LUSCIOUS TITANIUM GRAPES FOR THE EARS OF A BOLD, MODERN GODDESS
"Creating is an emotional process, so inspiration
can come from whatever touches your soul or
particularly catches your eyes: a color, a texture,
an architectural detail, a painting, a picture, a sunset."
"Fashion and jewelry might seem superficial
in these times, but our job is made of creativity
and passion which are an expression of love,
and love is what all of us want."
The blue and purple earrings by Fabio Salini are a contemporary poem to extraordinary women, inspirational art and mighty technology. Their massive size is counterbalanced by their component material: light and sturdy titanium, used widely in space and marine engineering because of its resistance to corrosion, fatigue and cracking, and tolerance for high temperatures.
Titanium is not the only unconventional material employed by the modernist Roman jeweler and designer. Other-worldly and futuristic, many of his creations feature unusual ingredients: natural objects like horns and eggs, bamboo and straw, non-precious components like rope and leather, industrial elements like copper thread, even carbon fiber – a high-tech, space-age, immensely strong, deep black material that adds a touch of a mystic, deep-space void and impenetrability to his intelligently engineered, ultra-modern and architectural, geometrical and delicate, voluminous and elaborate creations.
Trained in geology and gemology, Fabio Salini worked at the jewelry and watchmaking moguls Cartier and Bulgari where he developed his unique, eclectic, modern and imaginative style which earned him international fame and awards. Starting with his own collection which Salini presented to the world in 1999, he has been using new forms and unusual combinations of materials, looking for inspiration in contemporary art and artistic collaborations, innovating and experimenting to modernize and galvanize the spirit of high jewelry and make it what he believes it is: an expression of art. “If you don’t change the rules, if you don’t dare, you don’t bring anything new into the world,” Fabio Salini explained his philosophy to Vogue.
Disagreeing with the idea that a jewel is inherently a symbol of the wearer’s status, Fabio provides a new outlook on the relation between the monetary value of the jewel’s ingredients and its artistic, personal and emotional worth. In his interview with Vivienne Becker, he stresses that the true preciousness of a jewel has to be discovered, revealed slowly, understood profoundly and most of all cherished by the wearer.
Massive, vivid and dramatic, the titanium semispheres of the blue and purple earrings catch the light and give back extraordinary breams of energy. Like powerful magnets, whose wild temper has been mitigated by their feminine, soft volumes, these deific mini-shields are meant to attract all the glances in the space around them.
Are you the modern goddess – avant-garde, bold and adventurous – ready for a mighty dose of attention? Then these bunches of futuristic grapes are for you! Enjoy their irresistible attraction.
BOUCHERON’S CLASSICS IN NEW COLOR, FEATURING FRESH AND ENIGMATIC AQUAPRASE
Beside the idle summer sea, And in the vacant summer days, Light Love came fluting down the way Where you were loitering with me. Beside the Idle Summer Sea by William Ernest Henley
When you think that you have seen it all, our beautiful and unpredictable planet will surprise you once again.
For centuries, the realm of fine jewelry has been dominated by diamonds and rubies, pearls and sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, topazes, aquamarines and tourmalines. Avant-garde jewelers and designers have also experimented with unconventional materials, from bamboo to cola cans. But the Earth had more to offer.
Hidden deep in the mysteries of Africa, an ancient, precious stone, the color of the Greek Aegean Sea, has been patiently waiting to be discovered. People have stumbled upon it time and time again, thinking it was some kind of chrysoprase or opal, but never cared to look deeper to find its true nature and worth.
That is until around the year 2013, when it fell into the curious hands of a Greek gemstone specialist, explorer and advocate for human rights Yianni Melas. Not satisfied with the response from a Swiss gem lab claiming that it was a chrysoprase, Yianni sought a second opinion from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which proved his hypothesis: it was not a chrysoprase, but a new variety of chalcedony, one that the world has never seen before.
Thus, aquaprase became the first new gemstone discovered in the 21st century, or so the legend goes: ‘aqua’ for the blue water of the Aegean Sea, ‘prase’ – meaning ‘leek’ in ancient Greek – for the green shades of the freshly discovered stone.
This summer, Maison Boucheron introduced aquaprase in their rings, necklaces, earrings and bangles. The new Serpent Bohème collection is a modern take on the iconic Boucheron’s jewelry line, first launched in 1968.
The absolute classic of the Maison, it has glided through decades, changing its ingredients, from diamonds to amethysts, citrines, onyx, mother-of-pearl, turquoise and lapis lazuli, but never changing its free, bohemian spirit. Moving freely through times, tastes and styles, the refined, artistic, light and classy Serpent Bohème collection offers the kind of jewels that can easily be passed through generations, from mother to daughter, and further, and which can be worn by women from any era and of any age.
A serpent – one of the oldest mythological symbols of eternity – has been present in the Maison for more than 130 years. Around 1888, Monsieur Frédéric Boucheron made a snake-shaped necklace for his wife as a gift for their wedding anniversary, a symbol of his love and a talisman to protect her while he traveled.
Today, elegant and contemporary, pure and refined, the new Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème Aquaprase collection arrived in time for the jolly and sunny summer months, when you throw off the shackles of heavy winter clothes and face the lightness and seduction of thin silk, linen, satin and lace.
Aquaprase is an alluring stone. With its beautiful, translucent blue-green and baby blue colors, its cloud-like inclusions, attributed to the presence of chromium, zinc and nickel silicates, its hardness and lustrosity, make it a perfect material for jewelry. Just as important, the team mining aquaprаse try to make the process as sustainable and socially fair as possible, giving up to forty percent of the mine’s profits to the government of the country in which the mine is located, and purchasing all raw materials (not the usual top five percent of the ‘best’ stones). Aquaprase is fully natural and not treated chemically to achieve its wonderful blue color, which is an attractive – almost romantic – point for jewelry aficionados concerned about the ethical and environmental side of the business.
A classic, fresh and joyful summery stone, aquaprase in the new Serpent Bohème collection by Boucheron evokes sea and clouds, a feeling of drowsy tranquility and the peace of warm, careless summer days and long, refreshing evenings.
Wear Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème rings, earrings, necklaces and bangles alone or in a combination on a pinky and the ring finger, coupled with each other or with other favorite pieces of jewelry. The free, bohemian spirit, the smell of the sea, the warm sensation of tickly, clean sand will pave your way towards blissful delight.
NATURE AND ART REUNITED IN A DELICATE AND EXPRESSIVE RING
White Iris by Bliss Carman White Iris was a princess In a kingdom long ago, Mysterious as moonlight And silent as the snow.
A subtle, sensual, powdery scent. Delicate, curly petals, twisting and curving lines. The rich verdure of pointy leaves. Rainbow-colored and white irises – the harbingers of early summer – shimmer on the horizon of high jewelry, brought to life by the infinite imagination and unrivalled mastery of Ilgiz.
In his trademark, colorful style, staying true to genuine artistry, aesthetics and creativity, weaving together the art and science of painting and sculpture, perspective and architecture, Ilgiz reproduces the delicacy and sophistication of the iris flower in a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind ring.
For Ancient Greeks, Iris was a messenger of the gods and goddess of the rainbow, carrying messages from the heavens down to earth on its iridescent arc. The iris also inspired the fleur-de-lis – a decorative symbol of French royalty, appearing on their coat of arms, shields and coins. To this day, purple iris remains a symbol of royalty and wisdom, blue iris is a symbol of hope, while white iris is a symbol of purity.
Whatever symbolism you attach to it, the iris remains the eponym of femininity, exotic grace and mysterious beauty. The fruit of a deep immersion into the secrets of the natural world, the White Iris Ring by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov captures every gradation of color, every nuance of mood, elicited by this dreamy and extravagant flower.
Van Gogh’s irises, painted in oil, light and soft and blue, and Ilgiz’s white irises, petals rendered in intricate enamel surrouning a shimmering opal. Both artists capture the emotion and beauty of this regal flower, immortalizing it for generations to come.
How kind that earth should treasure So beautiful a thing — All mystical enchantment, To stir our hearts in spring!
ONE MORE MASTERPIECE BY THE AVANT-GARDE GERMAN JEWELER TO MAKE YOUR SUMMER EVEN BRIGHTER
They are autographs of angels, penned In Nature’s green-leaved book, in blended tints, Borrowed from rainbows and the sunset skies, And written everywhere - on plain and hill Thank God for flowers! They gladden human hearts; Seraphic breathings part their fragrant lips With whisperings of Heaven.
From the poem Flowers by Albert Laighton
Bright, cheerful gerberas have long been a symbol of purity, while their simplicity, their myriads of radiant colors and gentle caramel aroma lift the spirits and fill the atmosphere with the sunny energy of life.
Legend has it that a beautiful nymph was never left alone by admirers so she transformed herself into a humble yet wonderful wildflower to shake off their unwanted attention.
The floral earrings by fourth-generation German jewelry house Hemmerle resemble orange gerbera daisies, featuring two spessartite garnets, resting in between the petals of anodized aluminum and bronze.
These rich, luscious, orange stones form a perfect duet with the design and mood of the earrings: a symphony to sun, warmth and beauty. Interestingly, the name of gerbera is also associated with Germany: it was named after a German medic and botanist Traugott Gerber.
Look closer at this beautiful flower: you will be surprised to see that its big head is actually composed of hundreds of little flowers. The jewelers of Hemmerle managed to capture this vibrant vivacity and spicy zest, its resemblance to the solar disc, surrounded by petals of light.
Floral earrings by Hemmerle: juicy colors for the lazy summer siesta and a display of warmth for an elegant winter soirée.
VOLUMINOUS, ECLECTIC AND FLUID – JEWELS TO BE WORN AND ADMIRED EVERY DAY
Timeless, lightweight and bohemian, this new high jewelry collection is as impressive and exquisite as the two women behind it.
Messika by Kate Moss is the fruit of close collaboration between a marvelous jewelry designer and a world-famous supermodel, fashion icon and muse – two powerful women with unique and catchy tastes and ideas.
They met on the set of a Messika campaign shot by Australian photographer Chris Colls, when Kate Moss became the face of Messika Paris for the second year in a row.
During the shoot, Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of Messika Jewelry, spotted Kate’s love for diamonds. They shared a common vision of diamond jewelry not as the representation of power and wealth but as a sign of individuality and a staple of distinctive personal style, which could be worn and enjoyed at any time, not just on big occasions: easily and contemporarily, spontaneously and organically.
The heart of the collection is in Kate Moss’s own jewelry box which, at first sight, might seem poles apart from Messika’s designs. Art Deco, hippy 70s, bohemian pieces, an antique Indian snake, a diamond and emerald ring. Different eras, styles and cultures, You might think that Kate’s eclectic and sometimes surprising taste might have daunted Valérie. Not a bit! On the contrary, it ignited the passionate designer, renowned for her disruptive vision of jewelry and for breaking conventions, and prompted her to find a synergetic way of combining Kate’s unique style and love for vintage pieces with Messika’s modern spirit and diamond expertise.
Through constant collaboration and discussion, visits between London and Paris, incessant reviewing of CAD drawings and messaging about what the pieces would look and feel like, the two artists reached perfect harmony – and an astonishing result: the Messika by Kate Moss high jewelry collection.
The lace-shaped Exotic Charm cuff and earrings and the Diamond Wave ring from this new collection are refined and bold, delicate and strong, extraordinary examples of the impeccable craftsmanship and uncompromising quality of Valérie Messika and the free, bohemian spirit of her muse Kate Moss.
THE VISIONARY JEWELRY DESIGNER INVITES US TO MARVEL AT EVERY STAGE OF THE CIRCLE OF LIFE
Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.
The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.
Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist
The one-of-a-kind Green and Purple Iris Petal Earrings in plique-à-jour enamel, green apatite or amethyst, diamonds, platinum, silver and gold, were carefully handmade in Spain, where the sweltering sun gives birth, tenderly nurtures and ruthlessly burns the finest flowers.
The designer of this piece of art is Luz Camino, a Madrid-based Spanish jewelry designer. She’s an amazing lady, radiating warmth, sophistication and soft luminescence. Her very name, translated from Spanish, means ‘light’.
Sensitive and emotional, putting an incredible portion of love and creativity into her work, Luz scoops up from nature all the inspiration she can find. In fact, her pieces are Nature itself, transformed into wearable art through powerful imagination, virtuosic use of gems, precious metals and unconventional materials, innovative techniques and a jeweler’s skills pushed to extremes.
In her designs, Luz employs anything and everything – from luxury stones to tin cans – to elevate the essence and beauty of ordinary objects above the humdrum of everyday existence.
The story behind the Iris Petal Earrings extends far beneath the surface of visible beauty. The idea came to Luz on her way to a meeting when, through a taxi window, she saw a withering iris dropping its petals on the street of Madrid. In its fading, she saw the charm and inspiration to create these delicate earpieces.
The technically challenging and time-consuming art of plique-à-jour enameling infuses the earrings with flickering, vibrant, natural colors. The apatite or amethyst drops are removable, so you can wear them with or without the stone. The green or purple petal gently climbs up your ear, adorning it with a fragile, ephemeral allure, sealed in gems and metals to last many human lifetimes.
THERE IS NO END TO EXUBERANT SURPRISES CREATED BY THE 128 YEAR-OLD JEWELRY HOUSE
Hemmerle’s earrings in spectacular yellow sapphires, zircons, diamonds and bronze bring sunshine back to a world which occasionally lacks certainty, warmth and stability.
The solid shapes, the substantial weight of precious stones, the strong and magnetic yellow hues surrounded by tiny spikes, act as a metaphor for the magnificent celestial body, breathing out its rays of burning-hot energy, or an exotic, temperamental plant, threatening to prick you if you are not sufficiently cautious: look but do not touch!
With this unique creation, Hemmerle, a fourth-generation jewelry house founded in 1893, once again demonstrates dedication to exceptional craftsmanship, unrivalled quality and combinations of innovative materials.
A burst of vivacious and expressive energy for cloudy and sunny days alike. Look, touch, experience and enjoy!
CARTIER REKINDLES THE MAISON’S ALL-TIME FAVORITE, GRACEFUL PREDATOR
In smooth yellow or pink gold with onyx and tsavorite garnets, or with white diamond pavé, onyx and emerald as the magnificent beast’s nose and eyes, these new panther bracelets by Cartier draw on the history of the renowned French jewelry and watch house’s legendary emblem.
Debuting back in 1914 in the form of a wristwatch, the panther became an enduring symbol in the bestiary of the Maison, and has not stopped evolving ever since.
“La Panthère” was the nickname of Parisian style icon Jeanne Toussaint, lover and muse to Louis Cartier and Artistic Director of High Jewelry at the Maison from 1933 to 1970. At that time, a woman holding such a high position was mind-blowing. Known for her ferocious and opinionated temperament, intelligence, extreme femininity and elegance, Jeanne Toussaint was the human embodiment of the strong-willed, svelte animal.
The Cartier panther of today acquires the shape of a curved, flexible gold bangle, remarkable for its clean and supple design, where pure, flowing shapes find perfect balance with modern luxury.
A playful and dangerous animal to elegantly purr on your wrist.
TEARY EYES, SCULLS, BONES AND FLOWERS IN A COLLECTION OF MODERN AND ECLECTIC JEWELRY
Bocca Della Verità Necklace, Sad Sagittarius Earrings, Blue Sorrow Bracelet – the names of these pieces by Samuel François, a Paris-based fashion director of the international fashion magazine Numéro, who has recently presented his very own jewelry collection – speak for themselves.
They sound ominous, melancholic, even sinister. But don’t let them deceive you into thinking that this collection is dark and sad. It is anything but!
Stylistically somewhat reminiscent of Codognato – one the most influential Venetian artists in the history of modern jewelry – it strikes the eye as fresh and individual, with a feminine, light and surrealist twist. Most of these bold pieces are implemented in gold-plated brass and enamel. Each piece is handmade, hence absolutely unique and one-of-a-kind.
A self-taught jewelry designer, Samuel sculpts from wax the models for his pieces, and then works closely with the jewelers who cast them in metal and then enamel them. Today, when skulls, skeletons and other macabre images on t-shirts, shoes and dresses are no longer considered taboo, these visual metaphors for the fragility and transience of life find new meaning in his extravagant and lavish, esoteric and surrealistic creations, spiced up with a dose of zesty humor.
The collection was inspired by Naples, renown for the cult of devotion to skulls which were believed to grant people’s wishes, and – as Samuel points out – by a very particular spot in the city: a bohemian, chic, little hotel, the Albergo del Purgatorio, which looks and feels like a boutique art gallery. I
n Samuel’s vision, eerie motives are rendered in bright, cheerful colors, balancing jolly eclecticism with refined kitschiness and a bit of magic.
The collection is now available for admiration and purchase at Moda Operandi.
MESSENGERS OF THE APPROACHING SUMMER, TAKING ON NEW DIMENSIONS IN GOLD, DIAMONDS AND WOOD
They appear out of thin air. Suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a bright splash of color, carried chaotically by the wind. A butterfly. Moving in unpredictable zigzags, she carries the warmth of the sun on her polychromatic wings.
Silvia Furmanovich gave rein to her imagination in a joyful and sophisticated collection of butterfly earrings, rings and necklaces.
A unique phenomenon in the world of jewelry, in her eloquent masterpieces you can smell the freshness and woodiness of rainforests, hear the breath of the wind under butterflies’ wings; you can almost taste the precious stones melting on your tongue like drops of candy, and touch the geometric lines and soft curvatures, brought to life by Silvia’s creative spirit and by Nature herself.
Balancing on the verge of delicate and powerful, feminine and bold, spiced by the intuitive and sublime combinations of marquetry, precious metals and stones, Silvia Furmanovich’s designs are full of color and life. The designer has travelled the globe with her heart and eyes wide open: ready to absorb and treasure the gems of the natural world, artifacts discovered in the remote parts of the planet, the skills and wisdom of modern and ancient cultures, techniques and artisans.
In many cultures, butterflies have been perceived as symbols of the human soul, of creation and transformation. Aristotle referred to the butterfly as psyche, a word designating human soul in early Greek literature.
Butterflies also represent much-needed hope. In J. R. R. Tolkien’s epic saga Lord of the Rings, the wizard Gandalf the Grey, trapped on top of the tower by his treacherous counterpart, repeatedly whispers the name of the great eagle Gwaihir to a butterfly which then disappears into the storm, and soon the eagle comes to save him.
Today scientists study butterflies as they abandon or change their habitats to look for the visible effects of climate change and learn more about our changing planet.
Yet, Silvia Furmanovich’s interpretation is straightforward: refined, colorful and exuberant, her butterflies are neither an allegory nor the psychoanalytic inkblots of a Rorschach test, intended to evaluate and test you.
Her approach is a whiff of fresh air. No need to guess and overthink. Just experience the pure and luxurious beauty, created by this ingenious designer, in tandem with nature and a seasoned team of jewelers!
Signature marquetry butterflies by Silvia Furmanovich may land on your fingers, ears or neck. Visit Moda Operandi to find your butterfly.