WHAT CAN WE SAY WHEN THE SKY IS FALLING?
In these dark times how can we go to work and go about our daily routines when somewhere – not so far away – people just like you and me are losing everything they have: lives, health, homes, parents, children, friends, hopes, youth, love, freedom?
How can we, in our sophisticated, modern society, live with this?!
I remember, a decade ago, when I was just starting my career and trying to make sense of the fashion world, I admired Franca Sozzani (then editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia), who had a smart way of covering events happening around the globe: without polemic, but rather through incredible, expressive photoshoots.
I’ve promised myself that my art curation articles will never be subject to geopolitical context and opinions. However, today I’m finding it extremely difficult to stay neutral.
I continue working with a huge hole in my heart, praying for children who have lost their parents, for desperate mothers losing their young sons.
Time and time again I ask myself: isn’t it superficial to continue writing about material things such as art and jewelry when there is so much urgent pain? Today I had a tiny breakthrough:
There are no limits to ugliness, nor to beauty. There are no limits to pain, nor to happiness. There are no limits to how much people can destroy, nor to the beauty that they can create.
And there is also hope in the realization that there are still people around us who are able to create rather than to destroy.
Here is a piece of Nomis jewelry, born in Kyiv, Ukraine. A little piece from the fragile world of beauty, to represent the immense creativity and the beautiful people of Ukraine…
THE RIBBONS OF DIOR FOUND THEIR WAY INTO HIGH JEWELRY. AND THEY ARE HERE TO STAY.
We are all somewhat asymmetric. An ironically raised eyebrow, a lopsided smile, a flirtatious dimple on a cheek: this slight asymmetry is what makes our faces look emotional.
In the new high jewelry collection from Dior – Galons Dior – combinations of straight lines, curves, circles, dots, triangles, ovals, rectangles, spheres, cubes, cuboids and prisms of gems are arranged in delightfully irregular shapes from varying styles and epoch, demonstrating Victoire de Castellane’s revolutionary approach to jewelry: the modern eclecticism.
A new wave in the industry, these pieces are highly desirable and effortlessly wearable. All 81 original pieces, encrusted with clear diamonds, dreamy sapphires, luscious rubies and vibrant emeralds, intertwine twirling, waltzing ribbons: galons. Spontaneous and harmonious, they are sublime combinations of the incompatible.
Inspiration drawn from couture is not new to the creative director of Dior Joaillerie. Take, for example, the 2014 Archi Dior high jewelry collection, designed by Victoire de Castellane, which includes the Bar en Corolle emerald bracelet that resembles the sumptuous shape of Dior’s emblematic Bar jacket, while petal-shaped diamond earrings echo the anatomy of Dior’s Junon gown.
The clothes we wear are asymmetric, spontaneously swishing, whirling and creasing as we move. Beautifully cut hair is blown by the wind into the most unexpected shapes. But if those shapes have been brought to life by a true master, this seeming imperfection approaches perfection: appealing, enigmatic and tempting.
As tempting as the refined asymmetry of Galons Dior.
THE FRENCH JEWELER DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM ONE OF THEIR MOST IMPRESSIVE ORDERS OF THE PAST. BORING? AU CONTRAIRE – UTTERLY ASTONISHING!
If a Maharajah opened the doors of Boucheron’s studio today, what would he say?
The Maharajahs of India did not mind dressing up in the most expensive, sumptuous and rarе gems from tip to toe. The extravagant Maharajah Sir Bhupinder Singh, ruler of the princely state of Patiala from 1900 to 1938, was no exception – rather, an exemplary connoisseur of opulent and magnificent jewels.
According to Alain Boucheron, in 1927, the pompous arrival of the Maharajah to Place Vendôme was accompanied by caskets filled with a prodigious amount of precious stones -emeralds, sapphires, rubies and pearls (Master Jewelers by A. Kenneth Snowman).
A tribute to prosperity, high mastership and extreme beauty, Boucheron’s New Maharajah collection stands at the junction of two eras, two distinctive cultures and mindsets: those grandiose jewels created by Boucheron for the Maharajah of the past, and twenty-first century Europe.
Boucheron is building a bridge across centuries and continents. The Maison’s Creative Director, Claire Choisne, revisited one of the most desirable orders ever placed at Place Vendôme and figured out what they could offer to a modern Maharajah.
An epitome of jewelry tradition and history, this French luxury jewelry house, dating back to the 19th century, brings together advanced technology, cutting-edge craftsmanship, the highest industry standards and impressive heritage jewels.
In this new collection, curious and innovative Claire made a radical decision to use, with just a few exceptions, mainly transparent and white gems and metals: diamonds, pearls, rock crystal and white gold. She modernized the archive designs by resizing them and making them multifunctional, to fit the purposes and lifestyle of the contemporary international elite.
The New Maharani parure comprises three dramatic and delicate necklaces: the Majestic Lotus Necklace, the Crystal Necklace, and the Nacre Necklace, which were designed to be worn together. However, each of these masterpieces also shines on its own. Besides, the necklaces may be disassembled, rearranged and transformed into multiple wearable versions.
In the monochrome Majestic Lotus Choker Necklace, resembling, according to Claire Choisne, a diamond lace, diamonds intersperse with the pure drops of rock crystal to make the magnificent, transformable piece look featherlight.
The New Maharani Crystal Necklace, with several strands of carved stone crystal, interspersed with diamond details and white pearls, is closed at the back with cords and adorned with pearl tassels.
Meanwhile, the New Maharani Nacre Necklace has a large, flat tassel, crowned with a diamond and mother-of-pearl lotus flower, and can be transformed into as many as seven different forms, including a short necklace and two pearl bracelets.
Rock crystal symbolizes purity of thought, innocence and fidelity. The ten subtle New Churiyans Bracelets were inspired by the bangles of Indian brides. Their coquettish, tinkling sound is a subtle reminder of the wearer’s presence at any occasion and in any location. When not adorning the wrist, they can be stored on a mother-of-pearl bobbin, designed specifically for them.
The product of innovation and the inquisitive mind of the creators, this retrospect with its modern outlook is anything but old-fashioned. The advanced technology and design, the sublime, monochrome and tastefully transparent palette, intelligent and masterful use of beaming diamonds, opalescent pearls and water-clear crystal make for an astonishing result, bound to remain in the history of jewelry.
IF “EMOTIONAL JEWELS WITH THE INTENSITY OF A LOVE AFFAIR” IS WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR, YOU CAME TO THE RIGHT PLACE
Master of design, Nikos Koulis effortlessly fuses the strict, geometric motifs of Art Deco with refined, feminine flavor. Dynamic and light, with clean lines and intricate settings, his pieces radiate timeliness and timelessness with luxury expressed through a prism of meticulous craftsmanship and quality.
Nikos Koulis has a growing collection of trophies for his designs: the GEM Award 2020 in Jewelry Design; Couture Design Award 2015 in the Bridal Category; in 2016 and 2018 in the Haute Couture Category; in 2019 in the Gold Category – and the list goes on. But we should let his pieces speak for themselves.
A dynamic and flawless blend of gold, diamonds, colored gems and enamel produce ever-relevant jewels with a liberating, modern twist.
Most of Nikos’s collections are implemented in the classic black and white palette, while the addition of deep green emeralds, sensual pearls and seductive rubies adds a game-changing, uplifting touch.
The three pieces featured in this article, all set with white diamonds and emeralds, from the V and the Universe Line collections, carry a straightforward message: design dominates.
Nikos plays with shapes, repetitions and deceptively simple combinations to achieve a distinctive aesthetic: quintessential sophistication mixed with Western minimalism. The open triangle earrings from the V collection, in white gold, with white diamonds, emeralds and glossy black enamel, are an elegant experiment with the classic geometric shape.
The dangling, long earrings from the same collection, in white gold, set with white diamonds and emeralds, are a stunner. The exquisite stones in special shades and cuts are sourced by Nikos Koulis from all over the world.
In the long, chandelier earrings from his Universe Line collection – white gold with white diamonds and emerald – the masterful use of clear, translucent enamel enriches the natural radiance of the gems.
Nikos Koulis has tapped into the zeitgeist of today. Will he also become the designer of the future? With the artistic potential that he has exhibited so far, he sure can.
YOU CANNOT KEEP LOCKED IN A BOTTLE THE BUBBLING JOY AND BEAUTY: EARRINGS FROM THE NEW CHANEL COLLECTION ARE PROOF.
As I fiddle with the perfectly shaped bottle of Chanel N°5, touching its smooth glass filled with delicious scent, I am thinking: what if, by rubbing this vessel of fragrant charm, I could summon a genie?
What would I wish each and every one of you for 2022?
The Golden Stopper Earrings from Chanel’s new high jewelry Collection N°5 – the recognizable cork and bubbly burst of magnetism – are a concoction of enthusiasm, refinement and delight.
One earring, to open the bottle, is geometric and straightforward, a chiseled stopper reflecting the architecture and proportions of Place Vendôme, admired by Coco Chanel from the balcony of her room at the Ritz. The other – a vivacious splash of precious stones, a rapid movement – like droplets from a bottle of New Year champagne.
A hundred and twenty-three pieces within Chanel’s new Collection N°5 have been designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary perfume. Since 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman”, created by Gabrielle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, has been a staple of sophistication and confidence, a potent elixir of sensuality and femininity, and, without doubt, the most famous perfume in the world.
Coco Chanel is believed to have said: “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.”
Watching bubbles of champagne escape from the bottle on New Year’s night, I wish each and every one of you good health, warm evenings with your loved ones, cheerful mornings sparkling with ambition for discoveries and creation, and all the beauty that the world can give.
Thank you for another year with the Jewelry Icon!
Illustration by INCYCUBANS
RINGS, NECKLACES AND BANGLES IN A VARIETY OF PRECIOUS COMBINATIONS – FOR ANY MOOD, OUTFIT AND OCCASION.
Tie your precious memories together into a tight and elegant knot with Engelbert’s rings, necklaces and bangles.
Available in a variety of combinations – white gold and white diamonds, yellow gold and black diamonds, rose gold and white diamonds, and in many shapes – fat knots, slim knots, tight knots, loose knots – they all come from one of the Engelbert’s most significant collections.
Created within one of the most prominent jewelry houses of Scandinavia, the Absolutely Knot collection blends together the laconic charm and inmost recesses of the creative and stoic Nordic soul: beauty that is bound to last for ages and rise above any transient fashion crazes.
Look at the playful ease with which the intricate diamond pavé follows the curves of a tricky, twisted silhouette! These knots will work with everything and for everyone: any day and time of the year, a t-shirt or a dress, an extravagant fashionista or a stylish purist, a fancy soirée or a sentimental evening in an old bistro.
In aviation and in maritime affairs knots are still used when navigating an aircraft or ship, even though they do not fit within the modern metric system, because the length of a nautical mile (a base for the knot) is closely related to the longitude and latitude of the geographic coordinate system. Knots, as we all know, are also symbols of strong bond and affection.
How many times have you tied a knot just to watch it untie itself in a matter of hours or even minutes? The knots by Engelbert will stay tied forever, reflecting the strength and the length that people will go to find, connect with and never let go of their loved ones.
PIECES FOR A PERSONALITY THAT SHINE AND COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER
Illustration by Chris Gambrell
Als men waarachtig van de natuur houdt dan vindt men ’t overal mooi.
If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere.
Vincent van Gogh in a letter to his brother Theo
An artist’s creation is the child of that artist. This is true for the cult Spanish jewelry designer Luz Camino – an indisputable authority on botanical representations in jewelry and on rendering mundane, common and unexpected objects with a new, sublime perspective.
In Spanish, “luz” means “light”. Even last year, in the epicenter of the pandemic, Luz Camino – an amazing artist and a radiant, warm and sophisticated person – managed to find peace and beauty amidst the uncertainty, and to continue with her creative ventures.
Today, Luz continues to shine that light onto everything she picks up, turning each item into a miniature, dreamy piece of art.
From exquisite, expensive stones and precious metals to tin cans, Luz competently uses any materials and artefacts that she sees fit for her purposes. Through innovative techniques, experiments and a powerful imagination, she takes her jeweler’s skills to extremes and elevates ordinary objects far above the monotony of humdrum days.
To see charm in a wilting flower requires a unique type of personality, but to be able to capture its evanescent beauty in a piece of wearable art is an entirely different level of finesse. Luz Camino is capable of it all: the subdued palette of the Wilted Hydrangea Earrings, in plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds, silver and gold, is a perfect match for every skin tone, accentuating the peculiar beauty of a human ear and serving as its refined and natural extension.
In the large, statement Freesia Brooch, enamel, agate, silver and gold meet snow-white, delicate porcelain. Feminine, fragile and bold, this sweetly fragrant flower can act as the dramatic and quirky centerpiece for a severe business suit or as the effortless and essential companion to a feather-light silk scarf.
Like little children in a kindergarten, every single piece within the new collection is unique: with a strong and delicate, enchanting and challenging personality as well as a deep, yet-to-be-discovered world behind shiny eyes, each waiting to blossom in the cherishing light of the right wearer.
Most creations come in a limited edition; some, like the Dragonfly, Falcon Hunting Hood, Alpine Soldanella and Blackberry brooches, are one-of-a-kind. So, don’t wait too long! For more information on the new Luz Camino’s collection and the trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman, visit www.luzcamino.com/bergdorf and enjoy the wonderful views.
VIVACIOUS, FRESH AND ENERGIZING: ELECTRIC GREEN EARRINGS TO ELEVATE SPIRITS AND MAKE A GOOD MOOD EVEN BETTER
Want to enjoy art, design and nature – all the beautiful things – for the long-long years of your life? Then you need more green!
Amazing scenery, objects of art and jewelry, all desire to be seen with your eyes. But have you heard the great news? Higher intake of green, leafy vegetables is associated with a lower risk of glaucoma, which is a leading cause of blindness?!
Some researchers in neurology, psychology and ophthalmology believe that the color green possesses a sedative effect: sensitivity to green objects might affect our hormonal production, which, in turn, influences our mood and calms us down.
Hail to the green!
Green is the universal color of nature, leaves, meadows, oxygen-producing algae and life, recognizable to any person from any country and any cultural background. Nak Armstrong offers fans of his jewelry many variations of this luscious, upbeat, electric green: Anemone Earrings in emerald, Ethiopian opal and diamonds; Parrot Earrings featuring acid-green tourmaline half-moons, emerald pavé, tourmaline triangles, tanzanite trillions and large Ethiopian opal drops; and Mini Pendulum Earrings, from the jewelry house’s Florapiega collection.
Nak finds inspiration in nature which he reinterprets, deconstructs and reconstructs in pieces of modern jewelry art. He also explores, invents and perfects his own metalworking and stone-setting techniques to challenge and change the way the gems and metals interact, modify and redefine each other.
In his creations, Nak delivers a perfect balance between jewelry impressionism and cubism: small, delicate brush strokes, alongside abstracted and fragmented depictions of flowers, birds and leaves.
The ideal perfume to go with this lush greenery of precious stones and elaborate designs is a new, unisex fragrance from Frederic Malle: Synthetic Jungle by Anne Flipo, a modern, bright, delicious and provocative take on nature, with top notes of basil, galbanum and black currant, middle notes of lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang and almond, and base notes of patchouli and oak moss.
Eat more greens, take care of both your eyes and mind, and enjoy the invigorating view of bright green jewelry by Nak Armstrong!
A HIGH JEWELRY BRAND PUSHES BOUNDARIES AND INVITES US ALL TO EXPERIMENT
Contemporary jewelry has no rules and no limits: it stands for the freedom of adornment and facilitates the metamorphosis of beauty into a powerful statement.
The Nomis brand, created by Alena Kiperman, aims to provide the most luxurious of tools to capture your emotions and transform them into elegant, sincere, offbeat and avant-garde manifests.
Rings which can be turned into earcuffs, distinctive earovals (yes, it is a thing!) and earclips, tribal and punkish earpins which in the blink of an eye become pendants, unisex necklaces can be worn separately as statement pieces, or mixed together in phantasmagoric, luxurious and provocative combinations.
Nomis jewelry is made in 18ct gold and lab-grown stones. Due to their unique qualities, man-made diamonds, emeralds and sapphires have long been used outside the jewelry industry, including high tech, bringing the future closer to us.
The jewelry of the future must keep up with the times.
Nomis has been created for people with a heightened sense of freedom. Cool and edgy, emphatic and elegant, this mind-blowing, experimental and multifunctional jewelry is easy to wear, fits any style and and any time of the day.
Experiment and express yourself, create your own fantasy and reality with the Nomis jewelry!
THE CLASSIC LUXURY JEWELRY HOUSE RETURNS TO ITS CLASSIC MOTIFS: SO, WHAT’S NEW?
Art by Lolita Pelegrime
Fallen stars return to us in solid, strong, bold shapes and refined designs, merging into intricately sculptured golden bas-reliefs.
This new interpretation of the Zodiac by Van Cleef & Arpels evolved from the Zodiaque medals created in the 1970s, in the tradition of Poetic Astronomy, their signature theme.
Scattered across the vast expanse of space, from the surface of our planet stars appear as two-dimensional constellations, connecting them as if they were stories, shared by cultures across centuries and continents.
Wearing a Zodiac sign no longer requires unconditional commitment to its meaning. With such an old and elaborate system, Zodiacs have become more than the brief horoscopes that appear on the back page of a popular tabloid. They carry as much meaning as you choose to ascribe to them: the moment of your birth, the time you spend on earth, how you see yourself and other people, and how you deal with your differences and relationships.
In this new collection, the celestial signs, born in Western astrology, are represented in two versions: two sets of spectacular golden pendant necklaces, with and without symbolic stones. The medals, hanging on long, golden chains, depict the respective Zodiac signs on the front side, with dates on the reverse.
In one version, the stylized Zodiac animals are shaped against ornamental stones. Blue quartz, earthly brown pietersite, stripped tiger iron, bluish green amazonite, dark obsidian, bright green aventurine, dark green malachite, bright blue turquoise and deep blue lapis lazuli: the jewelers and designers of Van Cleef & Arpels did a great job researching the qualities of these curious gems, the way they interplay with the golden symbols and their meanings.
Тhe energy of the four elements of the Zodiac – fire, air, earth, and water – shows through the selection of unconventional stones: blue for water signs (Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces), green(ish) for earth (Taurus, Virgo, and Capricorn), the deep hues of the night sky for Air (Gemini, Libra, and Aquarius), and dramatic ochre and bronze, evoking flames and lava, for fire (Aries, Leo, and Sagittarius).
A more conservative, forever classic version of the Zodiac comes in twelve massive medals in polished yellow gold: to be passed from generation to generation whether as a talisman, a lucky charm or an inspiring piece of family heritage, whispering to the heirs a poetic story about the style, character and life of its original wearer.