BEAUTIFUL FANTASY OF DIOR ET MOI: EVERY (ST)ONE IS IMPORTANT

‘Dior et moi’: Me that is not the same anymore, Me that is free in spirit and decisions, Me that creates and sees the world differently.
For one gorgeous moment, imagine a world where every stone, given the right context and design, can shine like NO OTHER, where the hallmark is not price or prestige, but beauty combined in a perfect work of art.
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Illustration by INKYCUBANS

‘A combination of the incompatible’, a phrase overheard at the presentation of the new Dior et Moi high jewelry collection in Paris at the end of January.

Even if not the bullseye definition of this collection, it nonetheless lingered in the air, illuminated by soft magenta and hushed blue lights, for it cut to the core of the bold and glorious, exuberant and sublime style of Dior’s Creative Director of Fine Jewelry, Victoire de Castellane, looking into the heart of beauty without bias or prejudice.

A beauty that couldn’t care less: is this (st)one precious enough? Indeed, one of the most prominent pieces in the collection is an opal necklace in yellow and white gold, diamonds, pearls, garnets, sapphires, peridots, emeralds and lacquer: with a semiprecious, not precious, stone as a centerpiece.

Originally, the ‘Toi et Moi’ (‘You & Me’) jewelry format referred to rings with two gems sitting side by side, a romantic symbol of two hearts becoming one. Characteristic of the Belle Époque, this form was popularized through the engagement rings of Napoleon Bonaparte and Josephine de Beauharnais, John F Kennedy and Jacqueline Onassis. Yet today, in a world where all borders are shifting—in the royal realms and in the mainstream, at the social level and in art—this juxtaposition is no longer relevant.

‘Dior et moi’: Me that is not the same anymore, Me that is free in spirit and decisions, Me that creates and sees the world differently.
Diamonds, emeralds and sapphires are set in perfect balance with tourmalines, rubellites, opals, garnets and peridots, previously considered less precious or important. The new generation has a different vision, and a new era in jewelry is following their path and experiences.

Playful and colorful jewels, full of asymmetrical details, a mix of stones of different caliber. “It’s an homage to Art Deco, but in 2020. Like little pieces of sci-fi architecture,” says Victoire de Castellane in an interview for Vogue.

Between-finger rings, asymmetric earrings, bangles and necklaces, lacquer—pioneered and exalted in the 2006 Diorette collection, which is still Victoire’s signature,—in fifteen bright hues inspired by Marie Antoinette, subtle geometric shapes, a creative genius of design and virtuosity of implementation: the thirty-nine pieces of the Dior et Moi collection are all about the joyful polyphony of these fresh outlooks and interpretations in jewelry.

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WHEN BEAUTY IS THE QUESTION, BOUCHERON IS THE ANSWER

BOUCHERON’S QUESTION MARK NECKLACES: TIMELESS CLASSICS OF THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.
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In January 2020, at the biannual Paris haute couture jewelry show, Boucheron presented its new high jewelry collection: iconic claspless ‘Point d’Interrogation’ (‘question mark’) necklaces—signature pieces of the jewelry house, an everlasting tribute to beauty and science, emotion and innovation going hand in hand.
The genius and exquisite invention of the Maison makes it possible to put the necklace on with one smooth move, without assistance and without fear of breaking this extremely complex, yet pliable masterpiece.
So what’s the big deal, you will ask.
Actually, the deal was really big back in 1879, when Boucheron designed the first Question Mark necklace. At a time when Western women’s fashion was still fundamentally reigned by corsets, rigidly structured bustles, ultra-restrictive, heavy, long skirts, profuse decoration, extremely tight sleeves, and tall, fitted, boned collars—all ingredients for zero convenience—this innovative mechanism was revolutionary, giving women, apart from the obvious beauty of the necklace, a long-sought feeling of independence, freedom and power.
Today, the creative director of Boucheron, Claire Choisne, along with her ingenious team, reminded the world of this creation with the presentation of eight new Question Mark necklaces: pieces so uniquely engineered that the golden leaves of the Lierre de Paris necklace, each set with dozens of emeralds, move and ripple in the unperceivable wind, activated by a secret switch. Or look at the Nuage de Fleurs necklace: before crafting the pure, delicate mother-of-pearl and diamond flowers, each petal of hydrangea was 3D-scanned to achieve the maximum level of detail. The astounding and uncanny level of realism that leaves you wondering how is it even possible?!
The patterns borrowed from nature, leaves, flowers, petals, Art deco-style natural pearls, a peacock’s feather have been carefully studied and reproduced in precious metals and stones. The idea, the design, the implementation, the history behind the piece, even the way it laconically captures the natural body shapes and gives a subtle yet sublime focus to the chest. In modern times, when women are free to dress however they like, this asymmetrical, light, graceful Question Mark necklace remains Boucheron’s answer to the timeless question of beauty, femininity and freedom of self-expression.

CATCH OF THE DAY

February28Jewelry Now
LITO JEWELRY: WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING AT?!
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Symbolic, hypnotizing or simply eye-catching. This is not just another necklace. This is a viewpoint, a vision, an attitude.
A fresh look at a traditional artefact by a new creative mind in the world of jewelry. In Lito Karakostanoglou’s interpretation, a popular amulet—meant to protect wearers against the evil eye—acquires gentler, friendlier and more elegant, feminine lines.
This gorgeous golden eye will be watching the world with you and, so distinctive and arresting, it will make the world stop—to look at you.
And for the cherry on top, you can even pick the color! Choose blue, green, purple, yellow or rainbow, rimmed with laconic golden eyelashes or surrounded by diamonds, sapphires and rubies.

What amazing eye candy! What a catch!

THE GOLD OF THE GLOBES: STATEMENT NECKLACES AND STUD EARRINGS

January09Jewelry Now
THE RED CARPET OF THE GOLDEN GLOBES: THE SCENE AND THE SPOTLIGHT FOR THE DAZZLING PEOPLE, FLAWLESS AND CONTROVERSIAL, SECRETLY ADORED AND OVERTLY CRITICIZED BY MANY. BEAUTIFUL BECAUSE OR DESPITE. WEARING DESIGNER MASTERPIECES AND SETTING TRENDS FOR THE COMING YEAR.
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From the very beginning of its history, jewelry has showcased status. Produced from rare or difficult-to-mine materials, requiring time-consuming, intricate—to the point of being hazardous—techniques, fine jewelry has always been the trademark of importance, position in the hierarchy.
The pharaohs and queens of Ancient Egypt adored themselves with exquisite jewels made from precious metals, gems and colored glass, while commoners wore jewelry made from rocks, clay, animal teeth and shells. Today the spectrum of materials has broadened immensely and can include all of the above in one piece. Yet, gold and diamonds, sapphires and pearls retain their unshakeable position in the representation of beauty.

Fine, luxurious jewelry is meant to be noticed, even when it comes in the shape and size of tiny, minimalist diamond or pearl stud earrings. Let alone the shiny, filigree, classic and modern, subtle and chunky statement necklaces, screaming for attention: Look at me! Notice me!
Statement necklaces of all sorts, from classical beauty to chunkier modern pieces, and stud earrings of all shapes and colors, from simple diamond drops to complex ornaments, was a palpable trend at the Golden Globes 2020.
No wonder.

Statement necklaces are the ornate, sophisticated frames, drawing attention to the neck, face, hair of the wearer. Stud earrings, no matter if diamond, pearl or metal, will serve forever and work with everything—an easy and painless solution for any occasion.
Look at her, notice her! A gorgeous woman floats through a stunned crowd, making all heads turn. A wealth of little pearl drops shining in her ears, bringing immense, clean light to her face.

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Boardroom Fairy Tales: The Return of the Tiara

DON’T MISS THE LAST WEEK TO SEE THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXHIBITION “CHAUMET IN MAJESTI” AT THE GRIMALDI FORUM OF MONACO UNTILL THE 28TH OF AUGUST!!!

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You may only associate tiaras with princesses and fairy tales, but they’re making a comeback. We suspect it’s a conflation of the global elite’s creative play coupled with newly reinvigorated female empowerment, but tiaras have found their way into the jewelry cabinets and even boardrooms (!) around the world.

Regardless their use (the boardroom example is real – one Chinese businesswoman is said to occasionally don a tiara during special business gatherings), tiaras are always a statement, an exclamation point – and a distinctly feminine one at that.

One jewelry house notably has tiaras on lock: Chaumet has made tiaras for over 200 years, with their oldest example dating to 1811.Chaumet was commissioned to create a tiara for Empress Josephine in the late 19th century and has over 3,000 tiaras in its archive; they continue to produce a limited number every year, may of which are special orders for powerful women looking for something special. In a world seeking differentiation and distinction, the elegant tiara is again taking its place as queenmaker.

THE JEWELRY ICON

Strength of the Sea: Jewels Evoking the Ocean

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WITH THE RICH DIVERSITY OF COLORS AND NATURAL MATERIALS AVAILABLE FOR DESIGNERS AND CREATORS, IT’S NO WONDER THE OCEAN PLAYS SUCH A CENTRAL ROLE IN MANY COLLECTIONS – ESPECIALLY FOR THE SUMMER. HERE YOU’LL FIND SOME OF OUR FAVORITES.

The strength and enigma of the ocean have been my main sources of inspiration for several weeks now. Watching waves through my window has been my primary landscape, and seeing such power and variation paired with such stillness and repetition has me in something of a trance. It’s amazing how something so technical – the translation of wind and tide into such visible, obvious power – can yield such inspiration and beauty.
The gorgeous photography of Andrea Hamilton has proven to be compelling company for this too, her work capturing the ocean’s power and movement so fully that I can feel it.

In line with these meandering summer thoughts, I’ve picked up the most gorgeous drop earrings from Amrapali. The color play of their deeply colored blue-green tanzanite stones is unforgettable.

To pair with some of these pieces check out an awesome great summer dress by Johanna Ortiz, and a few additional fine jewelry pieces, including Amrapali, Wendy Yue, Lizzie Fortunato, Yi Collection, Matteo x Muzo.

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David Morris : [The London Jeweler]

THE NAME DAVID MORRIS IS SYNONYMOUS WITH HIGH BRITISH JEWELRY, THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE GEMSTONES AND SUBTILE TASTE

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Leading ladies have dazzled wearing his designs in no less than 14 James Bond movies. And the British luxury jeweller that is David Morris continues to attract celebrity clients in scores. Oh, and get commissions from royal families: a David Morris creation was seen on the bonnet of the vintage Aston Martin car chosen by the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge for their wedding day.

What is it about this London designer whose creations form part of the permanent exhibition of the Jewellery Room at the V&A. What is distinctive about this London brand, with its workshop on Bond Street, that has made it a destination for dealers in big coloured gems the world over?

I think it’s what is best described as the jewelry’s softness. Although there aren’t many men with golden guns milling around, there are plenty of James Bond girls in the world! And David’s jewelry is perfect for them: the spirit and soul of Bond style with constantly original takes on the genre.

These are some of my favourite David Morris pieces, all of which can be purchased online. Hakan Arblom’s illustrations showcase them beautifully.

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Christie’s Important Jewels Auction June 12, 2019

#DONTMISS the Auction is today!

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SALE OVERVIEW: Christies Important Jewels Auction
The London Important Jewels sale on 12 June features a beautiful array of period and modern pieces ranging from £1,000 to £350,000. The auction also features fine coloured gems and diamonds, Art Déco jewels and a grouping of modern creations from the foremost jewellery maisons including Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, Lacloche, Schlumberger, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others.
I’m wearing Art Deco Diamond Earrings, Chanel Diamond ‘Camelia’ ring, elegant George III diamond ear pendants.

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Offer an olive branch

Luz Camino’s beautiful brooch is a timely reminder of how important it is to conserve the olive tree

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The health properties of olive oil’s unique molecule oleuropein are staggering. It can lower blood pressure and cholesterol, help guard against cognitive decline and even prevent cancer. But the beautiful tree whence it all comes, a tree long associated with wisdom, its branches a symbol of peace, can’t cope with the changing climate and rain fall brought by global warming. Its green fruit are literally withering on the vine.
This cool brooch, crafted in silver, enamel and olive tree wood, and designed to resemble an actual olive branch, is a beautiful and salutary wake-up call. It is so important to conserve this ancient tree that has been considered sacred since ancient times.

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