SUMMON THE JOYOUS GENIE: COLLECTION N°5 FROM CHANEL

YOU CANNOT KEEP LOCKED IN A BOTTLE THE BUBBLING JOY AND BEAUTY: EARRINGS FROM THE NEW CHANEL COLLECTION ARE PROOF.

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As I fiddle with the perfectly shaped bottle of Chanel N°5, touching its smooth glass filled with delicious scent, I am thinking: what if, by rubbing this vessel of fragrant charm, I could summon a genie?

What would I wish each and every one of you for 2022?

The Golden Stopper Earrings from Chanel’s new high jewelry Collection N°5 – the recognizable cork and bubbly burst of magnetism – are a concoction of enthusiasm, refinement and delight.

One earring, to open the bottle, is geometric and straightforward, a chiseled stopper reflecting the architecture and proportions of Place Vendôme, admired by Coco Chanel from the balcony of her room at the Ritz. The other – a vivacious splash of precious stones, a rapid movement – like droplets from a bottle of New Year champagne.

A hundred and twenty-three pieces within Chanel’s new Collection N°5 have been designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary perfume. Since 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman”, created by Gabrielle Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, has been a staple of sophistication and confidence, a potent elixir of sensuality and femininity, and, without doubt, the most famous perfume in the world.

Coco Chanel is believed to have said: “I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.”

Watching bubbles of champagne escape from the bottle on New Year’s night, I wish each and every one of you good health, warm evenings with your loved ones, cheerful mornings sparkling with ambition for discoveries and creation, and all the beauty that the world can give.

Thank you for another year with the Jewelry Icon!

Illustration by INCYCUBANS

IN BLOOM AND IN FADING: BEAUTY IS EVERYWHERE BY LUZ CAMINO

PIECES FOR A PERSONALITY THAT SHINE AND COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER

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Illustration  by Chris Gambrell

Als men waarachtig van de natuur houdt dan vindt men ’t overal mooi.   

If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere.  

Vincent van Gogh in a letter to his brother Theo  

An artist’s creation is the child of that artist. This is true for the cult Spanish jewelry designer Luz Camino – an indisputable authority on botanical representations in jewelry and on rendering mundane, common and unexpected objects with a new, sublime perspective.  

In Spanish, “luz” means “light”. Even last year, in the epicenter of the pandemic, Luz Camino – an amazing artist and a radiant, warm and sophisticated person – managed to find peace and beauty amidst the uncertainty, and to continue with her creative ventures.  

Today, Luz continues to shine that light onto everything she picks up, turning each item into a miniature, dreamy piece of art.  

From exquisite, expensive stones and precious metals to tin cans, Luz competently uses any materials and artefacts that she sees fit for her purposes. Through innovative techniques, experiments and a powerful imagination, she takes her jeweler’s skills to extremes and elevates ordinary objects far above the monotony of humdrum days.  

To see charm in a wilting flower requires a unique type of personality, but to be able to capture its evanescent beauty in a piece of wearable art is an entirely different level of finesse. Luz Camino is capable of it all: the subdued palette of the Wilted Hydrangea Earrings, in plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds, silver and gold, is a perfect match for every skin tone, accentuating the peculiar beauty of a human ear and serving as its refined and natural extension.  

In the large, statement Freesia Brooch, enamel, agate, silver and gold meet snow-white, delicate porcelain. Feminine, fragile and bold, this sweetly fragrant flower can act as the dramatic and quirky centerpiece for a severe business suit or as the effortless and essential companion to a feather-light silk scarf.  

Like little children in a kindergarten, every single piece within the new collection is unique: with a strong and delicate, enchanting and challenging personality as well as a deep, yet-to-be-discovered world behind shiny eyes, each waiting to blossom in the cherishing light of the right wearer.  

Most creations come in a limited edition; some, like the Dragonfly, Falcon Hunting Hood, Alpine Soldanella and Blackberry brooches, are one-of-a-kind. So, don’t wait too long!   For more information on the new Luz Camino’s collection and the trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman, visit www.luzcamino.com/bergdorf and enjoy the wonderful views.  

GREEN IS FOR HEALTH. GREEN IS FOR BEAUTY. GREEN BY NAK ARMSTRONG

VIVACIOUS, FRESH AND ENERGIZING: ELECTRIC GREEN EARRINGS TO ELEVATE SPIRITS AND MAKE A GOOD MOOD EVEN BETTER

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Want to enjoy art, design and nature – all the beautiful things – for the long-long years of your life? Then you need more green!

Amazing scenery, objects of art and jewelry, all desire to be seen with your eyes. But have you heard the great news? Higher intake of green, leafy vegetables is associated with a lower risk of glaucoma, which is a leading cause of blindness?!

Some researchers in neurology, psychology and ophthalmology believe that the color green possesses a sedative effect: sensitivity to green objects might affect our hormonal production, which, in turn, influences our mood and calms us down.

Hail to the green!

Green is the universal color of nature, leaves, meadows, oxygen-producing algae and life, recognizable to any person from any country and any cultural background. Nak Armstrong offers fans of his jewelry many variations of this luscious, upbeat, electric green: Anemone Earrings in emerald, Ethiopian opal and diamonds; Parrot Earrings featuring acid-green tourmaline half-moons, emerald pavé, tourmaline triangles, tanzanite trillions and large Ethiopian opal drops; and Mini Pendulum Earrings, from the jewelry house’s Florapiega collection.

Nak finds inspiration in nature which he reinterprets, deconstructs and reconstructs in pieces of modern jewelry art. He also explores, invents and perfects his own metalworking and stone-setting techniques to challenge and change the way the gems and metals interact, modify and redefine each other.

In his creations, Nak delivers a perfect balance between jewelry impressionism and cubism: small, delicate brush strokes, alongside abstracted and fragmented depictions of flowers, birds and leaves.

The ideal perfume to go with this lush greenery of precious stones and elaborate designs is a new, unisex fragrance from Frederic Malle: Synthetic Jungle by Anne Flipo, a modern, bright, delicious and provocative take on nature, with top notes of basil, galbanum and black currant, middle notes of lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang and almond, and base notes of patchouli and oak moss.

Eat more greens, take care of both your eyes and mind, and enjoy the invigorating view of bright green jewelry by Nak Armstrong!

REDEFINING JEWELRY WITH NOMIS

A HIGH JEWELRY BRAND PUSHES BOUNDARIES AND INVITES US ALL TO EXPERIMENT

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Contemporary jewelry has no rules and no limits: it stands for the freedom of adornment and facilitates the metamorphosis of beauty into a powerful statement.

The Nomis brand, created by Alena Kiperman, aims to provide the most luxurious of tools to capture your emotions and transform them into elegant, sincere, offbeat and avant-garde manifests.

Rings which can be turned into earcuffs, distinctive earovals (yes, it is a thing!) and earclips, tribal and punkish earpins which in the blink of an eye become pendants, unisex necklaces can be worn separately as statement pieces, or mixed together in phantasmagoric, luxurious and provocative combinations.

Nomis jewelry is made in 18ct gold and lab-grown stones. Due to their unique qualities, man-made diamonds, emeralds and sapphires have long been used outside the jewelry industry, including high tech, bringing the future closer to us.

The jewelry of the future must keep up with the times.

Nomis has been created for people with a heightened sense of freedom. Cool and edgy, emphatic and elegant, this mind-blowing, experimental and multifunctional jewelry is easy to wear, fits any style and and any time of the day.

Experiment and express yourself, create your own fantasy and reality with the Nomis jewelry!

STORIES OF THE NIGHT SKY IN THE NEW ZODIAQUE COLLECTION BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

THE CLASSIC LUXURY JEWELRY HOUSE RETURNS TO ITS CLASSIC MOTIFS: SO, WHAT’S NEW?

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Art by Lolita Pelegrime

Fallen stars return to us in solid, strong, bold shapes and refined designs, merging into intricately sculptured golden bas-reliefs.

This new interpretation of the Zodiac by Van Cleef & Arpels evolved from the Zodiaque medals created in the 1970s, in the tradition of Poetic Astronomy, their signature theme.

Scattered across the vast expanse of space, from the surface of our planet stars appear as two-dimensional constellations, connecting them as if they were stories, shared by cultures across centuries and continents.

Wearing a Zodiac sign no longer requires unconditional commitment to its meaning. With such an old and elaborate system, Zodiacs have become more than the brief horoscopes that appear on the back page of a popular tabloid. They carry as much meaning as you choose to ascribe to them: the moment of your birth, the time you spend on earth, how you see yourself and other people, and how you deal with your differences and relationships.

In this new collection, the celestial signs, born in Western astrology, are represented in two versions: two sets of spectacular golden pendant necklaces, with and without symbolic stones. The medals, hanging on long, golden chains, depict the respective Zodiac signs on the front side, with dates on the reverse.

In one version, the stylized Zodiac animals are shaped against ornamental stones. Blue quartz, earthly brown pietersite, stripped tiger iron, bluish green amazonite, dark obsidian, bright green aventurine, dark green malachite, bright blue turquoise and deep blue lapis lazuli: the jewelers and designers of Van Cleef & Arpels did a great job researching the qualities of these curious gems, the way they interplay with the golden symbols and their meanings.

Тhe energy of the four elements of the Zodiac – fire, air, earth, and water – shows through the selection of unconventional stones: blue for water signs (Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces), green(ish) for earth (Taurus, Virgo, and Capricorn), the deep hues of the night sky for Air (Gemini, Libra, and Aquarius), and dramatic ochre and bronze, evoking flames and lava, for fire (Aries, Leo, and Sagittarius).

A more conservative, forever classic version of the Zodiac comes in twelve massive medals in polished yellow gold: to be passed from generation to generation whether as a talisman, a lucky charm or an inspiring piece of family heritage, whispering to the heirs a poetic story about the style, character and life of its original wearer.

FOR BOHEMIANS, DREAMERS, MODERATE SCEPTICS AND PASSIONATE BELIEVERS: ASHEVILLE BY DAVID WEBB

November09Jewelry in Art

NEW FLORAL COLLECTION IN GOLD, ENAMEL AND MOUTH-WATERING, COLORFUL GEMS

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In a small city on the scenic American East Coast – spiced up by fun murals, hipster coffee shops, the vibrant River Arts District where former factory buildings became home to artists’ studios and the Downtown Art District, populated with galleries and museums – a legend was born.

Asheville, nicknamed the “Paris of the South”, is a charming oasis of chill bohemian vibe and artistic coziness. Back in the 1980s, residents fought hard to keep its atmosphere as an artisan city, with unique style and architecture, small local stores and restaurants, in opposition to building a large shopping mall which would have required demolishing an authentic area of 11-blocks.

This eclectic city also happens to be the hometown of David Webb – a prominent American jeweler and founder of an eponymous luxury jewelry house – where he started his education in jewelry-making and grew fond of lavish, blooming gardens.

New fine jewelry collection named after Asheville: eight exceptional floral pieces (pendant necklace, drop earrings, cuff bracelets, choker, and an open-band ring), designed in two distinctive palettes – fresh, pink opals with rubies, emerald beads, turquoise and diamonds, and serene, blue chalcedony with sapphires, turquoise and diamonds. The distinctive 18-karat gold chains and white enamel, present in both colorways, make it easy to combine the jewels and weld them together.

It is tempting to search Asheville’s gardens and Blue Ridge Mountains for the wildflowers which have inspired David Webb’s designers. There, you can find rhododendrons, flame azaleas, mountain laurels, and Turk’s cap lilies. Curiously, the house says that the new collection’s floral motif has no direct analog in nature but, rather, is an archetypical, stylized flower, easily recognized across continents, epochs and cultures.

The jewelry house’s co-owner and creative director Mark Emanuel acknowledges that now is the right time to come back to “flower power”, with its intrinsic ideas of invigorating beauty, peace and optimism.

A gulp of fresh air, spring in the midst of winter’s approach, the delicate, light pink and pale blue flowers are supported by unique, weighty and supple chains – a combination of strength, dreaminess and femininity, marked with characteristic design elements: bold colors, lively enamel and carved hardstones.

So, here it is: the new Ashville collection by David Webb, a quintessence of light, charm and hope.

A MODERN TAKE ON OLD TRADITION: ANCIENT EGYPT BY SILVIA FURMANOVICH

THE LATEST HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION ‘EGYPT’ BY AN INIMITABLE BRAZILIAN DESIGNER IS AT THE ABSOLUTE INTERSECTION OF OLD AND NEW

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To take something as ancient and profound as the history and artefacts of the millennia-old civilization and to present it in new light, suitable and wearable for our modern times, is not a task for the faint of heart.

This time, Silvia Furmanovich – a São Paulo designer who travels the world over in search of inspiration and unique places, diving into local cultures and meeting local craftspeople – drew her creative power from the very cradle of civilization.

In January, Silvia and her son Andrey spent a month exploring Egypt, its history, architecture, ancient monuments and relics, lush landscape, archaeological sites and remote villages, such as the Siwa Oasis – one of Egypt’s most isolated settlements, whose inhabitants have developed an unique desert culture and whose distinctive houses are built from karsheef (blocks of clay and salt).

In the markets of Cairo, she asked stone carvers to sculpt jewels from locally sourced gemstones: lapis lazuli, turquoise and jasper, envisaging their mesmerizing splendor in her future collection. In Luxor, which is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, she commissioned artisans to paint miniatures on stones, which were later set in the earrings.

Egypt has been an inspiration for jewelry artists for eons, and it remains their muse today.  “The meaning of jewelry was so important to ancient Egyptians; it was powerful, it was protection, and it was buried with them.”, said Silvia to Town & Country magazine. And she felt compelled to tell its story.

Up to the present day, Silvia Furmanovich, born in Brazil to a line of Italian goldsmiths, has been mastering, developing and searching for techniques and materials new and old, and this jewelry collection is the culmination of many years’ work and research.

Silvia creates her one-of-a-kind pieces through the alchemic combinations of daring designs, a passion for ancient, traditional and innovative craftsmanship, styles and materials, and her original interpretations of cultures. This year, she took the time and creative energy she needed to find, deconstruct and reconstruct the rich and mysterious ancient art, symbols, materials and meanings – and present them in a fresh light in her new Egyptian collection, a rich range of pieces: each uniquely different, all unparalleled, but, through Silvia’s creative genius, still part of one amazing artistic family.

A series of earrings within the collection have been inspired by the capitals of Egyptian columns, such as these Lotus Earrings in gold, diamonds and marquetry, which resemble the sacred lotus flower that blooms on many parts of Egyptian architecture. These pieces will appeal especially to strong, artistic personalities with an eye for timeless beauty.

TAKE IT SLOW AND SAVOR THE MOMENT WITH THE LEAVES COLLECTION BY CHARLOTTE LYNGGAARD

NATURE IS PERFECT, AS ARE CHARLOTTE’S METICULOUSLY CRAFTED CREATIONS

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Tiny crystals of the first October frost spread over rustling golden leaves and glimmer in the bright morning sun.  

Fresh, cool and zingy, the diamond-encrusted statement Leaves Earrings, Bracelet and Ring by Danish jewelry house Ole Lynggaard reveal the sculptural and naturalistic beauty of autumn’s elegant foliage.  

Ole Lynggaard is run by a creative and loving family who make sure that the brand’s values are always reflected in their designs. Solid branding, a delicate approach to detail, the highest standards of craftsmanship, appreciation of quality and the deeper meaning of both art and jewelry are passed from generation to generation: the people of this jewelry house stand by their brand and by their creations.  

Twelve years ago, Charlotte Lynggaard, Lead Designer and Creative Director of the house, created a tiara adorned with leaves and berries, reimagined in oxidized silver, white gold and diamonds. It was the beginning of the Leaves Collection with diamonds, set individually in the gold and silver leaves, ascending from small to big, and then back to small again, all the way around the rings, bangles and earrings: like dainty, ethereal crystals of frost or the trace of an ultralight raindrop.  

The satinized golden surface is processed by hand using an intricate engraving technique, producing an uncanny resemblance to the surface of a natural leaf. A trained goldsmith, Charlotte Lynggaard knows how precious metals respond to processing. More importantly, she knows that perfection takes time: this meticulous engraving takes a lot of work, but it yields fantastic results, responding to her sophisticated ideas and meeting her creative ambitions.  

Nature does not like to hurry: it takes many weeks for a leaf to grow from a tree bud and then mature. In tune with nature, Charlotte Lynggaard confesses that one cannot rush exquisite craftsmanship. 

Her patience and perfectionism are reflected in the meditative curves, texture and nuances of the Leaves Collection in which jewelry, design and nature become one.

ARCHITECTURE, LACE AND JEWELRY IN A DAZZLING EBLOUISSANTE SET BY CHANEL

IT’S ALL THERE: SLENDER, GOTHIC LINES, DELICATE, AIRY LACING AND EXCEPTIONAL PRECIOUS STONES

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Architectural and delicate, modern and ethnic, the Eblouissante set of high jewelry from the Escale à Venise collection by Chanel is everything you would have expected from the legendary luxury fashion house – and plenty more.

The combination of pink gold and platinum in tandem with flawless diamonds brings to mind intricate, hand-made embroidery and the gothic architecture of Venice: nuanced lace-like tiles, atmospheric windows and an aura of remarkable lightness, all obtained through the uncontestable artistry of medieval architects, engineers and builders.

The geometrically-set diamond cubes and rectangles are arranged like multiple openings and spaces in the mosaic of Venetian architecture. Frames of rose gold and platinum support refreshing ice-cubes of crystal-clear diamonds as a metaphor for dainty windows, letting fresh air into the twilight of cool, historical buildings. The gemstones are set in a precise, well-measured manner, creating an impression of lightness, lucidity, balanced elegance and refined poshness – qualities characteristic of Chanel from the very beginnings of the house.

The nature of lace has inspired architects to finesse detail, romanticism and mystery, playing with filigree light and energizing shadows in their creations from time immemorial, and continues to do so to this day. Lace-like town halls, churches and cathedrals possess qualities of airiness and tactility, making them more familiar to townies, almost like a second skin.

In the 1930s, Coco Chanel herself underwent a so-called “romantic” period, during which she widely employed lace, tulle and chiffon, accentuating the natural curves of a woman’s body, often using classic black to counterbalance the romantic quality of those materials and turn them into seductive gowns.

In the Escale à Venise collection and especially in the Eblouissante set, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, offers her own contemporary interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of Venice – always one of her favorite destinations.

Translated from the French as ‘dazzling’, the light and sculptural, ethnic and modern Eblouissante set lives up to its name – and way beyond it.

TOURMALINE RING BY TAFFIN: WHERE ART MEETS INTELLECT

September29Jewelry Now

TOURMALINE RING BY TAFFIN: WHERE ART MEETS INTELLECT BRIGHT COLORS AND SMOOTH SHAPES WORKING IN UNISON IN A SMART DESIGN

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The Taffin ring with a green tourmaline surrounded by smooth circles of green chartreuse (the yellow-green hue resembling the color of French chartreuse liqueurs), pale blue, emerald green and bright purple, possesses the seductive appeal of a bizarre candy which you have just unwrapped. Silky and tempting, it hasn’t yet started melting, and invites you to discover the delicious sweetness of its mysterious taste.

Few jewelers know how to look at stones and understand them, and then find just the right frame to make the gems look special or cool, magical or whimsical, mysterious or ultramodern, but Taffin is one of those jewelers.

Their playful and intellectual approach to stones and high jewelry makes these pieces highly artistic and, at the same time, easily wearable. Neither too solid nor too extravagant – exactly the right amount of flirtatious colorfulness with eye-catching shapes that generate designs that are immediately recognizable, avant-garde and unexpected.

Each stone has a character which can be lost when surrounded by the wrong architecture. Employing artistry, logic and intellect, the House of Taffin finds the sweet spot for every gem, making it shine and speak to the eyes and emotions of its beholders.

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