ONE MORE MASTERPIECE BY THE AVANT-GARDE GERMAN JEWELER TO MAKE YOUR SUMMER EVEN BRIGHTER
They are autographs of angels, penned In Nature’s green-leaved book, in blended tints, Borrowed from rainbows and the sunset skies, And written everywhere - on plain and hill Thank God for flowers! They gladden human hearts; Seraphic breathings part their fragrant lips With whisperings of Heaven.
From the poem Flowers by Albert Laighton
Bright, cheerful gerberas have long been a symbol of purity, while their simplicity, their myriads of radiant colors and gentle caramel aroma lift the spirits and fill the atmosphere with the sunny energy of life.
Legend has it that a beautiful nymph was never left alone by admirers so she transformed herself into a humble yet wonderful wildflower to shake off their unwanted attention.
The floral earrings by fourth-generation German jewelry house Hemmerle resemble orange gerbera daisies, featuring two spessartite garnets, resting in between the petals of anodized aluminum and bronze.
These rich, luscious, orange stones form a perfect duet with the design and mood of the earrings: a symphony to sun, warmth and beauty. Interestingly, the name of gerbera is also associated with Germany: it was named after a German medic and botanist Traugott Gerber.
Look closer at this beautiful flower: you will be surprised to see that its big head is actually composed of hundreds of little flowers. The jewelers of Hemmerle managed to capture this vibrant vivacity and spicy zest, its resemblance to the solar disc, surrounded by petals of light.
Floral earrings by Hemmerle: juicy colors for the lazy summer siesta and a display of warmth for an elegant winter soirée.
VOLUMINOUS, ECLECTIC AND FLUID – JEWELS TO BE WORN AND ADMIRED EVERY DAY
Timeless, lightweight and bohemian, this new high jewelry collection is as impressive and exquisite as the two women behind it.
Messika by Kate Moss is the fruit of close collaboration between a marvelous jewelry designer and a world-famous supermodel, fashion icon and muse – two powerful women with unique and catchy tastes and ideas.
They met on the set of a Messika campaign shot by Australian photographer Chris Colls, when Kate Moss became the face of Messika Paris for the second year in a row.
During the shoot, Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of Messika Jewelry, spotted Kate’s love for diamonds. They shared a common vision of diamond jewelry not as the representation of power and wealth but as a sign of individuality and a staple of distinctive personal style, which could be worn and enjoyed at any time, not just on big occasions: easily and contemporarily, spontaneously and organically.
The heart of the collection is in Kate Moss’s own jewelry box which, at first sight, might seem poles apart from Messika’s designs. Art Deco, hippy 70s, bohemian pieces, an antique Indian snake, a diamond and emerald ring. Different eras, styles and cultures, You might think that Kate’s eclectic and sometimes surprising taste might have daunted Valérie. Not a bit! On the contrary, it ignited the passionate designer, renowned for her disruptive vision of jewelry and for breaking conventions, and prompted her to find a synergetic way of combining Kate’s unique style and love for vintage pieces with Messika’s modern spirit and diamond expertise.
Through constant collaboration and discussion, visits between London and Paris, incessant reviewing of CAD drawings and messaging about what the pieces would look and feel like, the two artists reached perfect harmony – and an astonishing result: the Messika by Kate Moss high jewelry collection.
The lace-shaped Exotic Charm cuff and earrings and the Diamond Wave ring from this new collection are refined and bold, delicate and strong, extraordinary examples of the impeccable craftsmanship and uncompromising quality of Valérie Messika and the free, bohemian spirit of her muse Kate Moss.
THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE
Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.
The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.
Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist
The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.
The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.
Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.
In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.
The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.
The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.
THERE IS NO END TO EXUBERANT SURPRISES CREATED BY THE 128 YEAR-OLD JEWELRY HOUSE
Hemmerle’s earrings in spectacular yellow sapphires, zircons, diamonds and bronze bring sunshine back to a world which occasionally lacks certainty, warmth and stability.
The solid shapes, the substantial weight of precious stones, the strong and magnetic yellow hues surrounded by tiny spikes, act as a metaphor for the magnificent celestial body, breathing out its rays of burning-hot energy, or an exotic, temperamental plant, threatening to prick you if you are not sufficiently cautious: look but do not touch!
With this unique creation, Hemmerle, a fourth-generation jewelry house founded in 1893, once again demonstrates dedication to exceptional craftsmanship, unrivalled quality and combinations of innovative materials.
A burst of vivacious and expressive energy for cloudy and sunny days alike. Look, touch, experience and enjoy!
CARTIER REKINDLES THE MAISON’S ALL-TIME FAVORITE, GRACEFUL PREDATOR
In smooth yellow or pink gold with onyx and tsavorite garnets, or with white diamond pavé, onyx and emerald as the magnificent beast’s nose and eyes, these new panther bracelets by Cartier draw on the history of the renowned French jewelry and watch house’s legendary emblem.
Debuting back in 1914 in the form of a wristwatch, the panther became an enduring symbol in the bestiary of the Maison, and has not stopped evolving ever since.
“La Panthère” was the nickname of Parisian style icon Jeanne Toussaint, lover and muse to Louis Cartier and Artistic Director of High Jewelry at the Maison from 1933 to 1970. At that time, a woman holding such a high position was mind-blowing. Known for her ferocious and opinionated temperament, intelligence, extreme femininity and elegance, Jeanne Toussaint was the human embodiment of the strong-willed, svelte animal.
The Cartier panther of today acquires the shape of a curved, flexible gold bangle, remarkable for its clean and supple design, where pure, flowing shapes find perfect balance with modern luxury.
A playful and dangerous animal to elegantly purr on your wrist.
TEARY EYES, SCULLS, BONES AND FLOWERS IN A COLLECTION OF MODERN AND ECLECTIC JEWELRY
Bocca Della Verità Necklace, Sad Sagittarius Earrings, Blue Sorrow Bracelet – the names of these pieces by Samuel François, a Paris-based fashion director of the international fashion magazine Numéro, who has recently presented his very own jewelry collection – speak for themselves.
They sound ominous, melancholic, even sinister. But don’t let them deceive you into thinking that this collection is dark and sad. It is anything but!
Stylistically somewhat reminiscent of Codognato – one the most influential Venetian artists in the history of modern jewelry – it strikes the eye as fresh and individual, with a feminine, light and surrealist twist. Most of these bold pieces are implemented in gold-plated brass and enamel. Each piece is handmade, hence absolutely unique and one-of-a-kind.
A self-taught jewelry designer, Samuel sculpts from wax the models for his pieces, and then works closely with the jewelers who cast them in metal and then enamel them. Today, when skulls, skeletons and other macabre images on t-shirts, shoes and dresses are no longer considered taboo, these visual metaphors for the fragility and transience of life find new meaning in his extravagant and lavish, esoteric and surrealistic creations, spiced up with a dose of zesty humor.
The collection was inspired by Naples, renown for the cult of devotion to skulls which were believed to grant people’s wishes, and – as Samuel points out – by a very particular spot in the city: a bohemian, chic, little hotel, the Albergo del Purgatorio, which looks and feels like a boutique art gallery. I
n Samuel’s vision, eerie motives are rendered in bright, cheerful colors, balancing jolly eclecticism with refined kitschiness and a bit of magic.
The collection is now available for admiration and purchase at Moda Operandi.
MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD
They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.
Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.
A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.
Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.
In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.
Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.
Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.
Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.
Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!
Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.
DO YOU LIKE PEARLS? OR DO YOU THINK THEY ARE OLD-SCHOOL? DON’T JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS BEFORE YOU HAVE SEEN THESE PIECES
In an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Mizuki Goltz remarked that pearls have a sensuousness that can balance a sometimes-cold modernism.
Spring, summer, winter or autumn, these glowing spheres radiate soft, iridescent light, which brightens your face without stealing the spotlight but rather directing it towards the wearer’s eyes, cheekbones, neckline and dainty wrists.
The Tokyo-born New York jewelry designer Mizuki Goltz, winner of multiple awards including Town and Country’s 2017 Pearls of The Year, Pearl Design award at Centurion, and Pearl Design award at the Couture show in Las Vegas, employs her impressive cultural background, along with the knowledge and skills acquired through her studies of sculpture at the New York School of Visual Arts, to create elegant and modern pearl jewelry.
Mizuki jewelry is unique in its lightweight and contemporary aura, with a touch of nonchalant, flirtatious sensuousness. These pieces know no limits. They can be worn anywhere and on any occasion, and will never look excessive or heavy. An absolute win-win for both passionate pearl aficionados and cautious pearl sceptics!
Pearl Kansanshi Bar Earrings by Mizuki can be worn as a single earring or mixed with your favorite studs, ear cuffs or ear crawlers to create balanced and asymmetric, feminine and flirtatiously tomboyish combinations and to power up your creativity and imagination.
Refined and delicate, these pearl and gold bars will organically complement your image and draw pure and subtle light to your face.
Take a look at new Mizuki pearls on Moda Operandi!
GEMS COME TO LIFE IN THE DESIGNS OF AN INTUITIVE STONE ARTIST, IMPASSIONED BY THEIR SECRETS
A wizardess speaking to the stones and looking deep into their ancient mysteries.
A proud Russian beauty, with her piercing gaze and magnificent cascade of long, blond hair.
Anna White was born with a desire to create. As a child, she was always busy building and constructing, inventing and experimenting. She was born at that time in Russia when consumer culture was not yet a thing, you could not simply stop by the shop and find whatever your soul desired. Consequently (or genetically), she took her creative spirit from her father who was a master of invention, always coming up with genius ideas, little, daily masterpieces, derived from thin air.
Later in life, when Anna started buying and receiving gems as gifts, her search for an outlet for her creativity brought Anna to the realm of jewelry, where she found a way to live, breath, materialize and nurture her artistic offspring.
The way Anna works with stones is uncanny. Her instinct towards choosing the right stone is primal and profound: not only does she see, she also senses them. As I was listening to the tone of her voice, watching her facial expressions, it occurred to me that it is not mere admiration for stones as crude material for her creations, it is a fundamental understanding and respect towards them!
Empowering precious and semiprecious gems through her designs, she endows them with a frame of oxidized silver or gold. It’s a peculiar environment for the stones, and for people to comprehend and to wear them. The patina, created through oxidation (a kind of accelerated version of the natural tarnishing process), gives the metal an intentionally darkened, aged look. Thus, excessive luster, characteristic of polished metals, does not interfere with the natural beauty of the stones.
Anna’s approach to jewelry design is not overwhelmed by design itself. For her, the art of jewelry is an instrument for bringing the stones into our world. It is intriguing and refreshing how she does not obsess over big or extravagant gems, but rather contemplates and exposes the character of each stone, its magnetism, the secret microcosm and the ancient myths behind its facets.
In their powerful and beautiful relationship, Anna and the stones act as each other’s integral parts and harmonious continuation.
The enigmatic, primeval minerals come alive in the hands of this miracle worker, with her eagle eye for the beauty and her ear for the fairy tales told by each and every carefully selected and cherished gemstone.
They will talk to you too, snugly settled on your ears and neck, wrists and fingers.
SEVENTY MARVELOUS JEWELS TELL THE STORY OF THE ITALIAN WONDER IN THE LANGUAGE OF PRECIOUS METALS AND STONES
Travelling the world through books – a romantic, affordable and eye-opening childhood experience for most of us.
For Coco Chanel, books were more than just entertainment: they fuelled her imagination, giving her travel and education without leaving her room, allowing Chanel to discover countries, cultures and arts, which later influenced her legendary creations.
In January 2016, Venice even hosted an exhibition “La Donna Che Legge” (“The Woman Who Reads”), a glimpse into Coco Chanel’s literary tastes, friendships and her relationships with books, writers, poets, artists and musicians.
Back in the 1970s, Roland Barthes, the French literary critic, wrote in an article for Marie Claire magazine: “If you were to open a text about the history of literature today, you would find in it the name of a new classic author: Coco Chanel. Chanel does not write using paper and ink (except as a pastime), but with fabric, forms, colors.”
Chanel will always be Chanel.
At the beginning of this year, the iconic fashion house presented a new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” (translated as “Stopover in Venice”): 70 pieces, of which 22 are one-of-a-kind, four brooches in a limited edition of five, as well as five high jewelry watches.
The collection takes you to the engineering marvel of the world, the city of masks, bridges, romance and Murano glass, and submerges you in the colors, architecture and atmosphere of this extraordinary place – and Coco Chanel’s greatly loved destination – even if you have not yet had the good fortune to see it in person.
Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, invites you to travel to this unique location not, this time, through the pages of books but through the facets of gemstones; to experience its indescribable grandeur through the colors of intricate enamel, layers of precious metals, the flight of imagination and the remarkable skills of Chanel’s jewelers.
Symbolic depictions of blue-and-white mooring poles, ribboned boater hats, baroque lions from the facade of Saint Mark’s Basilica – the guardians and the spirit animals of Venice – the deep blue of the its starry skies, the tesserae of Byzantine architecture, scattered throughout the city… It takes an eminent mastermind to collect all the pieces of this mosaic and arrange them into an unparalleled object of jewelry art while staying true to the spirit of the city and to Chanel, firing people’s imagination without spiraling into clutter and chaos. It takes Patrice Leguéreau to do that.
“Escale à Venise” is a collection with many faces, offering a contemporary interpretation of the different emblems of the Floating City. It consists of four parts: Sérénissime, Gran Canale, Isole della Laguna, and Spirito de Venezia.
Sérénissime is the traditional name of the Republic of Venice or, in Venetian, Serenìsima Repùblega Vèneta – a sovereign state and maritime republic, which existed from 697 to 1797. It offers an intriguing interpretation of Venetian architecture: the facades of its palaces, the multicolored marble floors and mosaics of its churches, rendered in paragon, geometric lines, baguette-cut and round diamonds, warmed by the soft hues of Padparadascha and mandarin sapphires and rose gold.
Gran Canale was inspired by the Venetian waterways: the big and small canals, brightly spotted with gondoliers’ hats, reimagined as whimsical cocktail rings, with ribbons set in red and black enamel and diamond pavé, as well as the blue-and-white mooring poles, dreamed up in the blue enamel and diamond pavé of earrings, necklaces and bangles.
Isole della Laguna plays with the theme of camellia, Coco Chanel’s best-loved flower. Inspired by Venetian Murano glass, this iconic blossom is given new meaning and structure in rock crystal, hand-carved into the shape of the classic Chanel camellia, punctuated with diamonds and set in yellow gold.
Spirito de Venezia contemplates the image of the lion – Coco Chanel’s astrological sign and her favorite talisman – and the blue-and-gold starry scene on the rooftop of Saint Mark’s Basilica. The winged lion on the Basilica is guarding the Bible on Chanel’s one-of-a-kind ring – an impressive pear-shaped diamond.
High jewelry by Chanel is almost impossible to put into words. Beautiful? Beyond compare. Stunning? Absolutely. One-of-a-kind? Without question.
Their new high jewelry collection “Escale à Venise” captures the heart and soul, colors and shapes, air and mood of the city and translates them so precisely into the language of beauty and art that even a person who has never been there can say: This is Venice!
Let the “Escale à Venise” jewels speak for themselves. Give in to their charm. Listen to their story…
 “Si vous ouvriez aujourd’hui une histoire de notre littérature, vous devriez y trouver le nom d’un nouvel auteur classique: Coco Chanel. Chanel n’écrit pas avec du papier et de l’encre (sauf à ses moments perdus) mais avec de l’étoffe, des formes et des couleurs […].” (source: Identités visuelles (Formes sémiotiques) by Jean-Marie Floch).