jewelry house notably has tiaras on lock: Chaumet has made tiaras for over 200 years, with their oldest example dating to 1811.Chaumet was commissioned to create a tiara for Empress Josephine in the late 19th century and has over 3,000 tiaras in its archive; they continue to produce a limited number every year, may of which are special orders for powerful women looking for something special. In a world seeking differentiation and distinction, the elegant tiara is again taking its place as queenmaker.
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WITH THE RICH DIVERSITY OF COLORS AND NATURAL MATERIALS AVAILABLE FOR DESIGNERS AND CREATORS, IT’S NO WONDER THE OCEAN PLAYS SUCH A CENTRAL ROLE IN MANY COLLECTIONS – ESPECIALLY FOR THE SUMMER. HERE YOU’LL FIND SOME OF OUR FAVORITES.
The strength and enigma of the ocean have been my main sources of inspiration for several weeks now. Watching waves through my window has been my primary landscape, and seeing such power and variation paired with such stillness and repetition has me in something of a trance. It’s amazing how something so technical – the translation of wind and tide into such visible, obvious power – can yield such inspiration and beauty.
The gorgeous photography of Andrea Hamilton has proven to be compelling company for this too, her work capturing the ocean’s power and movement so fully that I can feel it.
In line with these meandering summer thoughts, I’ve picked up the most gorgeous drop earrings from Amrapali. The color play of their deeply colored blue-green tanzanite stones is unforgettable.
To pair with some of these pieces check out an awesome great summer dress by Johanna Ortiz, and a few additional fine jewelry pieces, including Amrapali, Wendy Yue, Lizzie Fortunato, Yi Collection, Matteo x Muzo.
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MK’s PICKS FOR A HAPPY AND GLAMOROUS SUMMER 2019
More and more, people are rediscovering the joys of traveling light. I think back to my younger days and how I would pack suitcases full of beautiful things for my summer holidays, only to lug them around and be faced with my own frustration when I would get home, unpack, and see how many of my things went unused…
Luckily, over the years I have learned and my bags have become smaller and smaller. I’ve learned to pare down and prioritize, and I can see more clearly things I can’t go without. This year I can’t resist my favorite Johanna Ortiz swimsuits and those very summery, casually chic strappy dresses from Graces of London. I’ve also found some gorgeous and beautiful hats at Moda Operandi (to, you know, keep the sun away and my skin healthy and glowing). I’ve also added in a few precious jewelry pieces from Silvia Furmanovich and Federica Rettore for good measure, since I am a jewelry lover after all!
Cosmetics/Beauty: The beauty department is especially tough in the summer, since the threat of the sun makes it feel like we need everything. But I have some essentials that I’ve decided I can’t do without. Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection SPF 45 is probably one of the best products in the market. Very easy to apply, leaves your skin with such a soft, velvety effect. They have a SPF 15 tinted moisturizer, too, which I love. Cheek Gelee offers a very natural, summery effect. For the evenings I use a tiny drop of their illuminator as well.
Philip Kingsley is the best product for hair that I have found so far – elasticizer is a must for the summer, in case you swim a lot and your hair is inevitably exposed to the sun. You may also enjoy their after sun scalp mask and weatherproof hair spray. I picked up a few of my favorite shampoos for the summer: Re-Moisturizing Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner, Moisture Extreme Hydrating Shampoo – are the best one. They can seem a little heavy, but are better in the long run for hair that is constantly wet, sandy, and being washed.
And finally, I can’t do this summer without l’Artisan Parfumeur’s Bana Banana fragrance. It’s light and gentle with a very peculiar ingredient – banana?! – that blends surprisingly and beautifully with Jasmine. Give it a try!
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THE NAME DAVID MORRIS IS SYNONYMOUS WITH HIGH BRITISH JEWELRY, THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE GEMSTONES AND SUBTILE TASTE
Leading ladies have dazzled wearing his designs in no less than 14 James Bond movies. And the British luxury jeweller that is David Morris continues to attract celebrity clients in scores. Oh, and get commissions from royal families: a David Morris creation was seen on the bonnet of the vintage Aston Martin car chosen by the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge for their wedding day.
What is it about this London designer whose creations form part of the permanent exhibition of the Jewellery Room at the V&A. What is distinctive about this London brand, with its workshop on Bond Street, that has made it a destination for dealers in big coloured gems the world over?
I think it’s what is best described as the jewelry’s softness. Although there aren’t many men with golden guns milling around, there are plenty of James Bond girls in the world! And David’s jewelry is perfect for them: the spirit and soul of Bond style with constantly original takes on the genre.
These are some of my favourite David Morris pieces, all of which can be purchased online. Hakan Arblom’s illustrations showcase them beautifully.
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NIKOS KOULIS’ LATEST COLLECTION IS A BRILLIANT RETHINKING OF THE SNAKE CHAIN
I am not usually a fan of the snake chain. When I try one on, it never feels quite right.
Until I came across Nikos Koulis’ take on the snake chain I presumed this was because it was a style of jewelry best suited to women in their 20s. But the Greek jeweler who won the the Best in Gold category at this year’s Couture Design Award has changed my mind.
I love the knot silhouettes in his latest collection Feelings, and the way white and yellow gold are woven around diamonds and black enamel. It’s very cool indeed. Inspired by the designer’s childhood memories of the boat ropes he would see while walking though island ports, ‘feelings’ are exactly what this sensitive, creative collection elicits in me, too.
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#DONTMISS the Auction is today!
SALE OVERVIEW: Christies Important Jewels Auction
The London Important Jewels sale on 12 June features a beautiful array of period and modern pieces ranging from £1,000 to £350,000. The auction also features fine coloured gems and diamonds, Art Déco jewels and a grouping of modern creations from the foremost jewellery maisons including Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, Lacloche, Schlumberger, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others.
I’m wearing Art Deco Diamond Earrings, Chanel Diamond ‘Camelia’ ring, elegant George III diamond ear pendants.
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Luz Camino’s beautiful brooch is a timely reminder of how important it is to conserve the olive tree
The health properties of olive oil’s unique molecule oleuropein are staggering. It can lower blood pressure and cholesterol, help guard against cognitive decline and even prevent cancer. But the beautiful tree whence it all comes, a tree long associated with wisdom, its branches a symbol of peace, can’t cope with the changing climate and rain fall brought by global warming. Its green fruit are literally withering on the vine.
This cool brooch, crafted in silver, enamel and olive tree wood, and designed to resemble an actual olive branch, is a beautiful and salutary wake-up call. It is so important to conserve this ancient tree that has been considered sacred since ancient times.
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